Best options fro 2.4l shortblock
Best options fro 2.4l shortblock
i am in the process of finding a company to build me a 2.4l short block. i have gone back and forth till i have made myself crazy about standard rod vs long rod. i want the most reliable motor possible and would be willing to give up a few hundred rpm. just looking for what company you guys have used and liked or have opinions on
If you care about reliability definitely go with a LR,the whole purpose of the LR is to decrease side loading on the pistons and walls thereby reducing wear and prolonging engine life,on top of the fact you can rev a bit higher,the 2.4 is the best choice for the street imo,i built my own 2.4LR and i would never go back to a 2.0,Good luck
If you care about reliability definitely go with a LR,the whole purpose of the LR is to decrease side loading on the pistons and walls thereby reducing wear and prolonging engine life,on top of the fact you can rev a bit higher,the 2.4 is the best choice for the street imo,i built my own 2.4LR and i would never go back to a 2.0,Good luck
you can't go wrong with English Racing(just above) for a 2.4.
i am having one built by jacks' Transmissions myself,and everything is going well so far.\,great prices too.
i would say to be more selective when going with a 2.4.it seems some builders who do the 2.0 well are having difficulties with the 2.4.
i am going with the long rod version,but jack says he can get the short rod or the long rod to turn the same rpm's with a little extra machine work.
good luck with it.
i am having one built by jacks' Transmissions myself,and everything is going well so far.\,great prices too.
i would say to be more selective when going with a 2.4.it seems some builders who do the 2.0 well are having difficulties with the 2.4.
i am going with the long rod version,but jack says he can get the short rod or the long rod to turn the same rpm's with a little extra machine work.
good luck with it.
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Correct me if I am wrong but a 2.4LR requires a special water pump, headgasket, and bowel work to mate properly to a 2.0 head. I would prefer the 2.3LR, all off the shelf parts and head mates right up.
No special head gasket needed,i used an off the shelf Cometic gasket,and i know what water pump to use that don't need an adapter,and no bowl work needed to mate the cylinder head to the block.
No special head gasket needed,i used an off the shelf Cometic gasket,and i know what water pump to use that don't need an adapter,and no bowl work needed to mate the cylinder head to the block.
What is the skirt length compared to the standard piston. Why did blue91lx have weird wear with his lr 2.4. I am fully aware of the other things and have no core which is why I'm going 2.4. also i had heard that the longer dwel time of the long rod at TDC can possibly cause problems with lower octane fuel. now i want to go with a 9.7:1 cr since i am going to be on e85 all of 9 or so months out of the year. but will run 93oct at a lower psi so dont want to run into problems with detonation.
Last edited by bader; Aug 23, 2012 at 07:56 PM.
What is the skirt length compared to the standard piston. Why did blue91lx have weird wear with his lr 2.4. I am fully aware of the other things and have no core which is why I'm going 2.4. also i had heard that the longer dwel time of the long rod at TDC can possibly cause problems with lower octane fuel. now i want to go with a 9.7:1 cr since i am going to be on e85 all of 9 or so months out of the year. but will run 93oct at a lower psi so dont want to run into problems with detonation.
I don't see any problems wit detonation with the 2.4LR,i will be doing my high boost tune soon so i should find out soon enough,so far my 2.4LR put down 472@22psi on a Kinugawa 25g on 93 oct,and i didn't have to mess with timing all that much







