Ok ... I'm assuming no direct shorts. How did you test for shorts other than visually on the wires?

The alternator (and again more specifically the voltage regulator) can be checked. What I'm not hearing from you is 'if' you've checked, how you've checked, and what we can really offer you. In fact that's a check you can do with a DC voltmeter, and I'd report your findings. Yes you could be getting some weird alternator something happening under load, but most of the time you can see if the alternator is being funky just by starting it up.

BTW from my understanding the IAC (Idle Air Control) Motor is a DC stepper where I think it gets 12V on one pin, Gnd on another, and I think it might have four others. One for step left, one for step right, and the others might be the full open and full closed stops. Now I'm just guessing.

The ECU controls the IAC directly.

My suggestion is 'if' you think everything is ok, I'd voltmeter the IAC starting with Power and Gnd, and see what you find.

~j.

 

the car got examined and checked twice by a 20 yr auto electrician who specializes in only electrical he told me

there r no shorts in the vehicle all the wiring seems to be in place

you need a new front ecu relay and a back window defroster relay

i said how come .. he told me your headlights, in cabin light, windshield wipers and awd lights dont work due to the front ecu relay

he told me the aftermarket alternator is holding up but he doesnt think for long !

so i ordered the Front ECU Relay, Back Window Defroster Relay and OEM Alternator

since ur telling me the IAC is controlled by the Front ECU type aq then ima see if once i change the alternator and put the relays if everything will be ok

i never had electrical issues with my vehicle only time i did was when a garmin wire was hard wired to my kick panel ecu and i ended up changing the drivier side main ecu (1100 from Mitsu :X)

so now hopefully will be ok

any suggestions from neone ?

 

and the alternator was acting funky when i started it up and when the rpms were rising i turned the car off

waited about 10 min tried to turn it on again and it DID NOT HOLD THE ELECTRICITY !

the car would crank and all that but wud not turn on .. so as soon as i get my parts ima have a long day workin at home loll

 

Bump !!

 

bump bump bump

 

Sorry its still not working.

Ok I keep getting the little droplets of information, and your story is very poorly written.

I keep hearing "that we've checked stuff" but you've not offered any more data, other than "some reputable person checked it." I'm sorry ... if you can't be more specific, and aren't willing to pull out a voltmeter and start to test things, your guess is as good as mine at this point.

Let's go back to your original post:

Your story (as far as I can follow), followed by my questions and suggestions are (capitalized text for emphasis):

1 - ECU fried. Did you get a new ECU, and it somewhat works? Is that why you mention the car is running at some point right now?

2 - Shorts have been fixed. Let's assume YES for now.

3 - Relays ordered. Have the relays arrived? Have the relays been put in? What relays do you still need to come in? (Please be specific here. If they're already there, and you think they are good, just mention a quick name.)
a - Forward Control Box - Controlled by the ECU. ECU clicks it on, power passes to this box.
b - Others ???

4 - 1st OEM Alternator ordered. Was the shipment a non-OEM alternator? I think its pretty obvious you have a supposed non-OEM alternator in right now? You've now just ordered an OEM alternator?
a - WHAT VOLTAGE MONITORING TESTS HAVE YOU DONE WITH THE ALTERNATOR THAT'S ALREADY IN THE CAR? A super easy first test is simply start the car as is, and put a voltmeter on it and give us the voltage. A better test is from my first post, in that you unplug the alternator to pull it out of the loop, and do a battery only test. (With charger to keep the battery and car fed.)

Let me clarify something else regarding an alternator. Alternators don't PUMP (or force) more AMPERAGE into a car. Alternators simply put out a static voltage, and the car draws the AMPERAGE it needs by upping or downing its resistance.

IF THERE is a weak or hard short, the current goes way up (because the resistance is way down), and by virtue of the max power the alternator can put out, the voltage will start to sag.
If there is any PUMP going on due to the alternator (bad voltage regulator), it will be shown through a voltage increase.
Again 12 to 14 ish Volts are ok on an alternator, and its super easy to test. Just go do the test.

5 - Your rpms kept "climbing and climbing" so you shut off the car, and "no go?" The "no go" doesn't explain much.
Fortunately you said this:

My first guess here is the battery is still holding enough of a charge to crank the car, but for some reason the voltage is low forcing the ECU to not really boot up (it is a computer after all) and do anything. This is ONLY a guess, and is something I would test for.

What do you do after all of this? Hook up a battery charger?

So ... assuming that your alternator is not working at all, you have some battery juice to start the car, and the alternator is sagging in voltage because of:

1 - A short still or
2 - A bad alternator that isn't putting out any electricity at all.

Sagging voltage will force the computer to play games. However the Evo ECU is pretty good about staying alive down into the 9V range. I could be wrong though.

Also if the ECU is telling the IAC wrong things (or it may be that if the ECU sees sagging voltage, it may idle "UP" in order to get the alternator to produce more power.)

Again just poking a voltmeter on the battery terminals during these things happenings would tell is a TON of information.

Enjoy,

~j.

P.S. Just to build your confidence a little as you seem to be putting out qualifications ... I have 10 years in a space instrumentation development company as an Electrical Engineer. Currently I have been working on computer interfacing to a small satellite power system. I take power and grounding very seriously.
Before that I have 10 years of computer technician experience. Finally I've been working on cars solo for about 20 years now and have diagnosed probably a couple dozen electrical problems including cranky and finicky alternators. Yes I still believe I should be able to split an alternator and replace the voltage regulators, but I digress.

~j.

 

ok so i drive a 2006 mitsubishi evolution 9 rs with 64,000 miles on it i have run into a few electrical issues but before that let me explain wat is done to my car !

on my car i recently at 63,000 miles did my build with the following parts
this setup ONLY HAS 1,000 MILES ON IT !!

fp red turbo
3.5 ETS FMIC
ETS IC Piping
Invidia 02 housing
precision 880cc injectors
kelford 272s
supertech dual valvespring kit
arp headstuds
tial alpha Q BOV
stock block
3 inch turbo back exhaust
255lph fuel pump
buschur big intake filter
fp intake

now after the car was done i ran into an electrical issue i had a short caused my a TOMTOM navigation wire hard wired into my car which then ended up melting badly and causing a shot

then the shop said that the alternator isnt pushing out enough, so i changed the alternator at the shop and they changed the OEM one wit a aftermarket .. one month later my battery popped and the alternator died out on me so i replaced that ****ty aftermarket one with a OEM one

so i took my car away from the shop bc they had no idea wat they were doing with electrical and i didnt want to further hurt my car !

took my car to a auto electrician specialists ! he checked the whole wiring system for me and found out that i had NO SHORTS in the vehicle and that my ECM was FRIED and so was the front ecu relay

so i bought the front ecu a ECM and had it tuned by espec again and plugged the new ecm in my car ... the car ran fine for a day then the following electronics cudnt turn on !

headlights
AWD lights
windshield wipers
corner lights
interior light
ac, back window defroster and incabin air control wudnt turn on as well

then a day later the idle wud rise to 2,000 rpms even when the car was warmed up

i realize the rising idle cud be IAC and i am in the proccess of trying to get one used in good shape

wat cud be the problem for the other issues i have where none of the electrical units will operate even after i changed the front ecu relay ??

i really need some help here bc i dont want to damage my car especially when i put so much money and time into it

i started to think cud it be the parts i put in ?? but EVERYONE uses this setup and it runs fine for years so please if neone has ne help or tips PLEASE SHARE !!


another question i had was shud i bring the car to mitsubishi for them to diagnose it ?? or will they not work on my car bc of all the parts i have ??

bump it to help me enjoy my car

 

make sure u check ur fuses

 

its not your parts....my guess is either some electrical connectors are not plugged in, or you might have some wiring thats not making a connection, but start first check each relay under hood and under drivers side dash, test each with a test light make sure each is getting power to it...that would be the first thing to start with...and then report back
good luck

 

as for the high setting idle ... iac ??

 

thanks for the help homie i used to live in riverside banging bells all day in corona loll

 

what relay and/or relays power the following components listed ??

headlights
AWD lights
windshield wipers
corner lights
interior light
AC
back window defroster
incabin air control

because none of these components turn on at all !


any help wud be great !

 

Make sure you dont have this problem: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...razy-help.html

 

yup riverside up in the hizzy haha, yea i actually in riverside by moreno valley, but back on track, the high idle could be iac related, although i would double check by swappin with a fellow evo owner since the part should take under 20 mins to swap since its under the tb.. i would say since your shortin **** out start on the ground side of your battery and follow the cables lookin for any type of melted and or shorted out wiring, if all checks good, then do the same with the alternator and cables, if they check out then next step would be to have the battery and alternator tested with a charging system checker that most shops have, hook it up to battery, do the test, your battery in good shape should be holdin slightly above 13 volts 13.2-13.6 means in good condition, if that tests good run alternator test to make sure its holding the charge when all the loads are on. If those all check out well, then I would look into starting to check around where your tom tom was hard wired into your vehicle if thats what melted and caused the mess in the first place i would look around for any grounded out wiring, etc... so check those since i gave u a few to check and report back ill help a fellow IE guy out ya heard haha

 

I know stuff like headlights have relays as well, I would look into those too.