Hi,
can someone advise me on whether an oily exedy hyper single clutch be clean and re-usable?
Recently my 8 months old clutch starts to slip and we found out that the flywheel, clutch cover and pad was oily due to a leak on the flywheel oil seal....

The clutch disk is still at least 70~80% and hope it can be reuse after clean with a brake cleaner.

Please kindly advise

Thanks

 

No, the oil soaks into the material. Even if yor clean what you can see its still in the friction pads. It will never be what it was.

 

He's right I wouldn't try to clean it, the friction material is porous and sucks in the oil. I would just get a new disk while u have the tranny off anyway. Don't forget to check the pressure plate and flywheel with a straight edge to see of they are warped.

 

Thanks Guys and say, if the Pressure plate and Flywheel is slightly warp, can it be skim?

 

flywheel can be resurfaced unless it's an extreme. Pressure plate I don't think so. Not really sure how you would go about that. Someone with more experience in that area please chime in

 

I've yet to try an surface a pressure plate. Flywheel is okay to do, replace friction disk. Only time I've replaced a pressure plate is when the tension springs are damaged. The finger looking things. What you can do is get ahold of one of the venders and ask about a rebuild kit.

 

When I had my evo X I bought a CCI Stage 3 kevlar clutch and did a bunch of other mods that helped me reach 32+psi on the stock internals. Now with that being said, I failed to install a oil catch can at the time and ended up blowing my frail rear main seal. It leaked onto my flywheel and clutch bad enough to have a brand new and broken in clutch start slipping badly once peak torque was reached. I thought the worst. So, I pulled everything down, replaced the rear main seal while installing it the way mitsu should've done, and resurfaced the flywheel, cleaned it and reinstalled it. Afterwards, I resurfaced the pressure plate and brake cleaned the disk as best I could. But I took one more step, I began to heat up the disk with a butane torch just to get some surface heat in it, not to sere the material. I did this for about 30mins, let it cool completely, break cleaned it once more and installed it.

Once the install was complete and I took it for its first drive after all this, it still slipped quite a bit. In my discouragement I actually began to drive the car a little harder than normal just to allow it to slip just a bit and then letting it out. I also would purposely let out on the clutch hard during shifts to get the material from the disk transferred as quick as possible to the pressure plate and flywheel.

Here's where it gets good. So about a month after driving her like this I was getting on the highway and got into boost and noticed 3rd gear held solid all the way to 8500! Fourth slipped a little and 5th did the same! HOLEY MOLEY it was starting to come back! A month later and you couldnt even tell there ever was a problem. The following month I ended up getting a retune and found I was making 405awtq on the stock turbo and stock internals with a clutch that had previously been oil soaked to the point where it was literally black as opposed to the yellow it was supposed to be.

Moral of the story, EVERYONE I mean EVERYONE told me that clutch was trash but I pushed on and tired some old school tricks and it is still holding even after I sold the car. I sold the car last year and to this day it is still good and is the guy's daily driver. Give it a shot. Think about it like this, you save up for a new clutch while driving on this one after you reinstall it and then it starts to grip again and finally comes back to life, well, now you can use the money you saved for that clutch replacement on something else! Thats what I did.

 

Thank you so much Guys and dont i wish i saw Boostzealot thread earlier.

 

Searching for something and im sorry, but I gotta correct the incorrect information in this thread.

Clutch plates can be baked to remove oils or most forms of contamination.
Quartermaster did this for me before.

 

I had an old Ford that wouldn't hold a main seal and every time it leaked it soaked the clutch. I would put it against a parking stop and burn the clutch until it worked again. But on an Evo, with the amount of work required to pull the transmission, I would instead buy a replacement disc.

 

The man is right. Why do this job twice? Why sacrifice the peace of mind?

 

I have experience here as well. I had a carbon clutch disc get soaked in oil during shipment. it was otherwise a near new disc. I would say results will vary depending on what the friction material is. for carbon its impossible to get all the oil out. I first washed the disc is soap and water. then used carb clean. finally used a heat gun. using the heat gun the oil would oooze out in little droplets. I must have worked on the disc for four hours trying to get all the oil out. in the end I realized there was simply no way all the oil was going to come back out. I did install it for short time. it did not work well.