Check engine light P0172
Check engine light P0172
i got check engine light i pulled the code, its good to have laptop+softrawre+cable to check it right away, it says P0172 Rich 1
System to rich (bank 1), my mods?
K&N filter
MBC, gauge
TTimer
Forge VTA with green spring... ? (also i was thinking meybe i should
use yellow spring at the begining ) - also i re-check the mbc hoses.).
p/s also before pulling the code i thought its my gas cap...
any ideas guys?
System to rich (bank 1), my mods?
K&N filter
MBC, gauge
TTimer
Forge VTA with green spring... ? (also i was thinking meybe i should
use yellow spring at the begining ) - also i re-check the mbc hoses.).
p/s also before pulling the code i thought its my gas cap...
any ideas guys?
I'm inclined to think that the Vent to Atmosphere blowoff valve is what triggered it.. You could always reset the code with your software and see if it happens again.. Or swap the stock BOV back in and see if it comes back..
first what i would do change it to yellow spring (meybe green spring cant hold the boost or something iam not sure)well then... put it bank on see what happens if the CE comes back again, ill swap it with stock bov..and see whats next ...thx anywayz
Not to be a ***, but I tried 2 different Forge valves and a greddy and could not get any of them to work better then stock. Also you can feel slight compressor surge when you are crusing because of the bov. I tried 3 stock one's and they hold my 21-22PSI to redline fine.
I think anything that causes the MAF to misread, which it does when you get that "Stalling" when it blows off after getting on it and stopping.. Of course, since there's not enough air in the system, and too much fuel (Because there's fuel for what it thinks is the amount of air) your O2 sensor thinks its an extremely rich condition, and it tries to adjust, but can't, if it happens several times in a short period, it will trigger a CEL (sometimes the code is there, but no light because it happened very rarely)
The stock valve works pretty well at holding 19.5psi-20.5 or so PSI, my experience is at about 21psi it begins to leak slightly, though some have had good results with the stock DV (Diverter valve as opposed to a Blowoff Valve) with higher boost.
The most popular mod for DSM's is the inexpensive 1G Diverter Valve, with the housing crushed (a measured amount, not sure how much though) It seems to hold boost at a much higher level than the stock one. My upgraded Intercooler piping had a brand new 1G valve on it.. and thats what I plan on using.
Some people have lots of problems tuning an adjustable BOV, which accounts for most of the issues with them not working well, but with a VTA BOV, you will always have those stumbling/drivability issues (off throttle stalling) which you would need some sort of ECU compensation (HKS SAFR or something like that) to correct.
If you want to run an aftermarket Diverter valve.. its important that it recirculate back into the intake, otherwise you will always have the possibility of getting that CEL, plus the drivability issues. However most can run a Diverter type valve without issues.. Usually compressor surge (when it doesnt blowoff when throttle is released) is due to either the vacuum circuit isn't hooked up correctly, or possibly the valve is backwards in either case, the boost has to do the work of blowing off its pressure.. The purpose of the vacuum port on the BOV is to provide pressure against the valve to prevent assist it in not opening under boost, and the engine's vacuum, will assist the spring in opening easier when the engine sees vacuum.. If the spring is incorrect, or the adjuster screw is set incorrectly (or binding) then this "help" doesnt assist at all, and you can get other weird drivability issues.
Hope this helps a bit..
The stock valve works pretty well at holding 19.5psi-20.5 or so PSI, my experience is at about 21psi it begins to leak slightly, though some have had good results with the stock DV (Diverter valve as opposed to a Blowoff Valve) with higher boost.
The most popular mod for DSM's is the inexpensive 1G Diverter Valve, with the housing crushed (a measured amount, not sure how much though) It seems to hold boost at a much higher level than the stock one. My upgraded Intercooler piping had a brand new 1G valve on it.. and thats what I plan on using.
Some people have lots of problems tuning an adjustable BOV, which accounts for most of the issues with them not working well, but with a VTA BOV, you will always have those stumbling/drivability issues (off throttle stalling) which you would need some sort of ECU compensation (HKS SAFR or something like that) to correct.
If you want to run an aftermarket Diverter valve.. its important that it recirculate back into the intake, otherwise you will always have the possibility of getting that CEL, plus the drivability issues. However most can run a Diverter type valve without issues.. Usually compressor surge (when it doesnt blowoff when throttle is released) is due to either the vacuum circuit isn't hooked up correctly, or possibly the valve is backwards in either case, the boost has to do the work of blowing off its pressure.. The purpose of the vacuum port on the BOV is to provide pressure against the valve to prevent assist it in not opening under boost, and the engine's vacuum, will assist the spring in opening easier when the engine sees vacuum.. If the spring is incorrect, or the adjuster screw is set incorrectly (or binding) then this "help" doesnt assist at all, and you can get other weird drivability issues.
Hope this helps a bit..
Trending Topics
i got it
thanks, well i found out on my MBC i lost the nipple
which you attach on the turbo.... also when closing it i decided to restart the ECU, and now my rpms are more then 1, sometimes 1.5 (CE light comes again after 10min of driving) on VTA Forge, Wierd, so i said Screw this Shii** ill go back to stock, and then ill get either 1g bov (rec) or forge (rec).... no more Venting, i had to many problems.... if CE comes again, might be o2 covered with crap.. ahh..
thanks, well i found out on my MBC i lost the nipple which you attach on the turbo.... also when closing it i decided to restart the ECU, and now my rpms are more then 1, sometimes 1.5 (CE light comes again after 10min of driving) on VTA Forge, Wierd, so i said Screw this Shii** ill go back to stock, and then ill get either 1g bov (rec) or forge (rec).... no more Venting, i had to many problems.... if CE comes again, might be o2 covered with crap.. ahh..
ok guys here's a new one. i put in a type-s with it recirculating back to the intake. no leaks, hooked up properly, holds boost like a champ, part throttle response is fine, but i got the same check engine code, PO172, system too rich. Any ideas what it could be. I would understand if it was VTA, but I have it recirculating, doesn't make much sense to me. Anyone care to explain?
Originally Posted by MalibuJack
Wow.. my writing was fairly incoherant today.. sorry bout that..
Thank you
I'm having this P0172 code going on and I'm about to put the stock UICP with the stock BOV back into the car and have it recirculate back into the intake....
hopefully it will cure my problem, if not then I'm gonna see if I'll need to put my stock fuel pump back in....
could my front 02 sensor be shot? and if so how can I tell?
hopefully it will cure my problem, if not then I'm gonna see if I'll need to put my stock fuel pump back in....
could my front 02 sensor be shot? and if so how can I tell?



