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haha, yeah right. Theres a shop called "turnin concepts" in fairfield aka northern cincinnatiOriginally Posted by Craig King
You can get to Buschur in 40 minutes from Cincy??!?!
Evolved Member
Sounds like you need a pro to look at your car. I'd take the advice and drive down to Buschur ( I would If I live that close). Trying to remedy any problems over a forum isn't the way to go with our cars, unless your fairly certain of what your doing. No disrespect but small problems like this can turn into major overhauls; i should know lol...
Evolved Member
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That just tells you that someone modified your tune, but not that it is a "good", "safe" one.Originally Posted by prowakeskater
I know because I have full bolt ons and get 25+ mpg on highways, I have a two-step programmed in, and my RPM jumps between shifts if I recirculate my BOV.
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wish me luck
Make sure the shop knows what they are doing on the particular issues you're dealing with. Assuming you are still running the stock ECU, you might want to find someone who has the cables and background knowledge to review and assess your current "tune" and see what you really have in there...Originally Posted by prowakeskater
but, youre definitely right. I need to get my wideband and boost guage in tomorrow and drive extra conservatively until I get this figured out. Theres a shop about 40 minutes from me that deals with evos, im think gonna take it there. wish me luck
Buschur might be a little further away, but at least you know they can do exactly what you need done.
also, Id like to add that I logged a couple pulls before this started happening and got no knock through redline and made 328hp... I would like to lean towards the tune on it being very appropriate and accurate. The power curve on virtualdyno was very smooth...
im watching the ecuflash instructional videos. this may be the nudge i needed to start tuning myself
im watching the ecuflash instructional videos. this may be the nudge i needed to start tuning myself
car is running worse and worse. the service engine soon light flashed a couple of times and it feels gutless after becoming really warm. not having the best hope
Tried doing a compression test, but the threaded tip got stuck in my head, and the hose became loose, so I pulled it off, and then realized the tip isnt shaped to accept any type of socket. fml
Tried doing a compression test, but the threaded tip got stuck in my head, and the hose became loose, so I pulled it off, and then realized the tip isnt shaped to accept any type of socket. fml
so I pulled my rom and found some interesting stuff.
looks like my afr settings are really really rich, and it seems like my low octane map was confused with my high octane map. The low one has more timing than the high! wtf
looks like my afr settings are really really rich, and it seems like my low octane map was confused with my high octane map. The low one has more timing than the high! wtf
Evolving Member
You should stop before you destory your engine, you havent educated yourself enough to be changing the rom. Those AFR aren't correct thats why you need your wd02 installed.
agreed, im just peeking at them to see whats going on. LC-1 and Stri boost guage are going in tomorrow, along with a compression test :/
just bought some new(er) coil packs and also ordered some NGK bpr7eix's to replace these new Autozone autolite iridiums. The gap was set to .025
ran into this information:
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You will be able to feel a misfire epsecially under hard acceleration as there will be a stumble in the engine, and it will most likely continue perhaps causing a nice shake in the car. If you have exhaust you will likely hear it as well. If you have a wideband look for a rich spike. Depenind on how bad of a mis it is it may or may not give you a check engine light, or CEL. Sometimes a your spark can get blown out because of improper gap and this can cause a mis but usually only under boost. Also if you have a weak coilpack (cop) this can cause a misfire as well. The car may idle fine and only mis under certain conditions. If it is a weak coilpack then it may run fine when cold but start to mis once its warmed up.
I have noticed my car run progressively worse the warmer it got... keeping my fingers crossedYou will be able to feel a misfire epsecially under hard acceleration as there will be a stumble in the engine, and it will most likely continue perhaps causing a nice shake in the car. If you have exhaust you will likely hear it as well. If you have a wideband look for a rich spike. Depenind on how bad of a mis it is it may or may not give you a check engine light, or CEL. Sometimes a your spark can get blown out because of improper gap and this can cause a mis but usually only under boost. Also if you have a weak coilpack (cop) this can cause a misfire as well. The car may idle fine and only mis under certain conditions. If it is a weak coilpack then it may run fine when cold but start to mis once its warmed up.
Evolved Member
well another thing that just hit me man, when u swapped your blow off valves, are you sure the recirc hose and clamps for the bov on the uicp and the intake are all on evenly on the pipe and tightened as much as possible, cuz those could be causin an issue, if air is escaping out there due to a boost leak. Just hit me right now, look into that simple check that could possibly cure the issue.
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Hmmm, def could be a boost leak, I was really messing with all the uic piping. I'm installing my lc-1 and boost guage as I type this. I'll see what's upOriginally Posted by dastallion951
well another thing that just hit me man, when u swapped your blow off valves, are you sure the recirc hose and clamps for the bov on the uicp and the intake are all on evenly on the pipe and tightened as much as possible, cuz those could be causin an issue, if air is escaping out there due to a boost leak. Just hit me right now, look into that simple check that could possibly cure the issue.
Thanks!
Evolved Member
when you go back through start with ur licp off the turbo, use hairspray spray on each part of the piping where theres a coupler, spray it on there give it a min or so to somewhat dry, then install couplers evenly on piping then clamp them down pass the flange, go through each till you get to the throttle body, thats a cheap way to do a boost leak test. Do each coupler and clamp including your blow off valve recirc hose and uicp to that hose as well. Try each and tighten em down, then go for a test drive and see if its better.
Good luck
Good luck
ok installed everything and damn, this Stri really sucks! its nowhere near accurate and bounces all over the place. Oh well...
but paying attention to the AFR made me realize that im experiencing major symptoms that point to boost leak. My AFR drops all the way into the 9's boosting past 10-15 psi and its feeling like the car is falling on its face now.
So im pretty sure the afr was getting extremely low to the point of misfire, and has gotten progressively worse.
boost leak test is in order, and I just received new tb seals.
but paying attention to the AFR made me realize that im experiencing major symptoms that point to boost leak. My AFR drops all the way into the 9's boosting past 10-15 psi and its feeling like the car is falling on its face now.
So im pretty sure the afr was getting extremely low to the point of misfire, and has gotten progressively worse.
boost leak test is in order, and I just received new tb seals.