Best combo for HDSS?
Best combo for HDSS?
Been searching for a while and came to the conclusion that the ACT HDSS is the best clutch replacement candidate for my needs and goal of 400awt. My rev limit is set to 7800 so I'm def not worried about lockouts.
Ive gathered its a rilly common choice, so what do y'all suggest to get the best results from this kit? Should I worry about the TOB on the newly revised design? Get a lighter flywheel? Opt for something different than the organic disc?
light it up evotards
Ive gathered its a rilly common choice, so what do y'all suggest to get the best results from this kit? Should I worry about the TOB on the newly revised design? Get a lighter flywheel? Opt for something different than the organic disc?
light it up evotards
At 7800rpm you might want to worry about lock out actually. I get lock out between 7 to 7.5k on. I use stock flywheel and 330awhp. Great DD characteristics. I've driven mine through 30k, 40 drag launches, 10 track events, and 4 or 5 really bad clutching-burning I-messed-up launches. I also just saw a dyno graph today from ER that had a HDSS starting to slip at 510awtq on their dyno. Pretty impressive!
I didn't have lock out issues until last month. I guess it came on with pro longed abuse? Not sure. If you do get lock out, it sucks, but please slow your shift. I didn't....now I'm paying the price.
I didn't have lock out issues until last month. I guess it came on with pro longed abuse? Not sure. If you do get lock out, it sucks, but please slow your shift. I didn't....now I'm paying the price.
Last edited by deeman101; Sep 14, 2011 at 07:42 PM.
Low? I think you misunderstood. The clutch still has a lot of life left on it, my trans and tcase saw their end though 
. I'm going to check out the disc when it gets pulled off to see how much life it still has left. 
. I'm going to check out the disc when it gets pulled off to see how much life it still has left.
OH! My bad I thought you were talking about mileage. Yea 7800 is pretty high man. For sure there will be members that will say they never had an issue. There are also an equal number that say they DO have issues. And I kinda went from no issues to yes I have lock out. I think it has to do with abuse, proper installation, and how you drive it.
Btw I've been told the newer ACT throwouts are supposed to be stronger than OEM, but OEM will give you less noises. Sometimes my throwout clunks on disengagement.
OH! My bad I thought you were talking about mileage. Yea 7800 is pretty high man. For sure there will be members that will say they never had an issue. There are also an equal number that say they DO have issues. And I kinda went from no issues to yes I have lock out. I think it has to do with abuse, proper installation, and how you drive it.
Btw I've been told the newer ACT throwouts are supposed to be stronger than OEM, but OEM will give you less noises. Sometimes my throwout clunks on disengagement.
Btw I've been told the newer ACT throwouts are supposed to be stronger than OEM, but OEM will give you less noises. Sometimes my throwout clunks on disengagement.
alright, awesome. I don't think I will mind any noise, Ive grown used to them ever since Ive owned my evo
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Your lockout is probably caused by the "really bad clutching-burning I-messed-up launches" you mentioned. What happens is the surfaces warp from the heat and it takes more travel to create the required air gap on each side of the clutch disc to compensate for the warped surfaces. This can be true with any clutch, but the EVO is more sensitive to it than other vehicles at high rpm. A little more adjustment at the pedal will make up for it, or you may have to resurface the parts to avoid future lockout.
Regarding the TOB, I doubt if you clunk is from the TOB and there is no difference with the ACT versus the OEM in terms of noise. Usually people mistake gear noise for TOB noise. Since the TOB is a bearing, it just spins. About the only time you get noise through the TOB is when it is old and lost lubrication or the pressure plate wedge collar is not installed correctly. If that is the case you will probably feel the pedal pulsate.
Regarding the TOB, I doubt if you clunk is from the TOB and there is no difference with the ACT versus the OEM in terms of noise. Usually people mistake gear noise for TOB noise. Since the TOB is a bearing, it just spins. About the only time you get noise through the TOB is when it is old and lost lubrication or the pressure plate wedge collar is not installed correctly. If that is the case you will probably feel the pedal pulsate.
OH! My bad I thought you were talking about mileage. Yea 7800 is pretty high man. For sure there will be members that will say they never had an issue. There are also an equal number that say they DO have issues. And I kinda went from no issues to yes I have lock out. I think it has to do with abuse, proper installation, and how you drive it.
Btw I've been told the newer ACT throwouts are supposed to be stronger than OEM, but OEM will give you less noises. Sometimes my throwout clunks on disengagement.
Btw I've been told the newer ACT throwouts are supposed to be stronger than OEM, but OEM will give you less noises. Sometimes my throwout clunks on disengagement.
Your lockout is probably caused by the "really bad clutching-burning I-messed-up launches" you mentioned. What happens is the surfaces warp from the heat and it takes more travel to create the required air gap on each side of the clutch disc to compensate for the warped surfaces. This can be true with any clutch, but the EVO is more sensitive to it than other vehicles at high rpm. A little more adjustment at the pedal will make up for it, or you may have to resurface the parts to avoid future lockout.
Regarding the TOB, I doubt if you clunk is from the TOB and there is no difference with the ACT versus the OEM in terms of noise. Usually people mistake gear noise for TOB noise. Since the TOB is a bearing, it just spins. About the only time you get noise through the TOB is when it is old and lost lubrication or the pressure plate wedge collar is not installed correctly. If that is the case you will probably feel the pedal pulsate.
Regarding the TOB, I doubt if you clunk is from the TOB and there is no difference with the ACT versus the OEM in terms of noise. Usually people mistake gear noise for TOB noise. Since the TOB is a bearing, it just spins. About the only time you get noise through the TOB is when it is old and lost lubrication or the pressure plate wedge collar is not installed correctly. If that is the case you will probably feel the pedal pulsate.
I get a really specific clunk though. Its can happen just as easily when the car is standing still. Like in the morning I go to drive my car and hear that clunk as I go to shift into 1st. Never happened with the OEM clutch.
I don't dispute that I was the cause of the lock out. I figured it was due to abuse and warped surface. This clutch is great if owners know its intended use and purpose.
I get a really specific clunk though. Its can happen just as easily when the car is standing still. Like in the morning I go to drive my car and hear that clunk as I go to shift into 1st. Never happened with the OEM clutch.
I get a really specific clunk though. Its can happen just as easily when the car is standing still. Like in the morning I go to drive my car and hear that clunk as I go to shift into 1st. Never happened with the OEM clutch.
I am not sure about the clunk sound and what the source is, but I doubt if it is the TOB. As I run it through my mind, the TOB just spins and there is nothing in the pressure plate to make a noise like that, especially on a pull type clutch (it has less moving parts). If it is clutch related it is probably has to do with the disc. Realize of course that I haven't heard it and examined exactly how/when the noise occurs, to I am speculating. I am not even sure if it is clutch related, but I can't say for sure. Thanks for the response and input.
