So I decided to do a rebuild of my 2.4l and now im having idleing issues. I used stock injectors for my break-in and now that im finished I want to install my FIC 1350's again. I unhook the battery, install the 1350's, and load my rom for them that I had before rebuild and it starts and then immidiately dies. The AFR guage reads dashes. If I give it a little throttle it will stay running at around 2000rpms but still have dashes for my afr's. I tested all of my injectors and they all seem to be spaying good so could it be that since I have my car set to idle at 1000rpms the car is dying not giving it a chance to relearn the fuel trims? When I reinstalled the stock injectors the afr's were dashes but it lowered itself down to 14.7 as it idled. The car did stay idled the entire time without haveing to give it any throttle though. The only mods I made during the rebuild was a ported Intake manifold, ported throttle body, and full blown double pumper, but everything else is exactly the same as the last build as far as mods and engine specs. Any help would be great.

 

so you switched injectors without rescaling them?

what fuel pump did you have in there before the double pumper?

fuel pump hard wired?

 

My rom is scaled for them because I drove on them before the rebuild. I had one walbro 255 before the double pumper and yes they are hard wired with individual 15 amp fuses

 

Keep your foot in it lightly till it warms up and see if once your warmed if your idle AFRs improve and it stays running. I assume your on SD. With your new rebuild it drastically changes AFRs until your rings seat. I think your MAF vs coolant temp table needs to be adjusted to add more fuel while idling in open loop.

 

Yes I am on SD. ill attach my rom. As I said though before rebuild my car idled and drove on this ROM without issues. My motor is now fully done with break-in and has synthetic in it so rings should be fully seated.

 

I cant read your rom right now cause im at work, but i am interested to know, that if once your at a operating temp if your afrs get bettter and you stay running/idling.

what im thinking might happen is when its starts to gett warmer your afrs will start to richen out. if they do then you should just need to adjust the maf vs coolant temp table.

 

so try rasing my idle to 2000rpms so the car stays running and let it idle for like 25 mins?

 

i would say 1500 rpms and until the coolant temp in evo scan reads 130ish then let your foot off and see if it reads anthing more than (---) im assuming your using the aem UEGO.

I see your up in the cold areas of the northeast.

 

if you can open both roms in 2 seperate windows. one with the stock injectors the other with the 1350 injectors.

find the MAF COMP and open it up from both roms. make the 1350 FIC MAF COMP table match the stock injectors MAF COMP table. That is if they are different of course.

 

Ok ill give that a try...i leave work in a few so I should know by 5 or 6 if this will work.

 

My maf compensation tables are the same but the maf comp vs coolant temp tables are different...

 

^^^

Pull you MAF vs coolant from your stock injectors rom and put it on your 1350 fic rom. Then you should be good.

That table determines how much fuel to deliver based on temperature of coolant.

I bet the numbers on the right side of that Column are higher for the stock injectors vs what's In the 1350 FICs right side.

Also the the left side of that column is coolant temp those should match on both roms already.

Make sense?

 

stock injectors on the left and 1350's on the right

 

make the right MAF vs Coolant temp match the left MAF vs coolant.


your 1350 FIC is set to be pretty lean on cold start up, thats why your leaning out so bad that it stalls out.

 

Ok ill give that a shot