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Engine Rebuild advice needed !

Old Feb 18, 2013 | 07:27 AM
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From: Streets of willow



Oil pump and its mark
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 07:28 AM
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From: Streets of willow
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 07:30 AM
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From: Streets of willow


Tensioner
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 07:31 AM
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 05:32 PM
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From: Streets of willow
Originally Posted by BURNALL_4
I will once i get home tonight good luck with your build!
Ill crank up the engine in a few days. What steps should i follow before that?

Oil to be used at temps 30C - 35C? What oil pressure will i see after this?

After first start for how much time i need to start and idle it?
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 06:18 PM
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Turn the crank with a socket before starting the engine. also. did you spin the crank after assembling the shortblock to make sure it spins freely and dosnt feel like its to hard to turn by hand?
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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 12:46 AM
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From: Streets of willow
Originally Posted by sktng22
Turn the crank with a socket before starting the engine. also. did you spin the crank after assembling the shortblock to make sure it spins freely and dosnt feel like its to hard to turn by hand?
Yep i did that part, it rotates freely and smoothly.

I have to first take out the plugs, and disconnect the injectors and crank the motor for 7 to 8 secs and the fire up the engine.

Mineral based oil for first start up and change ? and synthetic for the brake in ?
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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 12:49 AM
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From: Streets of willow
Originally Posted by Duo Maxwell
It is not so much the fact that it is difficult for a novice. The engine is held together with nuts and bolts -- trained monkeys can turn nuts and bolts and I would not be surprised if you could teach a monkey to take a head off a block.

The value in paying an experienced shop to rebuild your motor is in the fact that they have built XX or XXX of these engines and countless others and know what to look out for when putting them back together. Again, the difficulty is not in disassembly or even reassembly, it is in the requirement of measuring tolerances, clearances, judging surface finishes, etc.

If you have someone experience who can give you input I would go for it, but from the sounds of it you do not, and furthermore you have not done the reading/research to have all the knowledge yourself.

My two cents...
Check the timing marks mate.
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 07:00 AM
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UPDATE!

started the car for the very first time after rebuild.

Car idling at 800 RPM
Water temperature 87C
Oil temperature 93C after an hour
Oil pressure at the start was around 4 BAR later dropped to 1 BAR
Fuel Pressure 38 Psi
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 07:05 AM
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From: Streets of willow
Looking for 6 puck clutch and pressure plate kit.
Which one should i opt for ? ACT Xtreme or Spec R ?
or ACT clutch with stock pressure?

Also looking for a good wide band. Reviews about NGK Afx or ECM Lambda Pro ?
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 05:40 PM
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So you installed everything without the new clutch? That is a boat load of extra work. Congrats on the build.
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 06:42 AM
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From: Streets of willow
Originally Posted by batty200
So you installed everything without the new clutch? That is a boat load of extra work. Congrats on the build.
My current clutch is working fine but i want to switch to ACT or spec R.
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 06:18 PM
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From: Streets of willow
Update *

After the rebuild the car experienced a vibration problem, it started to occur at almost around 2500 rpm and vibrated till 4000 rpm. On diagnoses we found out that it was the balance shafts that were causing all the vibration.

The parts that i installed are.

Balance shaft removal kit, [ stub shaft ]
Fluidamper
TIMING BEARING
Tensioner bearing



Last edited by mines5; Oct 8, 2013 at 06:23 PM.
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 06:44 PM
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From: Streets of willow
For stub shaft installation
- Balance shaft can be taken out and also the balance shaft bearings by just opening the front and timing side foundations, no need to take the engine out if you find it difficult.

- We first installed the Damper pulley with b.s still inside the engine.
As a result the vibration which occurred at 3500 rpm only appeared at 4500 rpm.

- Installed stub shaft + new timing bearing
Vibration is now only 10% [ if you notice it very carefully ] as compared to balance shaft and that too at 4500 rpm.

No idle vibration
No humming
No vibration at 3000 rpm.

Still going through the running in process did 1200 kms, stub shaft installed after 1200 kms.
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 06:55 PM
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Things observed after stub shaft installation

- Oil pressure @ idle with balance shaft = 6 bar [cold]
- Oil pressure @ 100 C [ECT] with balance shaft at idle = 1.1 bar

- Oil pressure @ idle with stub shaft = 6 bar [cold]
- Oil pressure @ 100 C [ECT] with stub shaft at idle = 1.1 bar

- At 1500 rpm hot and cold with stub shaft oil pressure hits 3-4 BAR
- After the installation of the stub shaft RPM becomes smooth and throttle response is more crisp.
- Before balance shaft removal one of the lifters was making some noise but after stub shaft installation that noise has also become very less.
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