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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 08:02 AM
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4G64 build

Im in auto school and getting ready to build a motor for class. My daily driver is an 03 evo 8, and I also have a built supra. I really want to build a motor for my evo something really responsive. I was thinking about building a 4g64 with my current head. I think im going to go with a rebuild kit from AMS. I would like to keep it under 5k if i can. Mods are in my sig i know i need injectors and a fuel regulator. Was thinking about getting an FP red or BBK full on stock manifold. I want around 400 awhp on 93 pump no meth. What do you guys think i need and can it be done for under 5k. I will be selling my short block with like 65k runs strong.
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 08:19 AM
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It can be done way under 5k if you shop around. I know a lot of people feel its necessary to run an aftermarket crank with it, but for only 400hp the stock 2.4l crank is plenty strong.

Granted it was for a dsm where things are cheaper, but I built 2.4l for under 2k. Just gotta be smart and realize your goals. Over building can lead to excess money spent or a not very streetable car. In my case, I knew I would never get over 500hp and realistically 400-450 was the max because it was a purpose built autocross motor. I built to those specs and stuck with my plan.
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 09:24 AM
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i have a 2.4 evo lol you can build a std 2.4 for around 3200 pending parts selection if you doing a LR version expect to spend 5k or more. the stock oem 100mm crank is perfect no need to get anything else unless your attempting to build a lightweight assembly. you will need to get

new water pump
new pullies(not required but i would)
Fluidampr(not required but protect your investment)
Custom 87mm headgasket. AMS custom or Power enterprise
Adjustable camgear
4g64 timing belt(can use 4g63 belt if stretched)
Balance shaft eliminator kit(get oem version just fine)
new freeze plugs
waterpump adapter plate
100mm crank (get from mike@awd 500 for a set)
4g64 block (get from mike@awd 500 for a set)

then of course your choice of piston rods bearings thrust washers

Last edited by RockmanX; Dec 29, 2010 at 09:27 AM.
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 10:03 AM
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My personal preference, if this will stay a street car I would keep the balance shafts in. The do help quite a bit with engine vibrations felt through the steering wheel. I wish I didn't remove them on my build.
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
My personal preference, if this will stay a street car I would keep the balance shafts in. The do help quite a bit with engine vibrations felt through the steering wheel. I wish I didn't remove them on my build.
If you want a luxury car buy a BMW lol you want more power ditch the Balance shafts! The Evo is not built around comfort But again it's a personal preferance
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by navysandsquid
If you want a luxury car buy a BMW lol you want more power ditch the Balance shafts! The Evo is not built around comfort But again it's a personal preferance
We all have our uses for what ever we buy. I went over the top on my DSMs and bought the evo for something nicer and newer. Balance shafts come from the factory and their isn't a huge gain removing them other than making our cars feel cheaper.
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
We all have our uses for what ever we buy. I went over the top on my DSMs and bought the evo for something nicer and newer. Balance shafts come from the factory and their isn't a huge gain removing them other than making our cars feel cheaper.
Yeah this will be my winter beater, daily driver what ever you want to call it. I think i will leave the balance shafts in not 100% sure on that yet. Im also staying standard rod lenght I don't need a high reving engine, just a responsive street light warrior lol.
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 01:36 PM
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then a std 2.4 will do you nicely
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
We all have our uses for what ever we buy. I went over the top on my DSMs and bought the evo for something nicer and newer. Balance shafts come from the factory and their isn't a huge gain removing them other than making our cars feel cheaper.
I agree with you. I would want a stronger Evo without turning it in to a rattle trap. Leaving BS in will not make it into a luxury car. I have a set of mild cams, no BS, and raised idle in my DSM and the shaking and rattles are tolerable, but only because I am in it by myself most of the time.
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by jrlewis0550
Yeah this will be my winter beater, daily driver what ever you want to call it. I think i will leave the balance shafts in not 100% sure on that yet. Im also staying standard rod lenght I don't need a high reving engine, just a responsive street light warrior lol.
In your case Id def recommend leaving the BS. The older you get, the less tolerable the vibs become on a daily basis.

A 2.4l and a small-medium turbo are really fun. My talon on pump just did 330hp and 390tq (22psi spike, 21 to redline). Peak torque was at something like 3300rpms, and was a perfectly flat taper all the way to 7k. For a street car, it was perfect. Of course it makes more on E85, but for pump its a blast considering turbo is only an Evo III 16g.

Id really love a 2.4l and CBRD BBK-full. That would make for a great street setup.
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
In your case Id def recommend leaving the BS. The older you get, the less tolerable the vibs become on a daily basis.

A 2.4l and a small-medium turbo are really fun. My talon on pump just did 330hp and 390tq (22psi spike, 21 to redline). Peak torque was at something like 3300rpms, and was a perfectly flat taper all the way to 7k. For a street car, it was perfect. Of course it makes more on E85, but for pump its a blast considering turbo is only an Evo III 16g.

Id really love a 2.4l and CBRD BBK-full. That would make for a great street setup.
So what do you guys think, im leaning towards an FP red but i really like what i see with the BBK so many options.
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by jrlewis0550
So what do you guys think, im leaning towards an FP red but i really like what i see with the BBK so many options.
haa if you forget the hta green on top of that if you want the real spool the new HKS is BB and is noted to spin faster then stock but dont expect to get over 500whp with these spool busting turbos. the HTA green can do it on e85 and aggressive tuning
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 02:53 PM
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My guess is a BBK-B or HTA-Green would spool as fast or faster than stock and still get you up to your HP goals on pump gas.
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
My guess is a BBK-B or HTA-Green would spool as fast or faster than stock and still get you up to your HP goals on pump gas.
Yeah I was thinking green at first, but then I was worried it would have to be pushed really hard to make 400. I want to run a conservative tune on pump gas. Not sure how much PSI I can safely run?
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 04:05 PM
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a new hta green is not even being close to pushed at 400whp now once you get to 500whp on e85 you about there highest i have seen was 517whp 500tq out the hta green on e85 on stock motor. yes the guy blew his motor he knew the risk on stocker motor but if you get it built you will be fine there
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