Engine Rebuild advice needed !
One thing i learned about building my engine....next time I’m going to buy one that’s already assembled and machined. You won't be spending much more, unless you have a good machinist that will do the work for cheap.
My advice: Contact Buschur or M.A.P and buy a built short block. All the thinking is already done for you.
My advice: Contact Buschur or M.A.P and buy a built short block. All the thinking is already done for you.
I can see MAybe getting by with a dail indicator, plasti gauge and a good torque wrench and lube. would need to hand file the rings, and youll need a caliper and micrometer. and a great set of Feeler gauges. Or as the old folks call em, Go/No go gauges
Last edited by blowngasket; Feb 13, 2013 at 06:05 AM.
خوش! You can definitely build this engine yourself if you want, and if the satisfaction and knowledge are worth the time and patience to work it all out go for it. There are a number of people on this forum who have done it themselves and many books published on high performance engine building. Read, read, plan, plan, and do nothing until you are confident with each step, part, and have a good machinist. Good luck!
^this, If you dont have all the tools to check tolerences and clearences, dont bother trying to reasseble it. Its not as easy as just puting a main bearing down and torquing it. You have to make sure bolt Strech is correct, and then the mains/rod bearings have to have proper oil clearence or this engine wont run 1km. Youll also need to make sure to check the crank clearence for crank walk. Proper Ring end gap also needs to be checked and rechecked. Good luck.
I can see MAybe getting by with a dail indicator, plasti gauge and a good torque wrench and lube. would need to hand file the rings, and youll need a caliper and micrometer. and a great set of Feeler gauges. Or as the old folks call em, Go/No go gauges
I can see MAybe getting by with a dail indicator, plasti gauge and a good torque wrench and lube. would need to hand file the rings, and youll need a caliper and micrometer. and a great set of Feeler gauges. Or as the old folks call em, Go/No go gauges
خوش! You can definitely build this engine yourself if you want, and if the satisfaction and knowledge are worth the time and patience to work it all out go for it. There are a number of people on this forum who have done it themselves and many books published on high performance engine building. Read, read, plan, plan, and do nothing until you are confident with each step, part, and have a good machinist. Good luck!
I already have 800cc injectors, one thing i missed is a software called HEX editor. Its used for decoding or something. I have some ones ROM image of ignition timing and the values are going in -ve after boost. e.g -5 , -7 , -10. What is this -ve does this -ve shows the degree retard BTDC ? but why its written in -ve ? thats a confusion.
Those ignition tables are extremely conservative, I suspect that they were made for a low grade type of fuel!
The value in paying an experienced shop to rebuild your motor is in the fact that they have built XX or XXX of these engines and countless others and know what to look out for when putting them back together. Again, the difficulty is not in disassembly or even reassembly, it is in the requirement of measuring tolerances, clearances, judging surface finishes, etc.
If you have someone experience who can give you input I would go for it, but from the sounds of it you do not, and furthermore you have not done the reading/research to have all the knowledge yourself.
My two cents...
Evolving Member
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 326
Likes: 2
From: Driving ten under in the passing lane, right turn signal on at all times.
It is not so much the fact that it is difficult for a novice. The engine is held together with nuts and bolts -- trained monkeys can turn nuts and bolts and I would not be surprised if you could teach a monkey to take a head off a block.
The value in paying an experienced shop to rebuild your motor is in the fact that they have built XX or XXX of these engines and countless others and know what to look out for when putting them back together. Again, the difficulty is not in disassembly or even reassembly, it is in the requirement of measuring tolerances, clearances, judging surface finishes, etc.
If you have someone experience who can give you input I would go for it, but from the sounds of it you do not, and furthermore you have not done the reading/research to have all the knowledge yourself.
My two cents...
The value in paying an experienced shop to rebuild your motor is in the fact that they have built XX or XXX of these engines and countless others and know what to look out for when putting them back together. Again, the difficulty is not in disassembly or even reassembly, it is in the requirement of measuring tolerances, clearances, judging surface finishes, etc.
If you have someone experience who can give you input I would go for it, but from the sounds of it you do not, and furthermore you have not done the reading/research to have all the knowledge yourself.
My two cents...
Thanks for your valuable input guys.
I am thinking of putting a 6 puck ACT clutch with stock pressure plate. Will the stock pressure plate support the 400+ bhp i aiming at ? or should i opt for act 6puck and pressure kit?
The reason going for stock pressure is the soft feel of the paddle. At this time no twin plates or triple plates.
I am thinking of putting a 6 puck ACT clutch with stock pressure plate. Will the stock pressure plate support the 400+ bhp i aiming at ? or should i opt for act 6puck and pressure kit?
The reason going for stock pressure is the soft feel of the paddle. At this time no twin plates or triple plates.
well see if this help you out , i know its not an 2.0 but just to give you some thoughts what is needed
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/al...o-9-build.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/al...o-9-build.html
well see if this help you out , i know its not an 2.0 but just to give you some thoughts what is needed
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/al...o-9-build.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/al...o-9-build.html
I read through everything and I didn't see a single thing about having the cylinders honed. I hope you realize that putting new pistons and rings you ABSOLUTELY NEED to have a machine shop do this. There's a specific angle that it needs to be in the cylinders to seat the rings properly. That cross hatching is extremely important. Even if there's still some hatching still in the cylinders the microscopic edges need to be sharp in order to seat the rings. As soon as the motor starts for the first time the sharp edges on the rings knock those edges down. The angle that is put in there is very specific. A stone hone on a drill is not good for this AT ALL! If you were rebuilding a lawn mower I'd say go for it. But even the motor in that needs to be honed. I guess what i'm trying to say is that, if the rings don't seat you're gonna hate life. so do it right!
I read through everything and I didn't see a single thing about having the cylinders honed. I hope you realize that putting new pistons and rings you ABSOLUTELY NEED to have a machine shop do this. There's a specific angle that it needs to be in the cylinders to seat the rings properly. That cross hatching is extremely important. Even if there's still some hatching still in the cylinders the microscopic edges need to be sharp in order to seat the rings. As soon as the motor starts for the first time the sharp edges on the rings knock those edges down. The angle that is put in there is very specific. A stone hone on a drill is not good for this AT ALL! If you were rebuilding a lawn mower I'd say go for it. But even the motor in that needs to be honed. I guess what i'm trying to say is that, if the rings don't seat you're gonna hate life. so do it right!
So what is the exact criteria for getting the cylinder honed ? Is there any thumb rule for cylinder honing ? every time we change pistons we need cylinder honing whether it would be after 2000 kms or 20 000kms ?
For the installation of rings and their angles the wiseco instructions will be followed.
You guys are lucky you have quality machine shops and machinery at your disposal while we lack such support. So we have to do things with what ever resources we have. I absolutely endorse all your concerns but the fact remains i have to take that much risk with my motor.
I read through everything and I didn't see a single thing about having the cylinders honed. I hope you realize that putting new pistons and rings you ABSOLUTELY NEED to have a machine shop do this. There's a specific angle that it needs to be in the cylinders to seat the rings properly. That cross hatching is extremely important. Even if there's still some hatching still in the cylinders the microscopic edges need to be sharp in order to seat the rings. As soon as the motor starts for the first time the sharp edges on the rings knock those edges down. The angle that is put in there is very specific. A stone hone on a drill is not good for this AT ALL! If you were rebuilding a lawn mower I'd say go for it. But even the motor in that needs to be honed. I guess what i'm trying to say is that, if the rings don't seat you're gonna hate life. so do it right!
You should read this please.
http://uk.answers.yahoo.com/question...1085243AAHCmni









