Should I instal head studs or not??
Hey, guys,
I'm sort of 'on the fence' on installing my ARP head studs. My car is an 04' Evo8 with about 113K miles on the odo. Its has a stock bottom end, stock cams, etc etc. I'm the 2nd owner but I know that for most of its life it has had tbe, HKS intake and a re-flash. I use the car for local time attack events and sometimes for my commute to work.
Anyway, I took the car apart for a cam belt and water pump replacement and I have an HTA green turbo on the way.
My question is, should I replace the stock head bolts with ARP studs? The change would be done 1 at a time, without removing the head, thus why I'm a bit apprehensive. I've done this before, on almost new evos, with no problems. This time, since this car has very high mileage, I'm afraid about risking the head gasket by doing this change, with the head on the motor. What do you guys think? Should I install my HTA green with stock headbolts, or should I not worry about the head gasket and go ahead and install the ARPs?

Thanks for your input!
Julian
I'm sort of 'on the fence' on installing my ARP head studs. My car is an 04' Evo8 with about 113K miles on the odo. Its has a stock bottom end, stock cams, etc etc. I'm the 2nd owner but I know that for most of its life it has had tbe, HKS intake and a re-flash. I use the car for local time attack events and sometimes for my commute to work.
Anyway, I took the car apart for a cam belt and water pump replacement and I have an HTA green turbo on the way.
My question is, should I replace the stock head bolts with ARP studs? The change would be done 1 at a time, without removing the head, thus why I'm a bit apprehensive. I've done this before, on almost new evos, with no problems. This time, since this car has very high mileage, I'm afraid about risking the head gasket by doing this change, with the head on the motor. What do you guys think? Should I install my HTA green with stock headbolts, or should I not worry about the head gasket and go ahead and install the ARPs?


Thanks for your input!
Julian
I would do it better to be safe then sorry especially if your gonna put that green on and boost over 30 psi. I have seen people do with out and be fine but just a piece of mind.
Bryan
Bryan
I wouldn't do the Green without them, specially if you are going to be over 30psi on a green and doing time attack. I did them when I installed a Red and I wasn't doing time attack or drag. Good luck with the build.
Seems weird that you're not concerned at all with throwing a Green at a stock bottom end with that many miles on it
Headstuds woluld definately be one thing on a list of a bunch of other things I would consider doing before making a bunch more power.
Good luck man.

Headstuds woluld definately be one thing on a list of a bunch of other things I would consider doing before making a bunch more power.
Good luck man.
Okay, I'll probably go ahead and throw them on, since I already have them.
motocooney,
I know the risk of installing the green on this motor. I probably wont be going over 26psi with it, on the stock bottom end. Also, I run 114 octane at the track and tune for 0 knock, so my car should be safe. I hope!
Thanks for the comments!
Julian
motocooney,
I know the risk of installing the green on this motor. I probably wont be going over 26psi with it, on the stock bottom end. Also, I run 114 octane at the track and tune for 0 knock, so my car should be safe. I hope!
Thanks for the comments!
Julian
I suggest you leave the head alone. Install the new HTA Green. Run a reasonable boost level: you mentioned 26psi; I suggest 24psi. Tune it with a nice conservative track tune. Drive it and enjoy.
Do you have access to E85 by chance?
Do you have access to E85 by chance?
Trending Topics
I have the HTA Green and I was running an E-85 tune @ 31 psi falling to 27-28 psi @ redline. Its mostly in the tune on how the torque hits in the bottom end that affects the reliability factor. At the moment I'm retuning with ecu boost control and dual maps for e85 and 93 octane. Ecu boost controlled tune should help even more in controlling low end torque while maximizing upper rpm power. Because you can keep the boost spike low in the lower rpms and gradually increase as the rpms rise.
I am running the MAPerformance head studs. I recommend these head studs over the ARP because of this:


I used the 1X1 method to replace the head studs and did not have any issues. Just make sure that you understand 1x1 means you loosen and unbolt, replace and re-tighten 1 head stud at a time. Do not loosen the other head studs until you've replaced and re-tightened that single stud at the recommended torque specification. Also work the studs from inside out. Meaning start from the middle column and work your way out simultaneously.
Oh and I would recommend installing the head studs as a preventative measure from possibly lifting the head from the higher cylinder pressure. There are mixed reviews where people were fine with out them and others recommend to have them etc...
Good luck,
I am running the MAPerformance head studs. I recommend these head studs over the ARP because of this:


I used the 1X1 method to replace the head studs and did not have any issues. Just make sure that you understand 1x1 means you loosen and unbolt, replace and re-tighten 1 head stud at a time. Do not loosen the other head studs until you've replaced and re-tightened that single stud at the recommended torque specification. Also work the studs from inside out. Meaning start from the middle column and work your way out simultaneously.
Oh and I would recommend installing the head studs as a preventative measure from possibly lifting the head from the higher cylinder pressure. There are mixed reviews where people were fine with out them and others recommend to have them etc...
Good luck,
Last edited by BluEVOIX; Apr 3, 2011 at 01:25 PM.
Are they the standard ARP's or L19? The standard ARP''s I've reused but you're supposed to check and see if they stretched at all. With the L19's you can reuse them no problem.




