ARP L19 and oringed head questions (high boost)
yup, that's the part number.. 5 layer not 4 (whoops). And when comparing the gaskets next to each other you will see the differences. The only thing that really bugged me about it was the #3 water jackets being blocked off at the head gasket. After doing a little searching around I couldn't come up with why that was done, and what effect it would have on the Evo8 doing so. I did find a couple of the bigger shops either 'modifying' the gasket or recommending using the 8 gasket on the 8. So far that's what I'm running.. if you have some info on that #3 cylinder change I'd love to listen in!
oh ya.. agreed. when i was shopping for testers i seen some really crappy ones and bad reviews. the jegs one got good reviews.
so i got a question for you guys.. since it seems my headstuds want the same tq as last year when i used lucas assembly lube would you say the ARP moly lube is pretty much the same as the lucas lube? i always thought the ARP moly was superior over assembly lube but i guess not?
i suppose it could be very close with the lubes, but who knows. with that high of torque, im wondering if the studs are stretched out? i guess if you are still having problems maybe a new 9 gasket and new studs.
you think the L19's stretch over time? i guess they have to if im lifting the head right? These L19's been off and on so they are re-used.. i was under the impression i could reuse them.
they can be reused a couple times if torqued to spec, but once they are over torqued they stretch and stay stretched, no spring left in them. i have heard of guys going to maybe 115 ft/lb with them, but thats about it.
so i got a question for you guys.. since it seems my headstuds want the same tq as last year when i used lucas assembly lube would you say the ARP moly lube is pretty much the same as the lucas lube? i always thought the ARP moly was superior over assembly lube but i guess not?
based on the data i supplied here would confirm they are sealing properly right? almost 0% leakage on all cylinders.
one thing i did do this time tho.. is i loosened each one up then retq'ed that was a long time ago though. back in early summer and was fine after that. so i dont think the studs are bad.
if i continue to pressurize the coolant system tho then i guess that will answer my question.
ill give it some hell about 35psi and do a good 50 pulls or more then recheck the tq.. if they lose their tq then ill definitely get rid of them.
i know a tune can lift the head also.. so i even lowered a degree or so and confirmed power droppage.. so its definitely not related to that.
i think also for safety im going to replace the radiator cap + thermostat to refresh the coolant system with new parts.
Last edited by tscompusa; Nov 13, 2011 at 10:22 PM.
You should always follow the MFG recommended torque spec. For ARP they come with both Oil and Moly Lube torque specs.
Anytime you take a head stud out you need to measure it before putting it back in the head. This is to make sure that it has not stretched to much. A head stud is like a spring, and once it is pulled to far it will never be good again.
When I did my galant with l19's I think I torqued them to 105 with moly lube, and 120 with oil sounds like the correct number, dont have the paper anymore.
Anytime you take a head stud out you need to measure it before putting it back in the head. This is to make sure that it has not stretched to much. A head stud is like a spring, and once it is pulled to far it will never be good again.
When I did my galant with l19's I think I torqued them to 105 with moly lube, and 120 with oil sounds like the correct number, dont have the paper anymore.
Is there a big difference in the regular arp studs and the l19 s besides price.I am rebuilding my motor which has the regular arp studs. Im trying to go for 600-700hp with no oringing.
regular studs are fine at that level. i do everything overkill though, so im o-ringed and running l19's. expecting under 800whp.
You should always follow the MFG recommended torque spec. For ARP they come with both Oil and Moly Lube torque specs.
Anytime you take a head stud out you need to measure it before putting it back in the head. This is to make sure that it has not stretched to much. A head stud is like a spring, and once it is pulled to far it will never be good again.
When I did my galant with l19's I think I torqued them to 105 with moly lube, and 120 with oil sounds like the correct number, dont have the paper anymore.
Anytime you take a head stud out you need to measure it before putting it back in the head. This is to make sure that it has not stretched to much. A head stud is like a spring, and once it is pulled to far it will never be good again.
When I did my galant with l19's I think I torqued them to 105 with moly lube, and 120 with oil sounds like the correct number, dont have the paper anymore.
reusing studs may have cost them to lose some spring also. they say l19's cant stretch but i believe people have proved that point to be false by measuring with dial gauge after abuse with them.
im still at 125-130tq and everythings good.. put about 1k miles on car since retorque.. prob 200 pulls or more. my setup def required more tq on the studs then arp recommendations. every cars gonna be different. i daily drive it at 35psi.
reusing studs may have cost them to lose some spring also. they say l19's cant stretch but i believe people have proved that point to be false by measuring with dial gauge after abuse with them.
reusing studs may have cost them to lose some spring also. they say l19's cant stretch but i believe people have proved that point to be false by measuring with dial gauge after abuse with them.







