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Gymkahna build?

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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 11:38 PM
  #16  
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From: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
You can have fun Gymkahna'ing by yourself since they don't have a series in the states...... I would say build the car for autoX
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Old Dec 24, 2010 | 10:04 AM
  #17  
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I think the wide, fairly long EVO is just a bad choice for Gymkhana. I think building an auto-x car with the flexibility to do such courses reasonably well would be possible though, and it could be a lot of fun.

You need to go to a "handbrake" setup...not "e-brake." Difference being a handbrake is hydraulic and provides much stronger lockup. You are right, you'll need ACD for it to have the effect you want. The idea of a hand bake almost makes me want ACD. That would be a lot of fun on the tight auto-X courses.
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Old Dec 24, 2010 | 10:40 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by ODUB
you've got this alllllll wrong

as for the motor, yes, something with a lot of low end and quick spool would be ideal. you'd basically need to build something like an autocross car, but it would most likely need to be setup looser in the rear. it would all depend on the particular course though.

you would definitely need a rear diff upgrade. the TRE MAXXX lock would be a good one to look at, along with the Gruppe-S ACD flash (if you had one). Since you don't, diff alone would be good.

as for your statement about the ACD and E brake, that makes no sense. you can still use your E brake without an ACD.

As for the tires, you still want grip. Hard tires will do nothing but make you understeer. the alignment setup would likely be different though. run more negative camber up front to get the car to rotate. you still want the stickiest tires you can get. possibly running a wider tire up front as well. you want to maximize front end grip, not minimize rear grip.

as for the suspension, yes, stiffer than stock. how stiff would depend on tire compound, and the rest of your setup. stiffer is not always better. If you could upgrade to an ACD, I would. even if you don't go ACD, it would still be a good idea to upgrade to some sort of LSD up front, and like i said before, upgrade to the TRE rear diff for better rotation, and power oversteer.
you can also get the rear of the car to rotate with a Big super stiff swaybar in the rear. I however would not go messing with different size tires in the front and rear...you dont want to trach the t-case.
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Old Dec 24, 2010 | 10:58 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by BURNALL_4
you can also get the rear of the car to rotate with a Big super stiff swaybar in the rear. I however would not go messing with different size tires in the front and rear...you dont want to trach the t-case.
the big rear bar theory has been discussed a lot in the forums. that should be the last resort. there are other ways to tune the suspension to make the car rotate, and as for mods, the #1 best one you can do for turning is upgrading the rear diff. as for the mismatched wheel/tire sizes, it's done by a lot of guys on this board with zero issues as long as the rolling diameter is about the same, and it's not a daily driven setup. for race day it's perfectly fine.
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 08:56 PM
  #20  
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FWIW, I'm on a heavily rear biased spring package (14k/10k) and have the Shep rear diff, my car still doesn't rotate under power when on sticky rubber. On 235 street rubber, I bet it would be capable of these tight corners though. It would need a handbrake to initiate the slide, but under power on less sticky tires, my car feels like it is RWD with attitude. Lots of fun in the rain as the car is constantly sideways, but can accelerate well still and never feels uncontrollable.
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 01:23 PM
  #21  
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From: SoDak
I think the only mods you need are a monster flat bill and a ken block dc hoodie.
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 01:29 PM
  #22  
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There is so much misinformation in this thread that it should just be deleted. SMH
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 03:05 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by LI Pinky
There is so much misinformation in this thread that it should just be deleted. SMH
^^^
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