im currently rebuilding my motor i have installed new ACL main/rod bearings. After installing the rod bearings, i noticed the crank got harder and harder to rotate.
Is this normal when installing new bearings? I have removed and rechecked my clearance,and everything else. Everything is within limits.
rotation is alittle stiff with 1-3 installed, put 4 in and tighten it down and no rotation.
Im thinking its just the new bearings.

 

If you checked the clearances with it torqued down and it's in spec I would say your fine

 

Yup torqued and everything. i just find it weird i cant move the crank with the new rod bearing installed. It "should" rotate smoothly right.?


*Welp* Looks like i was sent the wrong bearing. ACL 4B1146H (6bolt dsm) not 4B1185(7-bolt/EVO). knew something wasnt right.

 

Alright back to my original problem. Installed my pistons/rods with Apr bolts, and my crank is once again hard to rotate. Rotates smoothly but is REALLY tight. I also installed a Gates Timing belt that barely made it over the cam gears.

Need some Help/Advice on what my problem could be.

I've replaced Main Bearing/Rod bearings (Back to stock now) Billet Rods/Arp rod bolts, Wiseco Pistons.
Checked Piston to Wall Clearance/Ring Clearance (Good)

Im going to remove the timing belt, and see how it rotates without the Gates belt on.
Possible remove the pistons/rods and have them re-checked, re-honed for clearance at the crank. (maybe my measurement was off.)

Anything else to check for??

 

about to remove timing belt, will post my results.

**Update** Belt removed, No change. Must be the Rod Bearing clearance.

 

is this in the car??

 

Yes, it is still in the car

 

Is it possible that you installed the Rod caps to the wrong rod or wrong direction? ( same rods or aftermarket ones ? )
If so, the clearance maybe fine, but there will be an offset so the Rod bearings will catch the crank at the sides.

 

After market rods and pistons.

 

did you marked the rods and their caps before disassembling out of the box?
You HAVE TO install the caps to the right rod, they are not interchangeable.
The new rods were machined including the Cap.

In no way, they will stick at the crank if you use std size bearings ( clevite /Acl/ stock )
with a bit of lube ( or Oil ) used for assembly.

Is there a chance you mixed them ( i.e. all laying together on the table )
Also, the caps should be installed so that the bearing reg pin will be on the same side on most rods.

 

Yeah, i had them all Attached together when i installed them. 1 by 1, and removing 1 at a time. Will switch them around incase they got mixed up from the seller. I believe 1 and 4 are switched now thats it brought to my attention. Installing 2/3 the crank rotated fine. 1/4 it would totally not move. Will get after it tomorrow, and let you know my findings. Ill throw the 6 bolts back in and try to swap the caps.
The bearing reg pins are not all the same direction. Looking up at the motor 4,3,2,1 (bottom Left, Top right, bottom Left, Top right are the pin locations on the rods) Should i take the rods off the pistons and make them all the same direction?

 

i assume you have BC ( Brian Crower ) I-Beam Rods.
If so, the Key notches have to be on the same side of the rod from factory.

I checked that against of an new set which are sitting on my shelf.
Unfortunately, they are not marked as clear as the Crower Rods ( they are stamped with numbers and letter on the rod and cap, so its not possible to mix them by accident and also not the wrong direction

But, they ( BC rods) should have an hard to see Laser engraving on both sides of the rod and cap.
One side is an 5-digit serial number ( Cap and Rod has the same number, at the SAME side).
Other side looks like an Item or order Number which is lasered continuous over rod and cap
If you have them in hand, in an well light area, you can figure the right combi out.
also the direction should be clear then.
All should be having the same direction also ( i prefer the notches at the back of the engine, Rod and caps )

Steffen

 

Sry wasn't clear. I'm running the MAP Billet Rods and Wesco Pistons.
I'm about to go out and check the caps now, and put the acl 6bolt std bearings back in.

 

**Update** Looked at my rods, and dont have any marking of forward/backwards, or which caps match up.
As soon as i removed the #1 cap the crank rotated with no problem.(Although all the others were removed too) But #1 was the first to Pop lose. Installing the ACL Main Bearings now. Thrust bearing closest to #2 is alittle tight, but not showing any major signs of wear. Going back in to install the mains, and rotate the crank.

 

**Update** Rotation is nice and smooth with all the Upgraded Main bearings. Im going to install the rod caps 1 by 1,rotate the crank, and see which one binds. Then figure out what i need to do from there.