Apparently I should have asked "do I have a built rear differential?" and expected people to speculate based on third person perspectives. My! What a hot topic!...

 

Tilton carbon triple! that's what you need

 

It took me and my buddy 3 full days to do this clutch rebuild. That did include replacing some missing bolts from the transfer case (they fell out while I was driving around because the threads were stripped) as well as other missing bolts. Not to mention I pulled the intake manifold because I am a moron and it took a good few hours to get the flywheel off of the crank (going straight to torch next time instead of constant kroil oiling and hammer pinging/impact wrenching). Next time will probably only take 2 days but I will not be doing another clutch job for a good little while now.

When I do, I will have to decide to stick with the competition or get something with a high friction, high pressure, low MOI and low weight. This clutch has a giant weight ring on the outside of the flywheel which is what I am assuming makes it "street" friendly. Considering my car already idles around 1500 most of the time and 1100 with floating, I don't really care about having a high idle.

 

x2

 

I really don't know when you are full of **** or not... I need to get better at this.

 

It's what I want, and certainly most people want it too... for good reasons. It just happens to be very expensive :P

 

Which competition clutch was this?

 

Competition Twin Disk Street friendly version.

Also, the Tilton carbon/carbon I can only find in twin disk for the Evo. What about the Carbonetics carbon/carbon?

 

Call Geoff at Full Race. He can tell you all about the carbonetics carbon clutch. You should buy it and try it so I can drive it.

 

The Exedy and Carbonetics twin carbon/carbon are rather heavy (~25lbs) compared to the tilton (~16lbs).

I wonder if it would be possible to implement the tilton 5.5" 3/4 plate carbon/carbon on the Evo. The limiting factor is the inside diameter of flywheel surface which would need to be 3.44" at maximum. What is the outside diameter of the flywheel bolts? Could always get a manufacturer to see if they would make a crank with a slightly lower diameter crankshaft bolts locations. This would reduce the mechanical advantage of the crank but it is not like people are not already going with lower ratio final drives anyway.

The other limiting factor is the clearance to the TOB and its actuation mechanism (but that is a detail that can be worked out)... bleh what ifs and blah blahs.

I would think it would work amazing in a high horsepower Evo though.

 

Actually, I just took a look at a picture of a flywheel with a frame of reference and I estimate the outside diameter of the flywheel bolts is ~3". It very well could be possible to implement a 5.5" 3/4 plate. But if it is, I would wonder why a manufacture has not done so already. The torque holding is less with the lower diameter but with a high friction material like carbon/carbon or sintered iron, it would work quite well. The real limiting factor here is the clearance to the main seal and whether you can use the 3/4 plate setups.