New DBB FP Green Installed and Initial Tune
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Newbie
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 53
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From: Brisbane, Australia
New DBB FP Green on EVO IX and Tune Progress
Completed my install of a new DBB Green last night and completed some basic tuning today. Thanks again to Mikey at Spec-Ops for his great service is supplying the turbo and to FP for making such nice products.
On the old IX stock turbo I was seeing an average of 340hp and 320lbft using Virtual Dyno 1.1.4 and Dynojet setting. With the Green I'm already seeing 380hp and 320 lbft at the same peak boost level of around 24 - 25 PSI and 390 - 400hp and 330lbft at 27 PSI tapering to 26 PSI at redline. Thing is the Green holds clean, cool boost all the way up top as well. This is on 93 octane (98 RON in Australia)
I'm slowly increasing the boost and trimming up fuel and WGDC and see where I get to.
The Green is making nice boost from 2500 RPM and in 4th gear hits 25 PSI at 3500 rpm, compared to the stock IX turbo which hit that around 3400 rpm.
My Car Setup
Motorsport Logic exhaust 3" dump back with high flow cat
Walbro in-tank pump
FIC 1100 injectors
Grimspeed 3 port BCS
Tomei Fuel Pressure reg
Excedy HD single plate clutch
FP Green DBB, ported with 18 PSI actuator
FP Inlet pipe
Tephra V7 with my tune
Everything else is stock
Best I did on the old IX turbo was a 12.43 quarter mile at 111 mph (93 octane, 98 RON Australian). Cars done 58,000 miles and is my daily drive.
I chose the DBB Green for driveability, better top end than stock and reliability, ticks all boxes for me so far.
The sound of the DBB Green on song is something else
Latest tune on E85 (Eflex ranges from E70 - E85 in Brisbane, Australia)
On the old IX stock turbo I was seeing an average of 340hp and 320lbft using Virtual Dyno 1.1.4 and Dynojet setting. With the Green I'm already seeing 380hp and 320 lbft at the same peak boost level of around 24 - 25 PSI and 390 - 400hp and 330lbft at 27 PSI tapering to 26 PSI at redline. Thing is the Green holds clean, cool boost all the way up top as well. This is on 93 octane (98 RON in Australia)
I'm slowly increasing the boost and trimming up fuel and WGDC and see where I get to.
The Green is making nice boost from 2500 RPM and in 4th gear hits 25 PSI at 3500 rpm, compared to the stock IX turbo which hit that around 3400 rpm.
My Car Setup
Motorsport Logic exhaust 3" dump back with high flow cat
Walbro in-tank pump
FIC 1100 injectors
Grimspeed 3 port BCS
Tomei Fuel Pressure reg
Excedy HD single plate clutch
FP Green DBB, ported with 18 PSI actuator
FP Inlet pipe
Tephra V7 with my tune
Everything else is stock
Best I did on the old IX turbo was a 12.43 quarter mile at 111 mph (93 octane, 98 RON Australian). Cars done 58,000 miles and is my daily drive.
I chose the DBB Green for driveability, better top end than stock and reliability, ticks all boxes for me so far.
The sound of the DBB Green on song is something else
Latest tune on E85 (Eflex ranges from E70 - E85 in Brisbane, Australia)
Last edited by wrx2evoIX; Nov 21, 2011 at 02:22 AM. Reason: Updated tune results
Increase wastegate preload! You did state that you are slowly increasing boost and WGDC. So, there is still a glimmer of hope.
Last edited by sparky; Oct 21, 2011 at 08:38 PM.
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@Mikey
What does the DBB Green cost and what HP level can it support? My 35r is getting tired and with all of these stock frame turbos make the same power with quick spool up, I think it may be time to make the switch soon!
What does the DBB Green cost and what HP level can it support? My 35r is getting tired and with all of these stock frame turbos make the same power with quick spool up, I think it may be time to make the switch soon!
I am not trying to be a *****(it just comes naturally)! But, to give you an idea, my journal bearing Red on a stock 2-Liter motor spools to 24# by 3400 RPM. Like I said it is journal bearing and in addition, being a Red, it is configured with a higher mass/inertia rotating assembly than your Green is.
Of course, I pretty much chopped most of the threads off the end of the actuator rod and run it without a backup nut so that the turnbuckle doesn't leave any threads showing whatsoever. Also it has a shorter length turnbuckle than what FP supplied it with.
It surges like hell though. I figure that the overall length of the actuator rod is about one inch shorter than a stock FP 18# WGA. It is so tight that I had to mount the turnbuckle hole onto the flapper valve's pivot arm with the WGA's bracket unbolted from the compressor housing and only afterwards did I bolt the actuator bracket to the housing.
Of course, I pretty much chopped most of the threads off the end of the actuator rod and run it without a backup nut so that the turnbuckle doesn't leave any threads showing whatsoever. Also it has a shorter length turnbuckle than what FP supplied it with.
It surges like hell though. I figure that the overall length of the actuator rod is about one inch shorter than a stock FP 18# WGA. It is so tight that I had to mount the turnbuckle hole onto the flapper valve's pivot arm with the WGA's bracket unbolted from the compressor housing and only afterwards did I bolt the actuator bracket to the housing.
Last edited by sparky; Oct 21, 2011 at 09:29 PM.
You'll be giving up a lot of horsepower by downgrading from a 35R to a Green. A lot of peeps are doing just that though and loving the increased driving pleasure.
Last edited by sparky; Oct 21, 2011 at 08:31 PM.
I think I'm mainly after a quicker spool. I suppose a DBB Red would be ideal. However, I'm not even pushing my motor too hard with the 35r. It only did 450 on a Mustang Dyno, so that's really all I'd be after, as the car is my DD.
Blue91lx: Have you thought of an HTA 3076, or even a GTX 3076R instead of a 16G derivative. Wouldn't both of these turbos allow you to keep your present header and DP, etc.?
That is a nice engine build, BTW. Is your car running on E85? As you mentioned, an 84mm BB Red sounds intriguing with your combo though, EMS and all.
That is a nice engine build, BTW. Is your car running on E85? As you mentioned, an 84mm BB Red sounds intriguing with your combo though, EMS and all.
Last edited by sparky; Oct 21, 2011 at 09:33 PM.
Blue91lx: Have you thought of an HTA 3076, or even a GTX 3076R instead of a 16G derivative. Wouldn't both of these turbos allow you to keep your present header and DP, etc.?
That is a nice engine build, BTW. Is your car running on E85? As you mentioned, an 84mm BB Red sounds intriguing with your combo though, EMS and all.
That is a nice engine build, BTW. Is your car running on E85? As you mentioned, an 84mm BB Red sounds intriguing with your combo though, EMS and all.
. I have thought about doing a 3076 as I would like to keep the Shearer 
. However, the stock frame like the Red will offer much better spool from what I've seen and has the ability to make more power than the 3076! I agree though, it would be very nice to keep my custom IC piping, custom dump tube, Shearer manifold, etc. Honestly, I'll probably be a man, get used to the lag, and get the 35r HTA'd when summer rolls around.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 53
Likes: 1
From: Brisbane, Australia
18 PSI WGA. 4th gear test I just did I recorded 26PSI at 3500. Also my Green is ported, which I understand will slow spool by about 100 rpm but helps up top?
What wastegate actuator is fitted to your Green? Peaking @ 24# by 3900 is way lethargic for a BB Green, IMO. If you can't get it to peak before 3400-3500 then I'd dowse it in petrol and throw a lit match at it. A 3900 RPM peak boost level is simply nothing to write home about.
Increase wastegate preload! You did state that you are slowly increasing boost and WGDC. So, there is still a glimmer of hope.
Increase wastegate preload! You did state that you are slowly increasing boost and WGDC. So, there is still a glimmer of hope.
I am not trying to be a *****(it just comes naturally)! But, to give you an idea, my journal bearing Red on a stock 2-Liter motor spools to 24# by 3400 RPM. Like I said it is journal bearing and in addition, being a Red, it is configured with a higher mass/inertia rotating assembly than your Green is.
Of course, I pretty much chopped most of the threads off the end of the actuator rod and run it without a backup nut so that the turnbuckle doesn't leave any threads showing whatsoever. Also it has a shorter length turnbuckle than what FP supplied it with.
It surges like hell though. I figure that the overall length of the actuator rod is about one inch shorter than a stock FP 18# WGA. It is so tight that I had to mount the turnbuckle hole onto the flapper valve's pivot arm with the WGA's bracket unbolted from the compressor housing and only afterwards did I bolt the actuator bracket to the housing.
Of course, I pretty much chopped most of the threads off the end of the actuator rod and run it without a backup nut so that the turnbuckle doesn't leave any threads showing whatsoever. Also it has a shorter length turnbuckle than what FP supplied it with.
It surges like hell though. I figure that the overall length of the actuator rod is about one inch shorter than a stock FP 18# WGA. It is so tight that I had to mount the turnbuckle hole onto the flapper valve's pivot arm with the WGA's bracket unbolted from the compressor housing and only afterwards did I bolt the actuator bracket to the housing.
My 2.3 with Mivec makes 24psi @ 3500...
Logs/graph please