So I know I have wanted to see some pics of certain things, how they're routed, etc so I'm posting LOTS of pics and I have a few questions and want to get some answers on certain things. Enjoy and for all wondering the motor had around 6k miles on it.

Pic #12 What makes the exhaust valves white? the one is white and the other isn't. I know it's something to do with the heat but some are and some aren't. The one next to the white one had a broken rocker so therefore not opening and forcing more exhaust volume through that one valve and soaking up the heat of 2x the exhaust rather than the one and making it whiter than the others?

Pic #13 One intake valve is super clean and the other is gunky, this is the same for all 4 intake runners. Not sure if it's coincidence but cylinders #1 and #4 the valves closest towards the middle are clean and the outer ones are the gunked up ones, and cylinder #2 and #3 both have the same pattern (but opposite of 1 and 4)...the clean valve is on the outer ones and the gunked up ones are the inner ones. I figured it was because the injectors were angled more towards one valve and the fuel spray had something to do with it but all the injectors and bungs are straight and parallel. Or something with how the air flows in but everything looks the same and all the runners are straight. Any idea?

Pic #21 (and many others) the intake runners are pretty wet with oil (#2 much more than the others).. it's coming from where the pcv passage goes into the intake runners. Why would one have more than the other? and is this a normal amount, seems like alot? If I put in a catch can will this stop? the #2 runner has a good amount and you can see how much darker its making the valves for that cyl. and even the cylinder wall has a thick layer of oil on it compared to #3

Pic #22 The solenoid on the golden bracket attached to the side of the manifold is for evap? egr? I found the outlet line was gone entirely (same vacuum source as my boost gauge) so I had a vacuum reading of 7in, once bypassed I got a normal 17in but need to know if I should just cap it off or put it back how it should be.

 

That solenoid is your FPR. Do you run an aftermarket one? If not hook a line to it. Its not safe to run without it

 

you're joking right?

 

?

My setup just has manifold vacuum goin directly to the fuel pressure regulator

 

yes that is ok.
what he said is not right.

 

What does that fpr solenoid do? adjust the fuel pressure per load or boost or something? It had vacuum going into it but no line coming out of it, so I can totally bypass the solenoid all together right?

 

The fuel pressure regulator maintains the fuel pressure at "X" pounds above whatever the manifold pressure is, vacuum or boost. The fuel pressure regulator solenoid opens during hot start conditions venting the fuel pressure regulator to atmosphere. This increases fuel pressure to above normal to clear any vapor lock conditions.

If you don't mind the occasional hot start problem, the solenoid may be bypassed.

 

The FPS also helps with cold starts by closing preventing vacuum from pulling the fuel pressure down. If you live in a cold environment or run E85 it can make a pretty big different.

When I lived in colorado I fixed a buddies cold start issues just by putting the FPS back in.

 

Good to know, never seen that before. I live in Jersey with pretty cold winters and it has started fine and the fprs has been "inop" and leaking vacuum/boost this whole time..Now I know why at first start it held normal vacuum for a second then it dropped instantly down to the 7in with the leak. Wish I knew who the idiot that partially hooked it up was.