I've often wondered my Mitsu chose to use the pull style clutches. Are the pull types better than push types, maybe cheaper to make? I know I'm not alone here when I say that it's a PITA having to separate the pressure plate from the TOB when the tranny needs to come off. I personally replace the cage/wave springs everytime I take the tranny off because I have yet to not damage it. How come someone hasn't come up with a push type single plate clutch for the evo? Is it a bad idea? I know there are push style twin plates out there, but I don't want a twin. They just can't replicate the mileage that a single plate can. The HDSS that was on my car when I got it, I put 70k on it. Since it was on the car when I got it (the car had 55k at the time), I'll never know just how many more miles it actually had on it. It would be nice to have a twin with more friction material on it (so you could get more miles out of it), but I understand that there is only so much space a clutch can occupy inside the bellhousing.

Another reason I don't like pull types is because of the pedal adjustment. I have been to both ends of the CMC adjustment rod, and it seems that I have yet to find a sweet spot. It seems to me that if we had a hydraulic TOB from the factory, we wouldn't have to fiddle with adjusting the pedal so much. Imagine a world where clutches wouldn't drag, synchros would last longer, and shifts would be smoother. My friends Ford Focus uses a hydraulic TOB/push style clutch and it shifts like butter. Keep in mind that it's an '01 and he has shifted the shiz out of it, but it still feels great. I recently got a Motive power bleeder for my ss brake lines. The brake pedal is now solid as a rock because of that bleeder, so I bled the clutch line with it. Now there is absolutely no air in the clutch line anymore, just fresh fluid. I'm on a mission for that elusive sweet spot for the clutch once again.

What are everyone's thoughts on this? Show me a twin that I can get 30-40k from mostly daily driving with maybe a few passes at the dragstrip once a year or so, and you'll have my undivided attention.

 

Not a twin but my carbonetics triple got 40k and would still be running had a previous shop not screwed up the assembly/install

 

I'm looking up some info on ClutchMasters 725 and 850 series twins, and I think I found two that just might suit my needs:

STM:
7.25 twin, full street (2 fiber discs: 1 sprung/ 1rigid), steel flywheel, push type - $1800
8.5 twin, full street (same as above), steel flywheel, push type - $2160

They are both rebuildable, and have the makings for what I would consider to be the ultimate street clutch, just really fuggin' expensive. Exedy twins are cheaper, but they're still pull types I don't have the $ to do anything about it right now, but I do like to do my homework beforehand.

 

ive also seen exedy tripples get 28-30k thats one of the reasons i choose them over the quartermaster i think the reason you dont see the twins make it that long is people are over using the clutch and they are also not adjusted right from the start.

 

I remember reading something about how a pull type pressure plate gets more leverage and thinking at the time - so that is why.

 

the reason pull clutches are used is because they offer less pedal pressure for a given clamping force at the plate. all pressure plates flex. this flex makes the pedal harder to push on a push style pressure plate. on a pull clutch the flexing plate is like adding a spring booster to the pedal. less pedal pressure is the result.

stay far away from the 7.25 clutches. they should be sold to drag racers only as the friction material is an on and off switch not designed to be slipped. they have very short lifespan in stop and go traffic.

carbonetics makes the best clutches for daily drivers with limited to no drag use. the lack of wear to carbon friction material is remarkable. they make a single pro "blade" that is relatively new but held up to curt browns e85 2.3 powered black. held 650whp on dyno, but was not enough holding powa for drag use. the twin and triple carbons have been shown over and over to last stupid long time.

 

+100%

 

the twin and triple carbons have been shown over and over to last stupid long time.[/QUOTE]
I thought they didnt last a long time

 

Nah carbons are awesome... i just never had much experience with carbonetics but i know plently of people who do. my best bud is running the triple carbonetics on his IX and he made 730whp on c16 so its held up for him for a while now even running the car.

 

yep

 

I've never had to adjust the clutch pedal at all in any other car of mine which were all hondas except for an neon srt4. I think I've got the pedal almost where I want it. So any of the Carbonetics clutches would be a good choice then?

 

also check out south bend clutch i own a shop here in washington and have yet to have a bad experience. probably installed 50 or so

 

I grabbed this pic off the net a while back. It's a good illustration of how a pull type clutch has more leverage, as in less pedal pressure for a given clamping force.

 

I thought they didnt last a long time?

well I pulled my tranny today for first time in two years. I got to see my ATS carbon twin . I bought the clutch used with break in miles on it only. To my absolute amazement the clutch looks like the day it was installed. No wear on the friction material at all. I never had to adjust clutch in the past two years. There is virtually no highway miles driven. all hard city short drive lots of shifting miles. Nothing will outlast this carbonetic/ats friction material. It is hands down the best friction material made. Nothing comes close. amazed at lack of wear on carbon discs. there was no friction dust at all. usually have to hold your breath when removing flywheel bolts. dust flying everywhere. there was none at all. boths discs measure .0055 wear from new thickness.

 

Is yours a push or pull? I think I'm sold on this clutch. I wanna get the push type and use a QM hydraulic tob though.