i've been all over this site for a few days and can't really find what i'm looking for. simple question:

am i better off with Beehive springs and stock retainers

http://www.maperformance.com/map-bee...l#.UPsBO2e1yrA

or an upgraded standard spring/ti retainers?

http://www.maperformance.com/brian-c...l#.UPsBOWe1yrA

my IX is a daily driver. i do 2-4 HPDEs per year. i have no real need to rev over the OEM rev limit.

my engine is stock, Greddy 264 EasyCams, stock IX turbo, 3" TBE, MBC, and a tune. i'm trying to keep it simple and fun.

however.. i may be adding an FP Black, injectors, and fuel pump.

opinions or links (i'm sure i missed something on this site), guys? thanks!

 

with those cams and low rpm limit, stick to something cheaper, but good quality like these. no need for aftermarket retainers.

http://www.maperformance.com/gsc-pow...l#.UPsFgifAcb4

 

that's along the lines of what i was thinking. i'm more about response, fun, acceleration, and getting out of corners fast. i don't spend much time at 7k RPM, so will never go with a larger cam. in fact, the only reason i haven't gone with the FP Black yet, is that i do not know that my cams/RPM limit will pull much of the potential from the turbo. if i go big like that, i wouldn't be happy without 400WHP.

so, the turbo issue is up in the air.. the valvetrain is coming out while i do my rings/bearings/head anyway, so figured i may as well upgrade the springs to be on the save side. my engine components currently have 115k on them.

 

hmmm

 

I've got the MAP beehive springs with stock retainers along with GSC S2s. I haven't done any real racing, but for daily driving and spirited runs they function just fine. I was trying to stay in budget and they fit the bill.

 

I've heard quite a bit of the same thing. I wouldn't even swap, really, but my mileage is pretty high. besides...maybe the bug will bite me some day and I'll go with a larger cam....then I'll be ready.

 

The biggest real reason for upgraded springs is if you are going to be revving higher. Faster ramp rates might be better off with stronger springs but the stock 8- 9 EVO springs are pretty stout.

On a second note an FP black would be way overkill for your application. a BB green or BBK-BB will work better and give you more torque in the middle of the powerband while still staying in the stock rev limits. Much better drivability on the street as well. Will they work with uprated springs..yes but not necessary

Milburn

 

so what about swapping springs just because they have a lot of mileage? if they're not really a wear item, then that saves me $200.

 

Springs do develop a memory, which means they are a wear item. I would recommend replacing them, with something new, Stock OEM/or an aftermarket beehive that works with OEM retainer. Especially if you want to run a larger turbo and turn up the boost.

 

noted. thank you.

 

Remember a broken valvespring is not something to chance. The valve drops your bill goes from $370+install for the springs to: a new bottom end, new cylinder head, new valves, and at the point the springs/retainers anyway.

aaron

 

I had springs in my budget anyway, so no biggie. May as well have a completely new head.

 

Remember when you have the springs installed, to subtract max boost pressure from installed seat pressure of the spring. What is left will control valve motion.

So if installed seat pressure is 80lbs, and your max boost is 25psi then you have 55lbs on the seat.

 

interesting.. i didn't think that far ahead. are you saying that i should choose my springs based on seat pressure? what would be a good net pressure to aim for?

i'll most likely stay with the stock turbo. i don't remember running much more than 21psi, i believe. but i'm not sure.. it's been a few years since i've owned an evo and i have yet to ask my tuner.

 

Seat pressure is only one part, RPM, Valve weight, ramp speed of the cam, cam lift, along with boost pressure all have to be factored in when choosing springs.

The ramp rates and lift of the cam between a Kelford 272 and a BC272 is different, so require different springs.

So is the seat pressure and the over the nose pressure needed for an engine spinning 7000 RPM and one spinning 10,000 RPM

From what you have posted

Greddy 264 Easy cams (10.3mm Lift)
21 psi
Factory rev 7200

Based on that little info, I would recommend the The MAP Ultimate Duty beehives, Seat @ 1.50" = 85lbs and run the factory retainers.

It is a tad stiff, but will help of you miss a shift and over rev, or you go a bit higher on the boost.