AlwaysinBoost

iTrader: (17)

Recently my balance shaft belt (gates) let go on me at Watkins Glen. I had my mechanic fix everything and while he was in there install a balance shaft delete kit so this type of failure wouldn't happen again, but now I've got a new problem.

I'm seeing 8-9 counts of knock with very little/light throttle input. Its a weird type of knock too because it will 'flicker' between 8-9 counts instead of the usual hitting a peak number then decaying down to zero. For example, if you just tap the throttle in neutral to about 30% the logs show 8 or 9 counts of knock, then it will flicker between the two for several seconds before returning to zero. It mostly happens right at the crossover from vacuum into boost, but it will do it at idle if I rev the motor in neutral.

The really weird thing is that I'm getting knock in load cells where I have the ROM set to ignore due to getting flash knock prior to the work I had done. Basically, I had my knock light turned off below 3k and 100load, but dispite that I'm still seeing my CEL flash and the logs are showing me

I also have two CEL's, one for the Baro sensor and another for the intake air temp sensor. I forget the actual DTC, but those are the descriptions. I cleared them both with EVOScan but they came right back, not sure if its related to this issue or not but I wanted full disclosure. IAT is in the MAF, correct? not sure why this is coming up. The baro sensor I believe is the one on the intake manifold and if so that is replaced now by my JDM 3 bar MAP so not sure why that code is there either.

Any help or ideas where to start looking would be great. So far with my research I've come up with the following possible causes:

balance shaft delete installed 180* out (which I want to believe isn't the case because the shop that did the work is pretty meticulous with their work)
bad knock sensor
???

Babs

iTrader: (26)

You can't install the oil pump 180 degrees off if you delete the balance shaft. The reason there's a timing mark for the oil pump is for when you do have a balance shaft, it's to ensure the weight on the shaft isn't out of time with everything else because it'd cause crazy shimmies.

Can you audibly hear the pinging? I'd lean towards a bad knock sensor.

AlwaysinBoost

iTrader: (17)

I didn't do the work myself, so I'm just going off what I was told/read. if its not possible to install the BS delete 180* out then that eliminates one possible culprit.

I don't hear any pinging, but the motor does sound different than before. by different I mean louder and more mechanical sounding, if that makes sense. Previously I had S2 cams w/springs, retainers and seats installed. I pulled the cams and put the stockers put back in when everything went back together but kept the springs/seats & retainers. I also upgraded to these 'newly designed lifters' from mitsu. Don't know if the combination of those modifications could be partially responsable to the knocking or the sound, just trying to disclose as much info as I can.

Babs

iTrader: (26)

Yea if you do a balance shaft eliminator kit, it's impossible to have the shaft "off time". That's only if you have a stock balance shaft.

It's normal to hear more engine noises and feel more vibes with the BS delete. It could possibly be just phantom knock or it could be a bad knock sensor. Did you get the car retuned after the cam install?

AlwaysinBoost

iTrader: (17)

no retune. All I did was adjust the BISS, using evoscan, so the car wouldn't idle so high, thats it.

I have the knock sensors set to ignore all knock below 100 load and 3k RPM so I'm confused why I'm even seeing a flashing CEL @ idle...

BLK_EvIL

iTrader: (7)

maby try and get a MAF to barrow and see if that cures you DTC's or check to see if one of the pins on the plug is bent or any other visual problems

AlwaysinBoost

iTrader: (17)

I cleared the IAT and Baro sensors codes today and they have not come back. I'm still getting the same knock counts, only now I have a new cel P0325 - knock sensor 1 circuit. I visually checked the knock sensor and it's plugged in... Could the wiring have gotten tweaked when the head was pulled? Any other suggestions?

wingless

iTrader: (15)

AS one of the few people running a built motor with no balance shafts and a stock muffler I can tell you it is quite a bit louder w/o the balance shafts... Particularly at about 4k. I think most people have such a loud car or race car by the time they get to that point they don't notice or care.

JCbanks had a good thread on it but raising the knock floor ~20% keeps the functionality of the knock system intact without it going nuts and pulling timing

AlwaysinBoost

iTrader: (17)

problem solved. its always the little things that get ya. turns out the knock sensor plug wasn't seated in the harness.

Svendiesel

iTrader: (25)

Did you ever happen to have this issue again or was it really just the plug not being in properly?

Im hoping thats what my issue was. Just drove for 15 miles and luckily didnt get the code for it so far.

AlwaysinBoost

iTrader: (17)

once I put the plug back on my issues went away. I still have some 'noise' from the balance shaft delete, but its nothing like when the sensor was unplugged. Hope that helps.

Svendiesel

iTrader: (25)

Does the excess balance shaft noise still throw the code? Or no?

AlwaysinBoost

iTrader: (17)

I am seeing more knock counts in odd places than i did prior to the BS delete. I assume its due to the extra vibrations the sensor is picking up. What i described in my original post is 100% gone, though. now its just a random knock spike here and there when I'm rolling into the throttle or lifting off it.

Svendiesel

iTrader: (25)

Ok word, so knock shows up but your service engine soon light doesnt come on signaling you about P0325 correct?

tscompusa

iTrader: (31)

with the sensor dc'ed it goes nuts huh? its pretty scary. you just need to filter the noise alittle more now since you opened up some additional noises that the car didnt come with from the factory so the sensor is dumb at this point.. now just make it smarter and you'll be good to go

just do a once over on the entire car first before doing that tho.. confirm nothing is rattling against anything etc to tip any noise off. adjusting the sensor should be a last resort.