question about engine roll
question about engine roll
I just got done rebuilding my motor again after a nasty catastrophe with oil starvation and noticed installing my modded compressor outlet pipe now the nipple hits the front mount, where it didnt before.. (however it was very close before also) is this cause the motor needs to shift back where it was before? and is there a way to shift the motor back into place without actually driving it and putting load on it? ie.. jacking it up in front or rear etc..
I wanna get the car out and break the new motor in, but dont really wanna run with no boost control.
I wanna get the car out and break the new motor in, but dont really wanna run with no boost control.
I would look at grinding some of the mount away to provide more clearance. From that picture it looks like rubbing will be an issue and eventually break or wear through the tubing or possibly break the metal nipple.
I don't think moving the engine is an option.
I don't think moving the engine is an option.
not the answers i was looking for.
I already stated this fit before.. the motor is in a different spot then normal because I just got done putting everything back in and the car has not been driven yet.. I imagine as soon as I drive it the motor will set itself back into place where it was prior..
I was asking if there was a easy way to shift the motor in place before actually driving the vehicle. I know for a fact once i drive .. the first shift i make the roll stoppers will adjust the engine and that thing will no longer be rubbing.. Like I said it didnt rub last time but it was close, and the position its in, the motor rocks forward and back so it wont ever rub at all.
The intake has plenty of room, pic is just deceiving i suppose. so no one knows a easy way to put preload on the engine and shift it back into its normal resting position before taking it out? not a big deal ill just drive it and check it after i guess. the motors all weird/tight positioned right now because everything was removed then dropped back in, if it cleared last time theres no reason for it not to clear this time.
I guess i just answered my own thread.
I could grind the mount down slightly, but i didnt really wanna jeopardize the mount at all since im pushing lots of tq.. i need all the support i can get especially on the front trans mount/ roll stop.
- stock mani
I already stated this fit before.. the motor is in a different spot then normal because I just got done putting everything back in and the car has not been driven yet.. I imagine as soon as I drive it the motor will set itself back into place where it was prior..
I was asking if there was a easy way to shift the motor in place before actually driving the vehicle. I know for a fact once i drive .. the first shift i make the roll stoppers will adjust the engine and that thing will no longer be rubbing.. Like I said it didnt rub last time but it was close, and the position its in, the motor rocks forward and back so it wont ever rub at all.
The intake has plenty of room, pic is just deceiving i suppose. so no one knows a easy way to put preload on the engine and shift it back into its normal resting position before taking it out? not a big deal ill just drive it and check it after i guess. the motors all weird/tight positioned right now because everything was removed then dropped back in, if it cleared last time theres no reason for it not to clear this time.
I guess i just answered my own thread.
I could grind the mount down slightly, but i didnt really wanna jeopardize the mount at all since im pushing lots of tq.. i need all the support i can get especially on the front trans mount/ roll stop.
- stock mani
The motor will set itself in its place? Ive pulled my motor numerous times & since I have all solid mounts YES, it was a ***** to get all the mounts in...However, everything should line up correctly...You dont need to run the car for it to set itself..At least ive never heard of that...You sure you got everything lined up & tq down??
Last edited by OneCrzyEvo21; Sep 6, 2012 at 03:11 PM.
stuff will change position the first time you shift your vehicle, no motors sit perfect after everythings been taken out and removed.. especially when things are jarred back in.. havent you ever noticed a mount is harder to get in once taken out?
if it fit last time its gonna fit now.. its not magic. sorry for making a stupid thread.
if it fit last time its gonna fit now.. its not magic. sorry for making a stupid thread.
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no mounts were removed.. i guarantee its gonna set itself back ill even take pics after it does it if you guys dont think it wont..
i know why it did it, i shouldnt have even made the thread. its from jarring the motor around its stuck in a position it normally will never see ever again. if it cleared before it will clear now. it was very very close before also.. but the way that mounts shaped and the way the motor reacts to pulls it will never rub.. i did my 655whp runs with it close and examined the rubber vac line and no sign of rub at all. also marked the mount with whiteout and did a pull and no sign of paint on the vac line.. so i know for a fact it never rubbed.. so if it didnt rub before why would it rub now? ill find out when the motor moves itself.. i know the motors gonna move cause last time i took the car out after a rebuild i felt the entire engine roll itself back right before i left the driveway.
the brackets are yes. should i grind it down alittle for reassurance tho? would you do that if it were your car? and how much can i grind it down without jeopardizing the actual bracket strength? like 3-4mm? then i just use regular paint sealer or whatever so it dont rust?
i started to shave down the bracket some.. pain in the ***, got 3mm off in 30minutes. gonna take another 2mm and call it done. it had about 3-4mm clearance before so once the motor moves around where it wants after driving the car i should have a good 10mm clearance which im happy with.
what would you guys paint over the shaved area to protect it from rust or any kind of damage from weather?
what would you guys paint over the shaved area to protect it from rust or any kind of damage from weather?
Black Rustoleum (cheap and easy), Wurth makes a nice flat black paint too (harder to find), or remove the bracket and have it powder-coated (expensive, time consuming, and not necessary).


