Fuel system is overkill.

FIC 2150/ID2200
Upgrade fuel line
Keep stock fuel rail and get a AN fitting from AMS for the OEM fuel rail or get any decent fuel rail
double pumper of your choice.

Should be good for whatever you through at it on E85.

 

If this is a street car why change to the tilton pedals or the lexan windows? Thats a tab bit overkiller for a street car. Another thing is mid 9's on radials or slicks?

 

This sounds like a way bit over kill..... Highway runs? Let me guess... your a street racer...

 

+2 on this ^^^^^^^

 

I totally missed that, sorry, yes 2.0 and 2.0LR offer better R/S on the same rod lenght, but I dont want to rev to the moon, nowadays people rev really high on 2.4LR engines, which is more than sufficent for me in this build.

I build several Evos and S2000s, my aim was to build the car once and build a solid one but this is going to be my most expensive build and when the numbers are this high you can buy an 2.1LR engine afterwards, I didnt numbered A/R on the turbo because I will purchase couple of different housings and try each other.

Since in this build nearly I change or modify everything in the car, I cant control everything, you decide your engine, than turbo than another thing after a while you change your final drive and your setup collaps you need to get boost 200rpm sooner or another problem... so instead of try to calculating everything I may go with trial and error but I can't trash every thing after a fail...

I even do Matlab simulations for this build to determine a gearbox and engine characteristics but even tuners numbers are not identical, two identical cars makes different power in different band, so I really bored with the calculations and plans, even If I burn some serious amount money on a one or two critical part in this build I will not be unhappy, cause time I spend on planing and calculations take serious amount of time which I may earn another shortblock money at that time..

That is why I opened this thread, I want to get different suggestions, but if 80 percent of the people thinks this setup is Okay, I will be convinced

Also I am going to go with FD wheels with some hoosiers if I cant find some used 17" Volk wheels

I will try several A/R since this list cost 50K just for parts trying different housings do not harm the grand total that much

I will use E85 but there is not PSI limitation, I know that I am going to face with serious problems in each step of this build, as I deal with them PSI will raise without any boundary, if I convince that I reached the limit of the car in any state, car will evolve so PSI will be raise as long as I am financially strong...

Your suggestions are noted.

As I mentioned I am not in favor to rev, I may go with 2.1 in the second engine, since I know that there will be a "second engine" in this build


Me and my buddy talked about the same thing, we inspected that factory oil line has some coating, or something similar, and pattern inside, I guess it is much more than a simple flex hose, OEM fuel line will stay in place until it become a bottle neck with a double or triple pumper but I may ditch the OEM gas tank, I need to weight it

Goodluck with your build man

Thank you man,

Tilton pedals because I will remove the ABS and I dont want to use seat rails instead I want to mount the seats at a fixed position which is lowest possible and use rails on the pedals to adjust drive position...

For the lexan windows, It is a must with the FRP doors, cause building a real replica of the factory door, which have precise holes for window motors, door handle and mechanical stuff under the door, is not easy task and not cheap either, plus window motors weight heavy, so I will go with a much more simple door which you cant use the glass cause you cant mount them plus since I am not going to use the OEM stripes I need to stick windows with epoxy and screws... I may even build the doors without outer door handles...

Don't be judgmental, I am an engineer not a street racer, but I do some highway runs, this car will see track more often than the streets...

 

hows it going guys, any updates on your build

 

Plans are changes, I am going to build an 2.0LR on my usable 4G63 core with;

Custom 10.5:1 Wiseco HD1400
156mm R&R Rods with ARP Studs
OEM Crank

GSC S3 Cams
GSC Springs, Retainers, Seats
GSC Cam Gears
PnP Head
Ferrea +1mm Comp Plus Valves
Map H11 Headstuds
ARP Main

Also turbo will be PTE 6766 instead of 6765

No oil cooler

I also ditched weldon pump for Full-Blown double hanger + two aromotive 340 pumps with weldon filters and weldon FPR

I may ditch PFC 2pcs discs for BAER 2pcs discs ones, I know PFC is really high quality but Bear 2pcs comes with very good price tags...

And I am going to go with PST Carbon Fiber Driveshaft instead of AWDs AL one....

*** What about ProEFI 128 Ecu instead of AEM ? ***

I CANT REACH JON@TRE I am looking for somebody to HELP ME !

Expect the TRE drivetrain parts, PST CF driveshaft, discs, standalone everything nearly ordered...

Happy new year to everyone...

 

2.0 is the way to go brO, GL on this sikk build. happy new years

 

The proefi would be a wise choice, it has so many safeguards that the aem doesnt along with a ton of usable features that the aem also doesnt offer. Soundperformance gave me a great deal on mine.

 

You should do stm650 cams since they are more aggressive

 

I'm sad to see some MAP products removed from the list I'm here to help if you have any questions, we would love a shot at your business!

 

I second that you should go with a STM650's instead. If you're looking to make 800+WHP, those are the cams to buy. Looks like a pretty sick build. I hope it gets finished and please give updates. I don't know if you already bought a clutch yet, but I have a good condition Exedy Triple clutch with AMS push style for sale if you need one.

 

I am also confused with STM 650's, STM quoted that they needs to be used with dual springs so If I go with STM's than I need to change the springs too I may go with Ferrea dual springs or Supertech

Thank you for your kind offer but I have a twin clutch right know and I am planning to convert it to triple

 

GSC's beehives have a higher spring pressure than Supertech duals, they should work just fine (assuming the lift of the STM cams is within the constraints of the GSC springs)

 

STM 650's make HUGE power for high HP setups. I know GSC beehive springs are very good springs, but I don't know for sure if they will work with the STM 650's. That's a question I would ask STM about. Supertechs are good enough.

You could sell your twin and get my very good condition Push style triple for 1950 Pretty good deal if you ask me.