Slow crank after battery relocation
Slow crank after battery relocation
So I put my battery in the trunk, first time I go to turn it on, it cranks slow but kicks over. I am using 1/0 gauge with a 180 amp circuit breaker. My battery was working fine up front so I know it's something I did, can a bad ground cause slow crank? I have the battery ground to a painted surface, I know that needs moved. Just wanted some outside input. Thanks
So I put my battery in the trunk, first time I go to turn it on, it cranks slow but kicks over. I am using 1/0 gauge with a 180 amp circuit breaker. My battery was working fine up front so I know it's something I did, can a bad ground cause slow crank? I have the battery ground to a painted surface, I know that needs moved. Just wanted some outside input. Thanks
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Additional thoughts - Mine cranks great with a mini battery in the trunk. Either your battery is bad or there is a poor connection somewhere. Have you had your battery load tested? Do that first. Your positive wiring is plenty big enough. Make sure your negative ground is at least a 2 ga. Make sure you remove the OEM paint down to the metal at your ground connection to the body. I went to a strut mount bolt. Again, make sure you have soldered clamp connectors at the battery, not the cheap clamps that bolt the wire to the clamp.
http://sell.lulusoso.com/upload/2012...auto_parts.jpg
The pre-made ground cables look like this...
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=570486_0_0_
And you can solder those ones in the first link? Do you just heat up the body with a propane torch? I think I figured out 90% of my slow cranking problem, I changed grounds to the bolt that holds the strut to the body and it cranks faster now, I think the battery just needs charged back up considering I don't think the charging system was working properly with the bad ground, I also have one sketchy connection up front that I am going to redo I bent a piece of flat steel to make the connection to the original factory fuse, I am going to replace that with a copper connection since I dont think they use steel for a reason with electrical connections. I will report back my findings.
And you can solder those ones in the first link? Do you just heat up the body with a propane torch? I think I figured out 90% of my slow cranking problem, I changed grounds to the bolt that holds the strut to the body and it cranks faster now, I think the battery just needs charged back up considering I don't think the charging system was working properly with the bad ground, I also have one sketchy connection up front that I am going to redo I bent a piece of flat steel to make the connection to the original factory fuse, I am going to replace that with a copper connection since I dont think they use steel for a reason with electrical connections. I will report back my findings.


