Ok here is the question. I am building a 4G63 from a Evo 5 lancer and the time has come to make a choice. Should I put the balance shafts in or leave them out. I will be using a HKS GT3037s turbo with forged pistons and rods. Also HKS 272 cams.

The car is a weekend cruiser and makes it to the race track about once a month. I mean circuit racing not 1/4 mile.

 

I always took them out on 89-94 eclipse, talon, and lazers that I have owned. It will free up oil pressure, torque and hp. Take'em out.

 

Doesn't the motor have to get pulled out in order to reach it though... I would love for there to be a way to do this mod without having to remove the plant...

 

Mine are coming out when I get my rods and pistons.

 

I've seen threads on this before and I have to ask...if they are such power robbers and hamper oil pressure, WHY did Mitsu put them there in the first place?

Could those of you in the know that are going to such a "radical" (you're removing an integral part of the engine) procedure come forth and put in the PROs and CONs of this?

My monkey sense tells me that they are there to protect the engine for longevity's sake, things that spin more smoothly tend to stay spinning for a longer time.

I can see from Evo 4 that he's going pretty dramatic with forged goodies and I would assume he's having everything blue printed and balanced, including crank - is this procedure for track based (read - non daily driven) Evos?

 

Usually this stuff is removed for a built motorsport engine. It would be a good idea to ask a guy like David Buschur who has been building 4g63's for a while what his take is for the intended use.

 

I know a common con is that one will feel a lil more of a tremble in the interior of the car... But a clean way to pick up some good power...

A must for the future, if it was only easier to reach...

 

I've heard of plenty engine failures due to failed balance shaft bearings and broken balance belts but none due to properly removed balance shafts (i.e. the oil holes are blocked off).

Common consensus is that the balance shafts are there only for driver/passenger comfort. DSM guys have been removing them for years.

I personally wouldn't try to remove them with the engine in the car.

 

I've removed them from my GSX, and I'll remove them from the Evo when the time comes.

It can be done with the engine in the car, that's how I did it on the gsx, not sure if the evo will clear. The biggest clearance problem is dropping the engine far enough that the rear (front in the case of DSM's) shaft will slide out. The biggest hassle is getting the rear (again, front in the case of DSM's) bearing rotated so that the oil holes definately do not line up.

A lift would have helped out tremendously. In that case it would have been much easier to complete the process.

 

The balance shafts spin at 2x the speed of the engine. They are a liability. Eliminate them, especially if the engine is already out of the car. But do it right.

Call up Conicelli (www.partznet.com) and ask for Josh. Tell him what you are doing, and he should get you the right parts. I believe that the Mirage stubby oil pump shaft should work fine. And I can't imagine that they have changed the size of the bearing you have to block off. And the hole in the front case is probably the same size as on the Eclipse and Mirage.

For more info, go here:
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/balance-shafts.html

 

I don't know about mitsu engines specifically, have some general knowledge.
They are there for creature comforts only.
The fact that they spin twice the crank speed can make them a reliability issue,
especially if you are modding your engine and raising red line.
That is usually why they are removed.
Evo are not your cushy ride anyway; I imagine removing the shafts will be noticed much.

 

I have them out of my car - I recomend taking them out

www.pruvenperformance.com has the removal kits in stock - I would recomend ONLY taking them out with the engine removed and taken apart

 

Road Race Engineering sells a balance shaft removal kit also. I'd recomend them or Buschur to get your information from.

 

I wouldn't recommend the RRE kit. Their stubby oil pump shaft doesn't have an oil groove on it.

Get the real one from Mitsubishi. Any parts dept should be able to get it, but Conicelli knows their stuff, will get it to you fast, and for less.

 

I bought the kit from RRE, but haven't put it in yet... while I agree with you that the factory parts are better, have you ever heard of any problems caused from not having the groove?