Here is a short video of it.



Dropping the pan tonight.

The CEL was not on before. Came on after I did the comp test. It's the Cam posetioning sensor. I believe I unplugged the wrong plug when I did the comp test. Will reset the ECU.

 

You might get flamed for that question as there are quite a few threads on here about it. Just look for a tester online. It is usually an IC coupler with a plastic disk in the end that you can inflate with a bike pump or compressor. You can hook it to your turbo intake or disconnect your lower IC pipe from your turbo and put it on the IC pipe. Fill it up to at least 10-15psi or so and listen. Of course your coupler will need to be the right size to fit A) your turbo inlet or B) your lower IC pipe.

Some people will say make one yourself, but I don't trust my half *** jerry rigged crap.

If you are on the stock ECU and have a bad boost leak it will run like poop as the car thinks it is getting a certain amount of air and it is all escaping out of your leak. This means you will run very rich. Also you will hear your turbo spool up with hardly getting on it as there is a lot less backpressure on it.


As long as you put the plugs back in you should be fine. The cam position sensor only matters if you are trying to start the car as it tells your ecu where your cams are (I am guessing for when to fire fuel injectors or ignition?). If you were just cranking it for a compression test you are fine. The only harm you did was spray fuel in your cylinders. You are suppose to pull the plug to your injectors for compression tests (located by your dip stick).

 

I found a great write up on it, but I guess I got the wrong plug.
I'll search some how toes on the leak.

Thank you sir.

 

Getting the pan is going to be a *****. Intercooler piping, and something else is on the way. With a little shield on that too.

 

Double post.

 

Looks like it spun a bearing....
Sorry to say it bro .

Thats what usually happens when the oil pressure light comes on .

Does it crank up when starting any differently ?
Like slower ect .

 

Possibly one of the main bearings..

 

when i found out i spun a bearing, kevin explained to me why the car would idle low and oil light would flicker. pull off the filter and see whats in it, easiest way to do it.

 

Sometimes the filter doesnt catch anything ....

 

when you spin a bearing you know it though.. the engine creates rod knock and its very loud trust me. i dont see any gold shavings in that oil.. if he spun a bearing and was driving with it there would be so much gold bearing shavings in that oil it would look like someone sprinkled glitter in the oil..

It sounds 100% like a boost leak, why the oil lights going on is beyond me though.. maybe the sensor is faulty?


then again, that oil doesnt look clean either. can you take a close up picture of those shavings? if they are gold / copper looking
then maybe it is early signs of a bad bearing.

 

That is why i said Main bearings . If the mail bearings go out it will not make noise like the the rod bearing would .
I have seen many motors spin main bearings and that is usually what the oil would look like . For some reason when the main bearings spin the shavings are alot smaller than a rod bearing .

 

hope u get that fix man

 

that happen to me on the highway....the boost tube came off....i thought i blew something. check your clamps

 

oh ok. sorry I didnt read you said main bearings.

So depending how long he would drive on it like that he will eventually have bad crankwalk and chew up the crank angle sensor right?

So the main bearings will never create a knock noise like the rods do no matter how long you drive on them? or will they eventually knock as well?

I wonder why my car didnt turn on the damn oil light when i was over 3 quarts+ low. damn car!

 

just watched your video.....thats no boost leak...idk what to tell ya