Bro more then 90% of failures are the rods rod bolts hold up most of the time. I would say that its save to say if u change the rods out the block will hold up to a heck of a lot more torque

 

The last time I went wot in 5th gear I was still on the stock turbo over 2years ago. My motor actually failed during around 20% throttle believe it or not.

 

Also on a side note guys...never cruise @ 60mph or lower in 5th gear....Always try to have at least 3500rpm or higher before you go into 5th. Our blocks hate being lugged around....plus it's slightly knocking when your cruising below 3000rpm in 5th......i still live by this rule even though i have built bottom end.

BOOST ON Guys!!!!

 

Wow sucks bro was this with the.big.Turbo also what psi?


Does this rule apply for big t3 turbos too??the big turbos don't see spool till 4,000 rpms of so.

 

I think as long as your above 60mph and your already rowing thru the gears it would be all good. You never want to really do wot pull in 5th anyway....like Ryu said!

 

I have a 6spd but I guess the rules are the same ..thanks for the tip

 

It doesn't bother me in the least. This motor has survived long enough for me to make all of my accomplishments in my signature. After holding strong on my 9second pass it owed me nothing. I was on an HTA82 @38psi peak. According to VDR dynojet settings 618whp 478wtq. Timing was kept conservative to keep the stock block alive as long as possible. There's going to be much more out of this setup once my built motor is in the car courtesy of MAP with a generous sponsorship offer.

 

Power doesn't come cheap......you want long HWY pulls..or tuned for over 400 Ft-lbs (safe(ish) zone) Put a set of rods and pistons in it....done and done. To me its pointless to go into a motor just to replace rod bolts....but thats just moi

 

has anyone ever tried a stock bottom end with arp 2000 rod bolts, balance shaft delete, and softer bearings like an acl? just curious as to how much more abuse it could take.. if any..

 

This is true even for completely stock cars?

 

The majority of failures are rods snapping in half as apposed to the rod bolts failing. Not to mention you run the risk of screwing up the rod bearing clearances as well since the ARP's have a different torque spec in comparison to the factory rod bolts.

 

Couldn't agree with you more..hence the posting. I wanted to know exectly what was failing and why--. If the failures are easily preventable, I want to look at that option first. A bearing problem is far different then a failing rod bolt thats different from a rod failing. This may set a few folks off, but I dont like to just throw money at something unless I am sure its going to address the problem. Granted, it you replace the pistons , rods and rod bolts--your covered. But if the culprit are the rod bolts why got to the extra expense. Thats why I am asking--, I want to know the weak link.

 

rods not rod bolts big dawg

 

Gottcha! just needed to get there-

 

Yeah the stock rods are not strong enough, not worth the risk off damaging a perfectly good Block...

If you cant afford a full build, then at least do Drop-in Rods and Pistons...

Even if you go for a budget Eagle-Supertech drop-in combo your still much much better off than being at the mercy of the stock RODS...


Good Luck, and Be Safe... A stitch in time save nine...



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