Hi guys, just been searching for about 2 hours for people that run the Green HTA73 on a factory 2ltr Block. There isn't that much as you guys seam to love massive Turbos and lots of boost.

Im currently getting 24psi at 4300rpm on my 2ltr with a green HTA, 25psi actuator (max preload adjustment) Factory exhaust manifold, Plasmaman LICP with cast outlet, 3" 02 housing and 3" exhaust, 3" metal intake with HKS POD using a 3port boost controller controlled from the ECU.

if I put it in 3rd gear at 2500 to record a log, WOT the boost slowly comes on and hits 24psi at 4300... which I think is quite laggy.. Max power is 225-230kws (300-308hp)and 330-340nm (243-250ftlbs) of torque. The turbo is unreal coming back onto boost after a gearchange as the rpm is high... Its just the Initial Turbo lag that sucks..

How much boost can these early 4G63's handle (1998 EVO5 with 90,000kms/55,000miles) On pump 98 (your 93)


is E85 ok to use or will it kick a leg out of bed?

 

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Tarmac: When you write, "max preload", just what is that in terms of spring pressure (PSI)? Agreed that if you aren't seeing 24# peak boost until 4300 RPM, then she is spooling lazily indeed. How exactly are you controlling boost, what BOV is on there, and what exactly is WG spring pressure?

If you are running 24# peak, then WG spring should be set up near 21-22#. The FP 25# actuator with zero preload will be full open by 18# in most cases if you slap it onto the car with no extra tension. If you are running a stock metal diverter valve then you can crush it to help spool.

 

my 71hta/84mm/19psi wastegate didnt hit max boost until 5500 rpms - 28 psi

So I found out I had massive boost leaks after 25 psi. My crappy homemade leak tester was junk. I purchased one from boost leak testers.com and was able to fix the 7 different boost leaks.

 

Hey guys, i have done a boost leak test and replaced throttle body gasket and shaft seals, aswell as replacing most silicon joiners on the intercooler piping.

When i first put the "1.7Bar" actuator on i wound up the rod to as short as it can be (to have Maximum preload) i was only seeing 1.4kg/cm2.

I have a 3port boost solenoid controlling boost with the ECU, its a greddy one that was with an electronic boost controller. It works fine.

 

 

So, come on, tell me what you actually mean when you state that you adjusted the WGA to maximum preload. How did you determine what "maximum" is anyway? Setting ideal preloaded spring pressure is different from setup to setup.

24 PSI @ 4000+ is way laggy for a Green. This be a journal bearing, not a ball bearing Green isn't it? But still, even for a JB Green this seems sluggish. I see 22-24# by 3700ish on my journal bearing Red(stock block), which is, by law, way slower spooling than your Green. If my Red spooled as slow as your Green does, I would ship it back to Roberto. If I bought a Green and it spooled as slow as yours...I would douse it in Ronson lighter fluid and take a match to it.

I know that you think you have maxed out that actuator...but you haven't. First off, remove the backup nut located behind the turnbuckle on the threaded tip of the actuator rod. Now, with the backup nut removed, proceed to rotate the turnbuckle in clockwise until the tip of the actuator rod bottoms out inside the turnbuckle. That is still not maximum preload. But, it will do for a start.

 

Hi sparky, the nut is still attached but Theres no more adjustment as we have no more thread.

 

Lovin' that picture. Thanks! If you were to remove the backup nut, you can't rotate the turnbuckle down any further? You already tried this trick and you weren't able to get any more travel down the threads....

If that is in fact the case, then we need to resort to Plan B. You guys need to cut approx. 3/8" off the threaded end of the actuator rod and run it w/o the backup nut. The backup nut is a redundancy anyway. It is merely a placekeeping device. Kinda like a bookmarker for readers who can't recall what page they were on when they set their book down last night.

I think that 3/8" equates to about 3 threads. This will allow you to run the turnbuckle down a couple more rotations. I inevitably get admonished for suggesting this trick. People who don't appreciate additional preload start quoting Testament. But, everything has its place in the cosmic order. If you worship quick spooling turbos, then this is one simple shortcut method.

Just don't say that I told you, or you'll get me in trouble. When all else fails remember that this is Bare-Knuckles EvoM. It aint the Howdy-Doody Show, Captain Kangaroo, nor The Mickey Mouse Club.

 

Haha ill give it a shot this arvo mate and let you know!!

 

Hmmmm car is still laggy in 2nd and 3rd..massive initial boost spike 2bar+ (28psi) theb it goes back to 1.8bar (25ish).
We turned the boost down and im Still getting the big spike, but only in high load applications.. 4th and 5th, then it tapers to 1.7bar

Some 3rd gear pulls it will only hit 21psi then drop to 18, others it spikes.

Did another compression test too

145-145-150-150

Cylinder leakage of 15% across the board

 

Do you still have a stock diverter valve on there. I am jut trying to get an idea of what other modifications you have done to the car? Stock cams and gears? What exhaust from the turbine housing outlet flange, on back? Have you ported the turbine bypass port(s) to help flow out through the wastegate flapper yet? Did you mention how you are controlling boost?

Give me a chance and I'll have to go back and reeread your thread. Is Fosters the only beer in Australia or do they have micro-breweries there as well?

 

Don't just jump to the conclusion that your creep issue is WG related. Or, that the creep is related to the lagginess. There are a variety of possiblilities that can cause or contribute to boost creep.

When you think about it, lag and boost creep are strange bedfellows. They usually don't appear together. I'll have to think about this some more.

 

I am going to switch over to PM's as the kids on here must be real fed up with my troubleshooting methodology by now. I'll shoot you a PM.

 

The kids will be fine Fosters is **** (actually never tried it) Carlton Draught is the way to go, full strength but I drink corona's.

Mod list:
standard 4g63 with 90,000kms
FP HTA73 Turbo (bought 2nd hand)
Kando 1.7Bar wastegate actuator
Plasmaman LICP and turbo outlet (they are the best, made here in aust.)
3" GTpumps dump/02 outlet (also made here in Aust.)
3" Turbo XS exhaust with oval muffler
FIC 1050's
Standard plastic Blow off valve, installed backwards so it doesn't vent!
straight 3" metal intake with HKS rockcatcher

boost is controlled by a Greddy 3port solenoid through the ECU

 

Installed backwards so it won't vent? Like you put it on so it doesn't even do anything but block air?

First thing I would do is throw that piece in the trash and get yourself a nice metal version BPV.

Also are you tuning the car? What are your settings for boost control in the rom?