Can't pass 10spi - No boost leak
May 27, 2012, 10:06 PM
#48
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Your wastegate flapper shows no issues at all? No warping, etc?
Did you ever try disconnecting the WGA line at all?
May 28, 2012, 04:15 AM
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Did you preload it when you installed the OEM WGA? Or, did you install the actuator w/o any additional spring tension? After install did you try increasing spring tension to see if it would rise above 8# base pressure?
May 28, 2012, 10:12 AM
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Guys, i dont know if i have a waste gate issue, but reading this thread i can say my car has similar issues. had cams, belts, metal dv, licp, and 23psi tune added to my car about 2 months ago. driving on the express way and boom, uicp came off. I bolt it back on and i get really lazy spool and only 18 psi. do a boost leak test and see that the tb and oil cap are leaking, so i redo the seals on the tb, replace pcv valve and oil cap. now my car is a little better and tops out at 20-21 psi, but still a lazy spool most of the time. i am going to do another boost leak test, but i think it could be waste gate or something. my mechanic also said my turbo had a little shaft play, what do you guys think?
Last edited by JustPorter; May 28, 2012 at 10:15 AM.
May 28, 2012, 11:02 PM
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Guys, i dont know if i have a waste gate issue, but reading this thread i can say my car has similar issues. had cams, belts, metal dv, licp, and 23psi tune added to my car about 2 months ago. driving on the express way and boom, uicp came off. I bolt it back on and i get really lazy spool and only 18 psi. do a boost leak test and see that the tb and oil cap are leaking, so i redo the seals on the tb, replace pcv valve and oil cap. now my car is a little better and tops out at 20-21 psi, but still a lazy spool most of the time. i am going to do another boost leak test, but i think it could be waste gate or something. my mechanic also said my turbo had a little shaft play, what do you guys think?
May 30, 2012, 05:11 AM
#53
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Assuming no boost leaks, I'd guess, FWIW, that your wastegate spring pressure is probably too low. What boost reading do you get if you do a WOT run with your EBC turned all the way down to the lowest possible boost setting?
In dealing with the AEM controller there are a couple variables which you should keep in mind. First off, when trying to resolve a slow spool or low boost issue it is a lot easier with a MBC instead of an EBC. At least for me it is as there are considerably less variables to account for. So, I would advise totally disconnecting the thing if at all possible, and working direct from compressor boost reference source to the WGA.
The AEM has its own solenoid. Also, there is the use of that cheap clear plastic tubing to connect to the back of the controller/gauge. So, first make sure that all of the additional connections are good and tight and zip tied.
Once you assure yourself that all those connections are leak free then you need to make sure that you have the thing programmed properly with respect to 1)WGDC and, 2) "cracking pressure". Note: Different programming settings and combinations tend to introduce a certain degree of variance. This is the "Fudge Factor".
The AEM controller is notoriously sensitive to swings in ambient air temps. If it was setup and functioning properly in the colder winter weather, perhaps now that summer is arriving the thing may have to be recalibrated, especially with respect to WGDC.
So, it is hard to tell right off the bat whether your problem is related to the physical connections on your hoses, could be boost leak related, could be an issue of WGA preload being to light, could be your AEM's own particular programming issue, or a connectivity issue with all the little hoses running into and out of the AEM controller, the AEM solenoid etc. Hard to tell.
In dealing with the AEM controller there are a couple variables which you should keep in mind. First off, when trying to resolve a slow spool or low boost issue it is a lot easier with a MBC instead of an EBC. At least for me it is as there are considerably less variables to account for. So, I would advise totally disconnecting the thing if at all possible, and working direct from compressor boost reference source to the WGA.
The AEM has its own solenoid. Also, there is the use of that cheap clear plastic tubing to connect to the back of the controller/gauge. So, first make sure that all of the additional connections are good and tight and zip tied.
Once you assure yourself that all those connections are leak free then you need to make sure that you have the thing programmed properly with respect to 1)WGDC and, 2) "cracking pressure". Note: Different programming settings and combinations tend to introduce a certain degree of variance. This is the "Fudge Factor".
The AEM controller is notoriously sensitive to swings in ambient air temps. If it was setup and functioning properly in the colder winter weather, perhaps now that summer is arriving the thing may have to be recalibrated, especially with respect to WGDC.
So, it is hard to tell right off the bat whether your problem is related to the physical connections on your hoses, could be boost leak related, could be an issue of WGA preload being to light, could be your AEM's own particular programming issue, or a connectivity issue with all the little hoses running into and out of the AEM controller, the AEM solenoid etc. Hard to tell.
Last edited by sparky; May 30, 2012 at 05:58 AM.
May 30, 2012, 06:18 PM
#54
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Disconnected the line from the boost source to run max. pressure, got 10psi
Preloaded the OEM WGA all the way down to the bottom of the rod tonight, I'll report back in tomorrow afternoon.
Still haven't found an available/competent shop to do the turbo swap for me yet
Jun 3, 2012, 07:29 PM
#55
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Well, good news and bad news.
Bad news is that I still haven't found a competent shop to do the swap for me.
The good news is that I did it myself today, along with an O2 housing and downpipe install. The problem is now officially FIXED.
The car boosts the way it should now, hitting peak boost around 3400rpm (as opposed to 4800) and going all the way up to 23psi.
I believe the problem was the wastegate flapper. Upon first glance there was no obvious problem with it. It looked as if it closed and opened normally. However, when I pushed down on the flapper arm to close the wastegate (the way a preloaded actuator would pull it), I realized that the wastegate itself sat cocked under tension.
With no tension at all, it sat evenly on the exhaust ports. With tension on the flapper arm, however, the flapper was seated closest to the arm, and slightly elevated on the other side, allowing exhaust gas to escape.
Thanks to everyone who gave their suggestions and ideas in this thread, especially sparky!
Bad news is that I still haven't found a competent shop to do the swap for me.
The good news is that I did it myself today, along with an O2 housing and downpipe install. The problem is now officially FIXED.
The car boosts the way it should now, hitting peak boost around 3400rpm (as opposed to 4800) and going all the way up to 23psi.
I believe the problem was the wastegate flapper. Upon first glance there was no obvious problem with it. It looked as if it closed and opened normally. However, when I pushed down on the flapper arm to close the wastegate (the way a preloaded actuator would pull it), I realized that the wastegate itself sat cocked under tension.
With no tension at all, it sat evenly on the exhaust ports. With tension on the flapper arm, however, the flapper was seated closest to the arm, and slightly elevated on the other side, allowing exhaust gas to escape.
Thanks to everyone who gave their suggestions and ideas in this thread, especially sparky!
Jun 23, 2012, 09:38 AM
#58
Has anyone else had this issue and resolved it? My situation is identical to the OP. Except with mine it happend after I pulled the whole turbo manifold 02 housing off cause I had a rattle on decel I could not figure out. Turned out I did not have the turbo clocked quite right so with the forge rod adjusted all the way down it was still slightly too long to keep the door shut. I reclocked the turbo and gave myself a little breathing room.
Prior to this I was happily boosting 15psi (base lancer SOHC) although I knew my spool was too laggy. After I put it all back together I boosted up to 18 psi on two pulls then it dropped to 15 then 13. My spool is much better now just I cant hit my 15 psi anymore. Everytime I tried to figure out the issue resulted in even lower boost eventually hitting 9psi. At the time I had the yellow spring in so I put in the blue spring thinking maybe the spring was bad. Bypassed my mbc (forge unos) which should have put my at 13-14 but nope still 9psi. I adjusted the rod all the way down (only 1 more full turn) and now I hit about 12psi but still with/without mbc 12 psi and cranking up the mbc does nothing. Any ideas?
Prior to this I was happily boosting 15psi (base lancer SOHC) although I knew my spool was too laggy. After I put it all back together I boosted up to 18 psi on two pulls then it dropped to 15 then 13. My spool is much better now just I cant hit my 15 psi anymore. Everytime I tried to figure out the issue resulted in even lower boost eventually hitting 9psi. At the time I had the yellow spring in so I put in the blue spring thinking maybe the spring was bad. Bypassed my mbc (forge unos) which should have put my at 13-14 but nope still 9psi. I adjusted the rod all the way down (only 1 more full turn) and now I hit about 12psi but still with/without mbc 12 psi and cranking up the mbc does nothing. Any ideas?
Feb 2, 2017, 08:21 AM
#59
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My issue is very similar to the ones you guys are describing. I have full bolt ons, 02 dump, walbro 450, fic 1450, speed density, 25g turbo, tuned to 30 psi hks exhaust camshaft. Can't boost past 20 psi. I hit 24 psi 1x n the. It just continued to drop. I'm gonna check my wg actuator bec it does sound like I am running semi open header. Thought the noise was bec of the oem header being semi ported at the runners. Any more suggestions would be great or any info on the fix would be greatly appreciated. Tia.
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