May sound stupid but you did remember to bleed all eight (8) bleeders as well, correct?

Edit: FWIW a low level fluid would not hurt the master. They sit dry on the shelf before they are installed, just takes a lot more fluid and pumping to get the air out. Might have to bleed the clutch line too if it was too low.

 

Yep, all 8 valves were bled. I had 2 anti-squeal shims on each pad (one oem and one that came with the pads). I removed the one that came with the pads to give them a bit more room to move. I suspect this may have been a problem ever since I installed the pads, but having bled the brakes may have made it more pronounced.

Also, would it be possible for an air bubble that could be stuck in the brake lines to expand as the brakes get hotter and cause the pistons to always apply pressure?

 

When you removed the pads and then put them back in, did you make sure that the pads went back in the same exact position? So that the pad seated to the rotor was the same.

 

I can't recall but do our cars have a pedal adjustment for the master cylinder?

It's possible you have a trapped air bubble, how are you bleeding? Do you have a power bleeder or are you doing it two person style? What fluid are you using?

 

Yes the pads are going in the exact same place, they are properly seated on the rotors. I'm using the 2-person method, bleeding with Motul RBF600

 

It is possible the calipers and/or the master have an issue then. I would investigate those further.

 

BTW, I investigated a bit today before messing around with the brakes and it turns out all 4 brakes drag, it's just that the 2 front ones are the worst. Something with the MC then?

 

PROBLEM FIXED!

The installation guide I was using when I swapped to the RC5 pads said to reuse the OEM shims, but didn't mention anything about new shims that came with the pads. So I took a chance and figured that it meant to use both. It was a tight squeeze getting the pads in but it didn't seem like they were dragging initially, so I left everything like that. I suspect the reason they didn't drag (not enough for me to notice at least) is because the brakes were due to be bled, so the air inside the lines was compressing to allow the brakes to release. Now that I've bled the brakes however, the pads would stay stuck to the rotors. I've removed the shim that came with the pads, leaving only the OEM shim in place, and all is well!

Thanks to everyone for your help though.

 

Bump: Problem is back now after I bled the brakes again. See the OP for more info, April 13th update in particular.

 

I'm having the same issue. In the morning it would be able to roll but after 8 or so normal stops it would start to drag enough to complete the stop for me at low rolling speed (5mph).... Anyone have any ideas?

 

Try doing a bed-in procedure. I started this thread shortly before a lapping day, which took place on April 16th, a few days after I last updated my OP. After the first session my brakes were no longer sticking.

 

I rebled And the sticking stopped. But it wasn't as firm as it was when sticking. Now it has this layered soft pedal feel and its squealing bad.