Hi guys,

I have a JDM Evo8 GSR and it is my weekend car. I normally join my friends on long drives (about 100 miles) with mixtures of twisty roads and open highways.

I'm still running on stock internals and have the following mods currently:
1. HKS suction kit with CAI
2. Trust-TI full exhaust
3. HKS R-type FMIC
4. Aluminium radiator
5. HKS fuel pump but stock injectors
6. Iridium plugs (9)
7. ECU reflashed and dynoed at 350bhp (about 260whp).

I am looking for good response with a slightly better top end on highways (hitting 137.5mph due to stock turbo + too much downforce from my gt-wing).

I am looking at GT30R with GSC S1 cams but am unsure on what to choose for my engine internals for longevity purposes. The weather in my country is hot and humid so water and oil temp is a dicey issue after prolonged full throttle on highways.

Piston choices available in my country are JE, JUN, CP, HKS and Tomei, although the latter few are stroker kit options (not a fan of stroker kits and can't really afford them).

1. What would you recommend for my engine internals to have reliable 350whp (about 500bhp)?

2. Are 700cc injectors sufficient for fueling?

3. Would I require larger aftermarket rotors or same sized aftermarket rotors (about 320mm think)? Stock rotors have a tendency to warp, due to the heat that is compounded by the hot tropical weather in my country. I am on stock rotors and calipers with aftermarket pads now. 500 C (F) and 300 C (R).

4. Clutch options are HKS twin plate, Ogura Racing twin plate, OS Giken twin plate and ACT twin plate. I was previously on HKS twin plate but the pressure plate is worn out so I swapped back to stock clutch.

5. Is ECU reflash sufficient to get the right tuning or do I have to get an aftermarket ecu? If I have to change/add piggy-back, is power fc sufficient or do I have to go for F-Con V Pro?

6. Any other considerations that I had missed out?

Appreciate your feedback as I'm a newbie in 4G63T tuning

P/S - Most of the items available in the USA are not available in my country, Malaysia. For instance, FP turbos are not available here unless I travel to a neighbouring country.

 

well i guess ill be the first to chime in there to answer your questions:
#1) if all your trying to do is make 350whp then if your running high boost look into some ARP headstuds for reliability.
#2) 700cc wont cut it, if u ever plan to go e85 if available or anything youll want 1000cc minimum, but if your on pump gas or plan to go race gas 880ccs will be fine, and your idcs will be low enough even at 400 hp to not worry about it.
#3)If your lookin to keep your brakes stoppin you right, look into upgraded ss lines, good brake fluid, good brake pads which you have im assuming, and maybe some slotted front rotors, most braking is about 70% front.
#4) if your gonna be at around 350 whp, try out ACT, im running it act hdss prolite flywheel. im at 385 whp no problems.
#5)You dont need a piggy back the stock ecu works just fine. If no good tuners available in your area, look into some vendors on here for email tunes, all youll have to do is buy a laptop and a tactrix cable.
#6)if you want better then stock top end, id say those gsc s1s will help, but look into either a cbrd bbk series, or even an hta green...
either can get ya close to 400 hp tuned without breakin the bank, there about half the cost for a 30r for almost the same amount of power.
im sure you can have the parts you need shipped to your door.
good luck

 

tks buddy.

btw, would i need a new head gasket and also a MAP sensor to replace my MAF sensor?

 

your map sensor and maf sensor are two different sensors, your maf sensor is on the intake pipe to help determine the amount of air coming in and the temp of it for the ecu to help determine proper a/f at that time, Your map sensor has to do with measuring the volume of pressure coming into the intake manifold as another sensor the ecu uses to help determine the proper a/f among other things. See with arps and replacing head gasket its a crap shoot it really is, u either pay more to pull the head and replace it, or you can do the 1x1 method, which can work seen it work, but can also have a stud loosen up and then you start pissin coolant pass the head gasket. So depending on how much boost you wanna run eventually you can look into like an omni 4 bar map sensor or somethin like that, have the values put into the ecu, then you can have boost logged through the ecu. As far as you maf sensor keep it on very few actually run more power where the maf sensor becomes a restriction then you need to switch to speed density, which opens up more problems then it cures, elevation temp etc....but sorry im rantin haha.....if you got any more questions shoot me a pm.

 

tks for clarifying