Can't pass 10spi - No boost leak
Remove the backup nut that resides behind the turnbuckle. That nut is a redundancy anyway. Crank the turnbuckle all the way down to where it bottoms and tell us how many threads are left showing on the actuator rod.
Oh and BTW, the stock DV may need to be crushed anyway in spite of the fact that you tested it to 23 PSI or whatever on the bench. That may be full open at that level, however they crack and start to lift much earlier. That is it may be halfway open by the time your boost gauge reaches 18-20 PSI. They can start to crack open at 11 PSI. Mine did.
Oh and BTW, the stock DV may need to be crushed anyway in spite of the fact that you tested it to 23 PSI or whatever on the bench. That may be full open at that level, however they crack and start to lift much earlier. That is it may be halfway open by the time your boost gauge reaches 18-20 PSI. They can start to crack open at 11 PSI. Mine did.
I don't think that the DV is your primary problem though. You started to have issues when you installed the new Forge actuator right? You had not experienced the problem before when your turbo was fitted with the previous(stock WGA???) actuator, right?
Did you install both the new actuator and the IX DV at the same time? Or had the car been boosting fine with the plastic DV? Had the car been holding boost with the stock, factory WGA as well?
Did you install both the new actuator and the IX DV at the same time? Or had the car been boosting fine with the plastic DV? Had the car been holding boost with the stock, factory WGA as well?
Last edited by sparky; May 17, 2012 at 07:20 PM.
I don't think that the DV is your primary problem though. You started to have issues when you installed the new Forge actuator right? You had not experienced the problem before when your turbo was fitted with the previous(stock WGA???) actuator, right?
Did you install both the new actuator and the IX DV at the same time? Or had the car been boosting fine with the plastic DV? Had the car been holding boost with the stock, factory WGA as well?
Did you install both the new actuator and the IX DV at the same time? Or had the car been boosting fine with the plastic DV? Had the car been holding boost with the stock, factory WGA as well?
The forge WGA has been on for longer, actually. I just decided to adjust my preload to combat a lazy spool. I realized that my wastegate was partially open at low boost pressure, so I preloaded it some more... then, this thread was made.
I just purchased a turbo and a OEM wga though. So we'll see where this goes
[QUOTE=MyronGainz;10170408]The IX Dv has been on for months. The system has been boost leak tested numerous times with it on. It was purchased to replace a leaky plastic bov.....The forge WGA has been on for longer, actually. I just decided to adjust my preload to combat a lazy spool. I realized that my wastegate was partially open at low boost pressure, so I preloaded it some more.../QUOTE]
Ok, so originally you had a "leaky" VIII plastic DV. Then you replaced it with a better IX DV. Independently you started adding preload to the gate so as to keep the flapper valve planted on its seat in an effort to improve turbo spool up.
You state above that your IX DV has been tested numerous times. Furthermore, I gather that these tests were a result of boost leak tests which you conducted. That is fine as far as it goes. A boost leak test are a good static test for verifying DV functionality in general, and DV max valve opening pressure. Fine.
However, a boost leak test per se is not quite as accurate at indicating the seat pressure at which valve first cracks. Furthermore, and as I mentioned it is basically a static state test. It measures IM pressure only. By definition during the boost leak test the engine is turned off and the turbocharger shaft is not spinning. Thus, a simple boost leak test does nothing to test the DV under the dynamic conditions in which as a practical matter it functions on your turbocharged vehicle.
When studying the DV function on your particular setup, the boost leak test does not really tell us the rate at which the valve itself is lifting, or as previously mentioned at what seat pressure it starts to crack. But the real reason as to why a boost leak test is only of limited value with respect to diagnosing DV function is because the boost leak test is static and one-dimensional. It only measures IM pressure.....The turbocharger shaft is not spinning, the engine's crankshaft is not rotating.
I have to run to work so I only briefly introduced my reasoning as to why the traditional one-dimensional, static, boost leak test does not really tell us much about how a particular DV is functioning on your turbocharger system when boost pressure is building, exhaust pressure is increasing within the turbine housing, the rate of rotation of turbocharger shaft speed is increasing, seat pressure at the flapper valve is increasing as you vary and adjust wastegate preload and so on..
Furthermore, I wanted to go on to explain how the DV is an integral part of and helps regulate the dynamic pressure differential on a turbocharged system. Maybe next time though. You can't just say that you boost leaked tested the DV to 23 PSI and assume therefore that everything is fine. Basically, I want you to throw out all your preconceived notions and think about it.
Sorry for the voluminous, yet incomplete OT post.......
Ok, so originally you had a "leaky" VIII plastic DV. Then you replaced it with a better IX DV. Independently you started adding preload to the gate so as to keep the flapper valve planted on its seat in an effort to improve turbo spool up.
You state above that your IX DV has been tested numerous times. Furthermore, I gather that these tests were a result of boost leak tests which you conducted. That is fine as far as it goes. A boost leak test are a good static test for verifying DV functionality in general, and DV max valve opening pressure. Fine.
However, a boost leak test per se is not quite as accurate at indicating the seat pressure at which valve first cracks. Furthermore, and as I mentioned it is basically a static state test. It measures IM pressure only. By definition during the boost leak test the engine is turned off and the turbocharger shaft is not spinning. Thus, a simple boost leak test does nothing to test the DV under the dynamic conditions in which as a practical matter it functions on your turbocharged vehicle.
When studying the DV function on your particular setup, the boost leak test does not really tell us the rate at which the valve itself is lifting, or as previously mentioned at what seat pressure it starts to crack. But the real reason as to why a boost leak test is only of limited value with respect to diagnosing DV function is because the boost leak test is static and one-dimensional. It only measures IM pressure.....The turbocharger shaft is not spinning, the engine's crankshaft is not rotating.
I have to run to work so I only briefly introduced my reasoning as to why the traditional one-dimensional, static, boost leak test does not really tell us much about how a particular DV is functioning on your turbocharger system when boost pressure is building, exhaust pressure is increasing within the turbine housing, the rate of rotation of turbocharger shaft speed is increasing, seat pressure at the flapper valve is increasing as you vary and adjust wastegate preload and so on..
Furthermore, I wanted to go on to explain how the DV is an integral part of and helps regulate the dynamic pressure differential on a turbocharged system. Maybe next time though. You can't just say that you boost leaked tested the DV to 23 PSI and assume therefore that everything is fine. Basically, I want you to throw out all your preconceived notions and think about it.
Sorry for the voluminous, yet incomplete OT post.......
Last edited by sparky; May 18, 2012 at 05:03 AM.
Incomplete post better than no post lol
But my question for you is this: If I tested the DV with a regulated compressor up to 23psi before it starts to open, and the car has seen 21psi-22psi regularly without it leaking for months. Is it possible for the DV to suddenly pick up such a terrible leak (in a matter of seconds) that it will only hold 10psi? If so, how do i go about isolating such an issue?
But my question for you is this: If I tested the DV with a regulated compressor up to 23psi before it starts to open, and the car has seen 21psi-22psi regularly without it leaking for months. Is it possible for the DV to suddenly pick up such a terrible leak (in a matter of seconds) that it will only hold 10psi? If so, how do i go about isolating such an issue?
Quick answer is...not likely. I am singing along with you in the choir as I basically agree that your problem is not DV related. More and more I am arriving at the conclusion that it is a WGA related issue.
My DV rant was mostly a spooky blend of inane academic banter and my own hillbilly logic. Too much coffee at 4:00am.
So, tell us, what turbo did you just purchase? Since you will only be running 23 PSI peak, then I think it would be a good idea to install and test the new turbo with whatever WGA it comes fitted with. You will thus have a great opportunity to test that new turbo's WGA and spring opening pressure on the workbench with a gauge and some sort of air pump/compressor. Preset WG preload to about 18 PSI. Once you have that combo installed, setup and road tested properly....then you can toss on the piston-style Forge unit and see if everything goes to hell......again.
My DV rant was mostly a spooky blend of inane academic banter and my own hillbilly logic. Too much coffee at 4:00am.
So, tell us, what turbo did you just purchase? Since you will only be running 23 PSI peak, then I think it would be a good idea to install and test the new turbo with whatever WGA it comes fitted with. You will thus have a great opportunity to test that new turbo's WGA and spring opening pressure on the workbench with a gauge and some sort of air pump/compressor. Preset WG preload to about 18 PSI. Once you have that combo installed, setup and road tested properly....then you can toss on the piston-style Forge unit and see if everything goes to hell......again.
Last edited by sparky; May 18, 2012 at 05:51 AM.
Hahah. Got a 8mr 10.5
Similar to what I have on at the moment. I also have a stock 8, good condition wga on the way.
You and I basically have the same idea, Im just a bit more convinced that it's the turbo. either way, my collection of new parts will hopefully put this issue to rest
Similar to what I have on at the moment. I also have a stock 8, good condition wga on the way.
You and I basically have the same idea, Im just a bit more convinced that it's the turbo. either way, my collection of new parts will hopefully put this issue to rest
You may be correct about it being a turbo related problem. I guess it is a possibility. Anything is possible. If turbo, then what exactly could it be?
You have checked your turbo for shaft play and wheel damage, have you? Are you thinking that the flapper valve might be severely warped? I recall a couple(2) cases on here where the flapper valve broke away from the pivot arm. But those two cases resulted in really low 7-8 PSI max boost level.
At any rate it is relatively easy to R&R the turbine housing and check WG functionality and turbine wheel health. I still think that it more plausible that your problem is related to that funky, overpriced, Forge Motorsports, piston-style DV.
Last edited by sparky; May 20, 2012 at 10:58 AM.
I only wish that your car was equipped with a VTA O2 dump. This would provide us with a precise, audible indication of when your WG flapper is cracking/lifting and perhaps even remaining fully or partially open. This info would eliminate a lot of guesswork in troubleshooting your turbo's hard to trace, low-boost scenario. FWIW, I am becoming increasingly convinced that the problem must be actuator or flapper related.
Shine on Brightly
Shine on Brightly
Last edited by sparky; May 20, 2012 at 11:03 AM.
I only wish that your car was equipped with a VTA O2 dump. This would provide us with a precise, audible indication of when your WG flapper is cracking/lifting and perhaps even remaining fully or partially open. This info would eliminate a lot of guesswork in troubleshooting your turbo's hard to trace, low-boost scenario. FWIW, I am becoming increasingly convinced that the problem must be actuator or flapper related.
Shine on Brightly
Shine on Brightly
But we'll find out later this week
Would, but the car is my daily. So I'm not gonna risk breaking any bolts at home. I'll just inspect the old unit when I replace it with the new one.
So a bit of an update, I installed the OEM WGA. Car boosts 8psi now lol
This honestly leads me to believe that we're looking at a wastegate issue. I think it's cracked open a bit, honestly. My next update will be post turbo install, most likely next week.
So a bit of an update, I installed the OEM WGA. Car boosts 8psi now lol
This honestly leads me to believe that we're looking at a wastegate issue. I think it's cracked open a bit, honestly. My next update will be post turbo install, most likely next week.
I am having almost the same exact problem, forge bov valve and all, although I have my turbo and exhaust and all that out on account of the engine being blown, if you tell me what I'm looking for I can look and hopefully solve both of our problems