Alright folks time to revive this thread for a few more clarifications. TC was definitely the issue. I went to pass someone on the way home from a neighboring town the other day, nothing nuts like 1/2 to 3/4 throttle, and got a horrid pop/crunch noise followed by some grinds and then the noises went away completely. I'm guessing the ring and pinion went since the car still drives? I had to limp it home like 8 miles that night since I could not afford the tow. If the ring and pinion went, did I potentially damage the rear diff somehow driving it that way? I haven't driven it since, but may try to drive it another 5-10 miles to my buddies garage to get the broken tc out and replaced. Horrid idea? Also, a friend thinks he can get me a brand new oem tc for $700. Should I spring for the rs with the mitsu lsd, or just get a bare bones one to be able to drive the car, and save for a shep rebuild with quaife lsd for the currently broken one? Thanks for the input guys. This awd stuff gets confusing coming from hondas (nervous laugh) did I just admit that? <.< ....... >.>

 

If you launch the car don't get front lsd. And I don't know where he found one new for $700 but if that's true, good price

 

I was under the impression I wanted to LSD since the open diff is so weak. I plan on dragging the car a few times a year at most. Nothing excessive.

 

bump

 

Read up. Front LSD's break constantly when launched. Is there a real significant advantage to having front lsd? I have completely bald zri's and I can accelerate pretty damn good in the snow, just can't stop. And from reading a ton of posts on here about them failing under pressure I'd never get one if you launch the car

 

Huh. Well alright then. I just assumed I needed it and shep recommended one when I talked to him so I was a bit confused I guess.

 

Funny I've been putting it in my trans for well well over 100k.

So to OP Syncromesh will be just fine for your trans. You'll want to drain every 10k or so

 

good to know thank you