Notices
Evo Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain Everything from engine management to the best clutch and flywheel.

ARP L19 and oringed head questions (high boost)

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Nov 13, 2011 | 08:52 AM
  #16  
todd6027's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (10)
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,861
Likes: 13
From: Ireland
5 ply gasket oem part number 1005A700 and is a direct swap
Reply
Old Nov 13, 2011 | 04:39 PM
  #17  
Liqquid's Avatar
Evolved Member
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,427
Likes: 4
From: Sag-Nasty, MI
Originally Posted by todd6027
5 ply gasket oem part number 1005A700 and is a direct swap
yup, that's the part number.. 5 layer not 4 (whoops). And when comparing the gaskets next to each other you will see the differences. The only thing that really bugged me about it was the #3 water jackets being blocked off at the head gasket. After doing a little searching around I couldn't come up with why that was done, and what effect it would have on the Evo8 doing so. I did find a couple of the bigger shops either 'modifying' the gasket or recommending using the 8 gasket on the 8. So far that's what I'm running.. if you have some info on that #3 cylinder change I'd love to listen in!
Reply
Old Nov 13, 2011 | 07:19 PM
  #18  
mrboost05's Avatar
Evolved Member
15 Year Member
iTrader: (25)
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,132
Likes: 2
From: maryland/west chester pa
Originally Posted by n2oiroc
I guess i should have been more clear, they arent exactly the same, but you can use the 9 gasket on the 8 without mods with no ill effects. I thought i read that the 9 gasket was made to cool less on the intake side, but more on the exhaust side.
this is done on hondas as well with no problems i have also ran a smaller bore head gasket on motors that the bore was in bewteen two sizes on 3 diffrent motors 500hp 9k rpm motors so it works
Reply
Old Nov 13, 2011 | 08:52 PM
  #19  
tscompusa's Avatar
Thread Starter
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (31)
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 10,299
Likes: 67
From: PA
Originally Posted by eTiLiKo
There are very cheap leakdown testers (tipically the ones with the right gauge that goes from 0 to 100%) that work at very low psi, around 10psi. I'm not so confident in these...
However your JEGS tester seems to be ok.
oh ya.. agreed. when i was shopping for testers i seen some really crappy ones and bad reviews. the jegs one got good reviews.
Reply
Old Nov 13, 2011 | 08:58 PM
  #20  
tscompusa's Avatar
Thread Starter
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (31)
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 10,299
Likes: 67
From: PA
so i got a question for you guys.. since it seems my headstuds want the same tq as last year when i used lucas assembly lube would you say the ARP moly lube is pretty much the same as the lucas lube? i always thought the ARP moly was superior over assembly lube but i guess not?
Reply
Old Nov 13, 2011 | 09:09 PM
  #21  
n2oiroc's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (33)
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,180
Likes: 5
From: milwaukee, wi
i suppose it could be very close with the lubes, but who knows. with that high of torque, im wondering if the studs are stretched out? i guess if you are still having problems maybe a new 9 gasket and new studs.
Reply
Old Nov 13, 2011 | 09:39 PM
  #22  
tscompusa's Avatar
Thread Starter
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (31)
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 10,299
Likes: 67
From: PA
Originally Posted by n2oiroc
i suppose it could be very close with the lubes, but who knows. with that high of torque, im wondering if the studs are stretched out? i guess if you are still having problems maybe a new 9 gasket and new studs.
its definitely possible, but last year it required around that much also.. it was definitely over 120 until it stopped eating coolant.

you think the L19's stretch over time? i guess they have to if im lifting the head right? These L19's been off and on so they are re-used.. i was under the impression i could reuse them.
Reply
Old Nov 13, 2011 | 09:46 PM
  #23  
n2oiroc's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (33)
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,180
Likes: 5
From: milwaukee, wi
they can be reused a couple times if torqued to spec, but once they are over torqued they stretch and stay stretched, no spring left in them. i have heard of guys going to maybe 115 ft/lb with them, but thats about it.
Reply
Old Nov 13, 2011 | 10:00 PM
  #24  
TurboTravis's Avatar
Evolving Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 451
Likes: 0
From: Upstate NY
Originally Posted by tscompusa
so i got a question for you guys.. since it seems my headstuds want the same tq as last year when i used lucas assembly lube would you say the ARP moly lube is pretty much the same as the lucas lube? i always thought the ARP moly was superior over assembly lube but i guess not?
The Lucas Lube is more for coating bearings/lobes/etc, where as the ARP Moly is specifically for torquing fasteners. With that said, the torque value is going to be different using the Lucas lube vs. the ARP lube.
Reply
Old Nov 13, 2011 | 10:03 PM
  #25  
tscompusa's Avatar
Thread Starter
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (31)
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 10,299
Likes: 67
From: PA
Originally Posted by n2oiroc
they can be reused a couple times if torqued to spec, but once they are over torqued they stretch and stay stretched, no spring left in them. i have heard of guys going to maybe 115 ft/lb with them, but thats about it.
last year i was at 125 and this year the same.. so i dunno man. i know my head is oring'ed though.

based on the data i supplied here would confirm they are sealing properly right? almost 0% leakage on all cylinders.

one thing i did do this time tho.. is i loosened each one up then retq'ed that was a long time ago though. back in early summer and was fine after that. so i dont think the studs are bad.

if i continue to pressurize the coolant system tho then i guess that will answer my question.

ill give it some hell about 35psi and do a good 50 pulls or more then recheck the tq.. if they lose their tq then ill definitely get rid of them.

i know a tune can lift the head also.. so i even lowered a degree or so and confirmed power droppage.. so its definitely not related to that.

i think also for safety im going to replace the radiator cap + thermostat to refresh the coolant system with new parts.

Last edited by tscompusa; Nov 13, 2011 at 10:22 PM.
Reply
Old Nov 13, 2011 | 10:25 PM
  #26  
TheBoz's Avatar
Evolved Member
20 Year Member
Photogenic
Photoriffic
Shutterbug
iTrader: (9)
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,279
Likes: 15
From: Space time
You should always follow the MFG recommended torque spec. For ARP they come with both Oil and Moly Lube torque specs.

Anytime you take a head stud out you need to measure it before putting it back in the head. This is to make sure that it has not stretched to much. A head stud is like a spring, and once it is pulled to far it will never be good again.

When I did my galant with l19's I think I torqued them to 105 with moly lube, and 120 with oil sounds like the correct number, dont have the paper anymore.
Reply
Old Jan 29, 2012 | 06:28 PM
  #27  
outtanowhere's Avatar
Evolving Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
From: newyork
Is there a big difference in the regular arp studs and the l19 s besides price.I am rebuilding my motor which has the regular arp studs. Im trying to go for 600-700hp with no oringing.
Reply
Old Jan 29, 2012 | 06:57 PM
  #28  
n2oiroc's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (33)
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,180
Likes: 5
From: milwaukee, wi
Originally Posted by outtanowhere
Is there a big difference in the regular arp studs and the l19 s besides price.I am rebuilding my motor which has the regular arp studs. Im trying to go for 600-700hp with no oringing.
regular studs are fine at that level. i do everything overkill though, so im o-ringed and running l19's. expecting under 800whp.
Reply
Old Jan 30, 2012 | 09:48 AM
  #29  
tscompusa's Avatar
Thread Starter
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (31)
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 10,299
Likes: 67
From: PA
Originally Posted by TheBoz
You should always follow the MFG recommended torque spec. For ARP they come with both Oil and Moly Lube torque specs.

Anytime you take a head stud out you need to measure it before putting it back in the head. This is to make sure that it has not stretched to much. A head stud is like a spring, and once it is pulled to far it will never be good again.

When I did my galant with l19's I think I torqued them to 105 with moly lube, and 120 with oil sounds like the correct number, dont have the paper anymore.
im still at 125-130tq and everythings good.. put about 1k miles on car since retorque.. prob 200 pulls or more. my setup def required more tq on the studs then arp recommendations. every cars gonna be different. i daily drive it at 35psi.

reusing studs may have cost them to lose some spring also. they say l19's cant stretch but i believe people have proved that point to be false by measuring with dial gauge after abuse with them.
Reply
Old Sep 16, 2012 | 02:20 PM
  #30  
Jetfixrguy's Avatar
Evolving Member
iTrader: (56)
 
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
From: Florida 34609
Originally Posted by tscompusa
im still at 125-130tq and everythings good.. put about 1k miles on car since retorque.. prob 200 pulls or more. my setup def required more tq on the studs then arp recommendations. every cars gonna be different. i daily drive it at 35psi.

reusing studs may have cost them to lose some spring also. they say l19's cant stretch but i believe people have proved that point to be false by measuring with dial gauge after abuse with them.
An older thread here but useful information. I personally checked my re used L-19's before reinstalling them again into a new engine and saw I had two studs that had a difference of .001-.0015 of a difference. I can't recall their original length from ARP but I felt comfortable reusing them. However I only max torqued them to 105 ft lbs.
Reply



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 04:52 AM.