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Slow crank after battery relocation

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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 08:13 PM
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Slow crank after battery relocation

So I put my battery in the trunk, first time I go to turn it on, it cranks slow but kicks over. I am using 1/0 gauge with a 180 amp circuit breaker. My battery was working fine up front so I know it's something I did, can a bad ground cause slow crank? I have the battery ground to a painted surface, I know that needs moved. Just wanted some outside input. Thanks
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Frew
So I put my battery in the trunk, first time I go to turn it on, it cranks slow but kicks over. I am using 1/0 gauge with a 180 amp circuit breaker. My battery was working fine up front so I know it's something I did, can a bad ground cause slow crank? I have the battery ground to a painted surface, I know that needs moved. Just wanted some outside input. Thanks
Yes, sounds like a weak ground is your problem. Also, make sure the battery clamps are quality, no screw down budget auto parts store cheapos. Buy pre-made clamp/cables or make your own with solder and a torch.
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 08:47 PM
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What he said. ^
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 04:12 AM
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Good idea, I'm going to do both of those things, ill let you guys know how it works out.
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Old Oct 22, 2012 | 05:07 PM
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grrrrrr, changed grounds, still slow cranks. Ideas guys???
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Old Oct 22, 2012 | 05:23 PM
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maybe its up front. I have a pretty crappy connection going from the 0 gauge to the stock location wiring. I might try switching that out.
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Old Oct 22, 2012 | 05:26 PM
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Im dealing with the same issue. I'll follow this thread.
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Old Oct 22, 2012 | 05:33 PM
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I wonder if others are having these issues? Maybe my new ground is now good either? I have to trouble shoot it next weekend.
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 09:47 AM
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Bump, any ideas?
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 10:07 AM
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Additional thoughts - Mine cranks great with a mini battery in the trunk. Either your battery is bad or there is a poor connection somewhere. Have you had your battery load tested? Do that first. Your positive wiring is plenty big enough. Make sure your negative ground is at least a 2 ga. Make sure you remove the OEM paint down to the metal at your ground connection to the body. I went to a strut mount bolt. Again, make sure you have soldered clamp connectors at the battery, not the cheap clamps that bolt the wire to the clamp.
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 10:13 AM
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He beat me to it^^
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 06:45 PM
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Ok, I am looking online and cannot find connectors for soldering. Anyone have a link, I found the the solder slugs.....
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Frew
Ok, I am looking online and cannot find connectors for soldering. Anyone have a link, I found the the solder slugs.....
Just go to NAPA or another local parts store and ask. They look like this...

http://sell.lulusoso.com/upload/2012...auto_parts.jpg


The pre-made ground cables look like this...

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=570486_0_0_
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Old Oct 27, 2012 | 08:58 AM
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And you can solder those ones in the first link? Do you just heat up the body with a propane torch? I think I figured out 90% of my slow cranking problem, I changed grounds to the bolt that holds the strut to the body and it cranks faster now, I think the battery just needs charged back up considering I don't think the charging system was working properly with the bad ground, I also have one sketchy connection up front that I am going to redo I bent a piece of flat steel to make the connection to the original factory fuse, I am going to replace that with a copper connection since I dont think they use steel for a reason with electrical connections. I will report back my findings.
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Old Oct 27, 2012 | 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Frew
And you can solder those ones in the first link? Do you just heat up the body with a propane torch? I think I figured out 90% of my slow cranking problem, I changed grounds to the bolt that holds the strut to the body and it cranks faster now, I think the battery just needs charged back up considering I don't think the charging system was working properly with the bad ground, I also have one sketchy connection up front that I am going to redo I bent a piece of flat steel to make the connection to the original factory fuse, I am going to replace that with a copper connection since I dont think they use steel for a reason with electrical connections. I will report back my findings.
Yes, those are made to solder to a cable and yes, use a propane torch. First, heat the end of the cable and let the solder wick into the cable. Remember, solder moves to heat when melted. Do not put the torch directly on the solder. Then, heat the connector and 1/4 fill the connector with melted solder. While the connector is still hot and the solder inside is still liquid, re-heat the cable again and push it into the connector. That way you will be assured the solder has good contact with both the cable and the connector, giving a very good connection. Good luck
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