wingless. thanks. nice to know someone is listening.

I did read that part about increasing quadratically .got me thinking cause in the car it truley "feels worst" in the 3500-4500rpm range. then it somewhat smooths out at higher rpm. but now I realize the truth to what is happening. its like an impact wrench with 500 hits per second at 3000rpm. and 2000 hits per second at 6000RPM (4 times increase) you feel the 500 hits more because there is more space between them. 2000 hits per second wouldnt be felt as much because the hits are so close together. but the 2000 hits will do 4 times the damage.

 

Dead of winter here and i aint drove the car is a week. I bet $50 i can get at least 220 out of it and if i warm up the engine and test it i have seen as high as 235-240. It does run awesome! If you got the older pistons then thats why your compression is lower.

I know what happened here. DB had a good piston design for the 2.0... So he told JE to make the same piston but with the pin higher for the stroker engine. BUT, what he DID NOT realize was as displacement goes up compression will go up also, basic stuff imo. So a 10:1 2.0 piston in a 2.3 raises the compression to 11:1 or more. And i paid top dollor for his wisdom......

I will say this guys, My major vibrations are at idle and around 5000rpm i get the dash buzz.

 

My 8 yr old magnus 2.4L in my DSM cranks over 200psi cold cranking compression. Dont forget that cams have a huge impact on cranking compression so guys with huge overlap cams will have low cranking compression compared to someone with stock or mild cams. My 2.4 has HKS 272's so it is pretty high cranking compression. I had a stock head/cam motor with flat top pistons and that cranked over 230psi as well. Prob was close to 11:1 compression.

 

the response at the end was pretty immature. ive helped people on this forum with lots of good data and i rarely give bad info. but ill admit i am wrong sometimes, as is every other human being.

I did think the balance shafts were for balancing the engine, which im sure most do because of their name.. i was wrong so i will admit it.

Looks like they are called balance shafts because they are balanced shafts, nothing to do with actual internal engine balancing.. more so to eliminate vibrations caused by the engine as a whole to keep the car quieter and less vibration.

Obviously i was aware the vehicle picks up more vibrations with them removed,
but i didn't fully understand the concept how they operated.. now i do. its definitely interesting.

one article even says that due to the balance shafts spinning at high rates of speed at higher rpm they actually create more vibration to the internals of the engine.. not sure if this is true on our 4 cyl but its on this article here of 6cyl's.

http://www.zzperformance.com/blog/en...balance-shaft/

at the end of the day its fighting force with force to cancel out a vibration that would be caused from the engine as a whole as it operates.

so to say idle isn't effected is wrong also. it effects idle quite a bit.

 

browningderek has BF aka BR 272 cams though lol. those are slightly larger then kelford 280's i believe.

hit your apillers on the side window and see if your buzz goes away. when i do that mine goes away.. it must be the crappy *** design of the interior on these cars.. we can literally gut the entire interior in like 20min with our cars lol.

that's crazy, i hope you keep your timing pretty conservative. e85 with high compression requires lower timing. your car made nice numbers though and you tune it, so im sure its where it should be

i wish my compression was that high. im sure it feels very very responsive on e85.

 

Would an aftermarket crankshaft dampener help with the vibrations felt? I still have the stock one but am considering one. Especially if it helps with vibrations felt in the car.

 

no idea. i have a Fluidampr on my car.. i never felt it with the stock one with the 2.3, so i have no idea if it makes a difference. based on responses on the forum, it doesn't.

 

All 272 cams on the market because they are always turbo style cams will not have a bunch of overlap so the compression #'s wont vary much despite what i have seen people say on here.
Maybe some bigger S3's will make it drop.

tcomp, yes, my apillers buzz just like everyone elses. I even bought new clips but it dont help so dont bother. It seems to be ok with timing. I had -1,15* and i lowered the timing 2* and lost power everywhere. Then after the dyno i added a degree the topend and picked up 2mph. Now i run -1,16* at 40psi. I cant complain, i wish you could ride in my car... it hits sooo freakin hard it insane. My friend has a 2.3 whipple cobra with spray and he even said its an animial....

I am afraid of using an aftermarket balancer because i know how aftermarket parts are, very easy to take a step backwards.

 

I believe the crank damper is there to help quell vibration in the crank itself. Each firing event sends a pulse into the crank. I wish I knew if after market ones really help. The stock one looks cheaply made. but also looks like it would do very well for the job it has. heavier flywheels definitely absorb more of this energy. lighter flywheels allow more noise to transfer into clutch and drive shaft. the early 4g63 had 24lb flywheel. the evo 8/9 4g63 has 14lb flywheel. Going to even lighter after market flys dont make sense to me. they already maximized the weight loss here. AWD cars love heavy flywheels for a launch from dead stop. the early 4g63 yanks from a dead stop on very little rpm. I cut the ignition once at 5000rpm and sidestepped the clutch . car still jumps out with awesome force. its an eye opener for sure.

 

yep that sounds like a very good tune. i know how they hit downlow since i can produce near 600tq before 4500 in my setup, but im missing your top end.. which ive been in a car that went 142 (and best of 148) so i know what im missing.. the top end is amazing on bigger non stock frame turbos. if i ever step up ill be going hta86 for sure also. i am not changing setups though until i get this one over 140. so maybe never.

I like the heavier ones also because they can hold rpm higher longer. i had a light flywheel on my one 2g dsm and hated it.. the rpms dropped so fast. kept the stock one on my 1g and really enjoyed that car for a long time. one of my fav cars.

switching from twin to triple exedy on my evo i noticed rpm's hanging around longer also before dropping, which makes for smoother driving. i further delay it with idle air controller settings in rom.

i don't even remember what made me get the fluidampr crank pulley now that i think about it.. but i believe it does work better then oem, but no proof to back my claim up.

 

Not against them but the one thing that almost never gets taken care of if they are left in is the balance shaft bearings. They arent impossible to replace but they arent easy to do right. If you replaced them at the same time I dont see an issue other than one more belt to maintain. I personally dont like the idea of spinning anything twice engine speed and removed them. In the LR2.4 stuff the vibration is definitely minimised with just the little improvement in R/s over the 2.3/2.4 with the 1.50 R/s ratio.

 

Ah, so high compression AND the r/s ratio hurts..... the belt would be one more thing to watch over and one more thing to break. Still, i wonder.....

 

Like I said, just replace them and put a good belt on it. I believe Gates has a blue belt for the balance shaft belt also. If the RPMs are under 8500 it would work. I mean we spin stock bottom end motors that high. The Crazies spin them higher than that even.

Aaron

 

Thats exactly what i think. If i decide to do this im gonna get a 2.4LR from you and 2.4 balance shafts.

I guess what had me thinking about this is my friends cobra. Easy 700hp and it runs and drives like stock. If my evo ran like that i for sure will never get rid of this car.... GTR is another good example. I think its possiable to be smooth and fast. Never say Never! Now quoting the beiber....

 

oh boy...