I am not really arguing. In fact, I agree with Robert at FP and with you that the FP 18# actuator is your best option for running the boost level that you will be running.

Your BB Red should spool a couple hundred RPM sooner than my JB Red. But, on a stock motor the Red is not known as a fast spooling turbo. This is not a secret.

 

For that reason, I would go with a Green or BBK. 450 whp is possible on 93 with good supporting mods. With a Red or Black, torquey cars like Mustangs will walk away from you off stoplights unless you do a lot of clutch slipping. With the Green/BBK, you can reach full boost in 1st gear. There's a huge every day real world difference. Don't get sucked into message board bragging rights or a bigger is better mentality. Do what will make your car the most fun to drive the way YOU use it.

 

I know alot of guys that go with green and try hit 475whp and they do but the TQ is so high that it blew up their stock block. Im using the red as a safety cuz i wont have so much low end torques which kills engines. Ive had tuners and well experienced evo guys tell me this. Btw i have two step and i dont race every mustang i see. Lol. But if i do i know most the stangs around here and none or them are even close to my power level. But i know its all about how fast u can get into power and how long u can hold it. The other thing is someday i will build my engin and than ill have a capable turbo for my build. But for now i think this turbo will be perfect. Which isnt the topic here anyways.... the topic here is wastegate actuator. Why do guys always so Off topic and give there .02 on the turbo???.

 

I beg to differ. Turbo choice is not OT in this discussion. You initially framed the topic header of this thread and the original post in terms of what actuator(s) will be better suited for your BB Red turbo. Therefore, by your own judgement, turbo choice is not irrelevant. To the contrary, your turbo/actuator combination together form a functional assembly. They are specifically designed, bolted together and attached to operate as a unit.

You can't discuss actuator choice comprehensively w/o also discussing the particular turbo to which that WGA is bolted and whose flapper valve, by definition, it will be controlling/actuating. This discussion must necessarily be inclusive, organic and integral. There is more to it than just checking a purchase order option box. If in fact this were not so, then why would you even mention the turbocharger in your original question?

 

I was just trying to help. A lot of guys on here just parrot what they read or what their "friends" told them. I've run 4 stock turbo variants and 3 actuators, as well as 3 forms of boost control, so I've been down these roads before. Just trying to show you some shortcuts.

By the way, if you want to avoid the torque spike with a smaller turbo, use a 3-port.

 

Enter me. Case in point.

 

I was just asking what actuator would be better. I get what ur saying but i have decided on the red for specific reasons. Im going with the 25#. Oh i forgot to put that i have a grimspeed 3 port ebc. Sorry. This thread can close now as i found calling my tuner at stm gave me a direct answer. Sparky people go off topic all the time on these threads just to make themselves sound smart. So u can spin it anyways u want but in the end my topic was actuator best suited for my DECIDED turbo and setup. Im sure now ill get some long off topic response about how i should look at this and how this brings me to that. But in the end i just wanted some suggestions on actuators not people questioning my turbo decision. Thanx but im out.

 

By the way i mentioned the turbo so u would know what turbo i was running. You can ask what actuator to run on a specific turbo if u state what ur goal is and what u use the car for. But im sure u will spin this whole response to make yourself look like a genius. I get ur just trying to help but when i stated what turbo i am going with, turbo selection should be outta the question cause thats my choice not yours.

 

Im taking my subscription to this thread off now as I got my question answered. So if anyone else wants to criticize my turbo selection feel free. The floor is yours.

 

In the end it almost doesn't matter what WGA you run. You could run a stock IX, or either of the two FP actuators. What's more relevant, is the spread between the preset spring pressure and your peak boost level. This, range affects the responsiveness of the boost curve especially on a relatively high inertia, albeit low back pressure turbo like the Red. This becomes even more critical on the smallish displacement stock block.

If the spread is too wide, your tuner can do whatever he wants with WGDC's and the like but the turbo is not going to be as responsive as a turbo preloaded to the optimal spring pressure which in your case should be right about 24 PSI. But, that's another story. I am going to bow out of this thread as well. I will miss you though.

 

Lol @ STM using a ebcs .

Zenoise, lighten up it is the Internet after all .

Your question was answered many times and as you can see its very subjective.

If it was cut and dry I would not have gone thru 3 actuators myself.

 

It is not so much an issue of choosing X as opposed to Y actuator. As a practical matter the issue, for me at least, became one of getting the Red to spool on a stock displacement engine.

Unfortunately, you can't just expect to slap X actuator on this relatively lazy turbo and call it a day. To me the true challenge was getting my JB red to spool the way I wanted(No, I haven't achieved it yet!).

Granted, the OP has a BB Red and it may spool a marginal 300 RPM sooner than my JB Red does. But, in the final analysis, 300 RPM sooner, although a step in the right direction, does not bring it into the realm of acceptable spool-up for me.

Being on a limited budget, I have decided to eventually swap the standard 10.5 housing out for a quicker spooling 9.8cm piece(i.e., see the note in my sig). I did try to get my JB Red to spool the way I want via adjusting spring pressure with my FP 18# actuator. Furthermore, I hacked about 1/2" off the tip of the rod and installed a shorter turnbuckle, but to no avail.

How, far did I go in adjusting the spring pressure on the 18# actuator? I preloaded it to 25# of spring pressure for a 26 PSI peak. With that much preload it looked to spike and overshoot my target. Probably the spring was binding preventing the pivot arm from fully rotating. Or, alternately the bypass port(s) in my unported housing was unable to bleed off sufficient exhaust flow.

 

HAHA I came back to look at this to humor myself and of course, we got this guy giving me a life lesson.

Just sitting here looking at the "Zenoise, lighten up it is the Internet after all ." and shaking my head and

Thanx for the tip bud, for a while I thought this was Tron.

 

I hate it when my cheerios taste funny, apparently you enjoy it.

 

Clever! Looks like anyone who responds adds flavor to his Cheerios lol.

Ps go 25 psi wga

Sparky was literally trying to stop you from buying the wrong turbo and use the wga to fix the issue when the turbo clearly could help you out. I know STM likes the red does that have any influence on your decision?

What did STM tell you to do?

They're great guys and they know how to make a stock block last. Probably why they like the red.