Well it lasted for a long time. Now it's time for a new clutch. I have searched in forum
and ACT HDSS seems the right way to go. But i did find some horror stories. Hope it doesn't happen to me. I'm one of those types that if something can go wrong it happens.
I'm hoping the ACT can last longer than the stock clutch. Didn't know clutch jobs were this expensive.

 

yea thats exacty why i did it myself lol. just take your time searching and swap that bad boy. its a pain but verry possible. check this site out. helped me alot http://www.evomoto.com/tech_articles..._article_id=27

 

If you can get 86K out of a stocker why not go for another one. I'd suggest it is unlikely that any aftermarket clutch is going to make it to 86K. Aftermarket clutches are for people making more power.

 

+1 if you plan on staying same power level just get a stocker and resurface your flywheel

 

hm.. how much are stock clutches?

 

http://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-MBK1001-...ar=1&carId=002

 

If you are going to remain in the same power range there should be no reason you could not get the same mileage out of another stocker clutch. The stock clutch is an exedy, so how about just going with a higher stage exedy single disc? If you plan on going to a higher power/tq, then I highly suggest the Exedy Twin.

You will also need a new throw out bearing and flywheel (unless the old one can be resurfaced).

 

@daechul2da

If you like your car a lot I would make sure you have a good understanding of doing your clutch. A lot of people can do it, but doing it right vs doing it and everything works are not the same. There are a lot of little things that will help your car, like clutch stop etc.

Also, I would not use the ACT clutch. The clutch worked what I felt was good, but when I sent in my tranny to be upgraded shep knew what clutch I was running without even asking. He said " Are you running an ACT clutch?" I said " yes" and he said he could tell because of the extra wear that was on the tranny. I had done normal driving and only had like 3000 miles on that clutch since I put it in over a year.( that being said I still have that clutch pretty much new in the box)

I am not trying to bash ACT. It does the job of a clutch well, it just might be at the price of something that cost more. Stay stock if you can, if you must go up stay with Exedy.

GL with whatever you find fits best for you.

 

Exedy singles arent really any better than stock, and most the tranny guys wont warranty trannys if you're using any of the twins.

Ive used stock, Comp stage 3, and HDSS. My HDSS had no shifting problem at the 7500 rev limit but I also don't slam gear and only tried shifting once that high. For my use I almost always short shift to 2nd and stay there.

 

Mine didn't have problems until the 3 to 4th gear shift at 7500. 1, 2, and 3 shifts were fine.

 

Ahh, well then Ill never have to worry about that

 

what to do~` what to do ~~~ everything just got more complicated. the more i learn the more hard to make decisions

 

If you are not beating your car up then just get the stage 1 exedy w/ organic disc it will hold more torque load and still drive like stock.
I used it on mine forever and never had any problems out of it. It ran well at the track (not as well as my twin disc) but very good! What clutch you get just depends on what you want to get out of your car. Some minor bolt ons and not really killing the car stock or oem replacement, plans for high hp daily driver twin disc, a straight race machine go triple.

 

Which ever way you go, I definitely recommend sticking with a clutch with an organic disc. Ive tried stock(organic), CFDF, kevlar, feramic, and sintered iron. Ive had the best luck with organic for daily use and moderate autocross launches. I have about 20 on the ACT now and the Comp Stg3 gave up after about 15 and one real bad launch.

6puck unsprung sintered iron/feramic is a beast though, that clutch has probably 100+ launches with the 2.4 and is now starting to show signs of its age.