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Vr1 20w50 user?

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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 04:24 PM
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Arrow Vr1 20w50 user?

I heard many good things about Vr1, just wondering if there is different in their vr1 20w50 synthetic. Are they full synthetic? Cant find more info about their synthetic. Also synthetic seems little cheaper on autozone site?

For who using them, are you using non syn or syn?

Thanks
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 04:45 PM
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From: God waiting room
I'm using the non synthetic in my built turbo 350z in Florida with no issues if that helps?
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 04:54 PM
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I use it also. It's a cool blue color.
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 05:08 PM
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Vr1 20 50 non syntec. Works good for me. In my other car i rum valvoline 15w40 diesel oil.
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 05:27 PM
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Thanks guys. Any reason not picking up synthetic ones?
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 06:01 PM
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Far as I can tell... matter of choice really.. I ran non synthetic 20w50 shell oil in my evo no issues what so ever...only problem I found was actually FINDING the oil haha.. now I run braddpenn
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by EvoVIIIFL
Far as I can tell... matter of choice really.. I ran non synthetic 20w50 shell oil in my evo no issues what so ever...only problem I found was actually FINDING the oil haha.. now I run braddpenn
I guess you got me right answer.

Where you buying brad penn?
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Chef-j
I guess you got me right answer.

Where you buying brad penn?
I get it from either stm or buschur
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 07:50 PM
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I've been using this since my build and even though it's hard to find, it's worth it to me. I use synthetic, the black bottle. Sent a sample to Blackstone labs and the zinc content held up good so keeping it. The non synthetic is easier to find but never used it... The Grey bottle.
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Old Jul 1, 2012 | 03:38 AM
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I use Vr1 20W50 on my '92 Porsche 964 Turbo. It's a non synthetic oil and it needs to be changed every 2.500 miles or six months. It has a hight content in ZDDP, wich is neccesary for the Porsche (older engine). For the Evo, I think it's better a fully synthetic Motul 300V 15W50 or 5W 40 (high Zinc and Phosporous content as well). I put the 300V 5W40 in my Evo (Fp red at 1.8 bar).
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Old Jul 1, 2012 | 08:48 AM
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How about Shell rotella t-1?
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Old Jul 1, 2012 | 10:43 AM
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Got an email from them. Hope this helps to others.

"Valvoline VR-1 Synthetic Racing Oil*will give you several advantages over*the conventional Valvoline VR-1 Racing Oil product.
*
A synthetic motor oil is produced with finer and more uniform molecules that creates a motor oil with stronger*film strength yet allows the motor*oil to flow more easily inside your engine.*
*
This combination of stronger oil film strength and better motor oil flowability provides an increase in wear protection for your engine, oil breakdown resistance, deposit control for a cleaner engine, better cold start protection and*the possibility of*better fuel economy.
*
Valvoline VR-1 Synthetic Racing Oil and conventional Valvoline VR-1 Racing Oil*does have a limited detergent package which allows for a 3,000 mile oil change interval and both products should be changed at or before 3,000 miles.*
*
Valvoline VR1 Racing Oils meet or exceed the newest API SN rating but unfortunately do not carry an ILSAC rating so they are not ILSAC GF-5 rated.* Please take note that these products contain a high amount of ZDDP or*zinc and phosphorus*which can harm a catalytic converter and is not recommended for vehicles with a catalytic converter.*"
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Old Jul 1, 2012 | 06:18 PM
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Brad Penn info on zinc and phosphorus

http://www.penngrade1.com/Zinc.aspx
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Old Jul 1, 2012 | 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by EvoVIIIFL
Far as I can tell... matter of choice really.. I ran non synthetic 20w50 shell oil in my evo no issues what so ever...only problem I found was actually FINDING the oil haha.. now I run braddpenn
Ran 20w50 shell as well with no problems. Again, hard to find.
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 01:14 AM
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yup as long as your engine is built id run the vw1 20w50 40k on pump thus far. Id run a lighter viscosity if you have a stock engine maybe 10w40 or 15w40
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