After having over a month and a half of idling and starting issues in which I replaced the IACV, cam position sensor, MDP sensor, I found out the fuel filter was clogged with rust/dirt from gas sitting in the tank for over 2 years. I replaced the fuel pump and filter then the car fired up and drove great.

On Tuesday night, I took the car out to get a 2nd and 3rd gear log on Jestrs map and it did amazing. I let the car idle for a minute, then shut it off and didn't touch anything on the car until the next night. Went to start it up to get some vacuum pulls on it to finish the break in as I didn't get another image to write to the ECU that day. Car started then immediately died, tried again and did the same, 3rd time just cranked.

Next day, I tried 2 cam position sensors, the stock and Spoolin' Up coils and checked all the fuses with no signs of the problem. The plugs are dry and look good, pistons are moist but nothing major, fuel gets to the rail when cranking and has no CEL

Where should I look next?

 

I logged the engine cranking over to see if anything was out of place. Just sitting with the key "ON", the timing reads 61*. While cranking, I got numbers everywhere, RPM up to 8k and everywhere in between and the timing going to 200+. I have 2 very short logs of this if anyone wants to take a look, I have no idea where to start on finding the problem.

 

Checked out the crank position sensor to see of it was damaged and it looks fine.

Does anyone have any ideas on what to look for next? Lots of views and no input.

 

Rust clogged injectors? What's your fuel pressure?

 

Fuel comes out clean. This wouldn't cause no spark either way.

 

Here is the MFI diagnosis section.

http://www.evoscan.com/manuals/Evo9/GR00003100-13A.pdf

If you want to look at another section, paste the address and backspace to evo9/ and you'll see other sections listed.

N

 

check fuses in the engine bay and under the driver steering wheel. I blew a fuse under my steering that cut out spark and it caused it to not start good luck man.

 

I've checked every fuse twice and they're all good.

 

I tested the crank sensor with a simple test light, it had a ground from the black wire, constant 12V on the red wire, and picked up a signal from the blue wire while cranking via flashing test light. So I guess it's working but I still can't explain the numbers in the logs.

 

This is a prime example of why it's important to invest in a tuner with mechanical and technical ability. This forum has a number of them. These Internet re-flashes don't do a thing for you if your tuner can't help you diagnose your issues mechanically

 

The nearest shop/tuner to me in 270 miles away and I can't drive it there. The internet flash did get the car on the road, idling, and driving great on the 1st map I received.

 

This may sound dumb but did you make sure that you transferred over the immobilizer code on your last flash?

 

Everything is fine on that, I tried starting the car before I received the 2nd map in which it quit starting. It uses the same ROM, the tuner just tweaks it every time he/she get a log.

 

That wasn't necessarily my point. My point is that when selecting a tuner, even an Internet tuner, it's always a smart move to invest in someone with mechanical aptitude and experience in your engine platform to be able to work through your problems methodically and not just collect your money and not help you when you have a mechanical problem

 

Just a thought but would the immobilizer cause no spark and fuel? I have a new ECU to try out when I get off work and need to flash the new map to it but I'd like to disable the immobilzer all together until everything is working to cancel out any issues with that.