3rd gear grind. during quick shift at high rpm
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From: st paul/mpls MN
3rd gear grind. during quick shift at high rpm
just had a new clutch put in my evo. Car is an 06 MR, 53k miles, with about 15-20k on the trans. I have a shep 5 spd conversion with ultimate gear ratio trans. I had an HDSS clutch, and now have an HDG6 (thought I was buying the same clutch based on receipts I had from previous owner). Regardless, the clutch is decent. Drove the car for a few hundred miles, no issues.
Now I have started driving the car harder and I am grinding 3rd gear at 6000+ rpms at 2/3 throttle or more. It will go in like butter if I am adamant about going straight into gear, but if I do a sort of power shift were I cut the 2-3 at and angle, it will grind. I can do the same cut at lower RPMS/throttle and have no issue. I have no lockout, we have adjusted the shifter plate on the trans, adjusted pedal and the car is still having the issue.
I am driving it the same as I did with the previous clutch and I never had an issue for the 2.5 yrs I owned the car.
I trust my mechanic and have a good local shop to repair the syncro if we get to that point, but I hate to pull the trans if it is any easy fix that I am not aware of. Only thing I have found reading through the forums is rebleeding the clutch, but doubt this would resolve a gear specific issue.
I just think it is odd this happened after a clutch install. A syncro going bad at this time just seems too coincidental. previous clutch was replaced because the center hub had a rivot let go.
Now I have started driving the car harder and I am grinding 3rd gear at 6000+ rpms at 2/3 throttle or more. It will go in like butter if I am adamant about going straight into gear, but if I do a sort of power shift were I cut the 2-3 at and angle, it will grind. I can do the same cut at lower RPMS/throttle and have no issue. I have no lockout, we have adjusted the shifter plate on the trans, adjusted pedal and the car is still having the issue.
I am driving it the same as I did with the previous clutch and I never had an issue for the 2.5 yrs I owned the car.
I trust my mechanic and have a good local shop to repair the syncro if we get to that point, but I hate to pull the trans if it is any easy fix that I am not aware of. Only thing I have found reading through the forums is rebleeding the clutch, but doubt this would resolve a gear specific issue.
I just think it is odd this happened after a clutch install. A syncro going bad at this time just seems too coincidental. previous clutch was replaced because the center hub had a rivot let go.
Last edited by Zivman; Mar 3, 2013 at 07:35 AM.
Make sure you know the proper bleed and adjustment procedure for Evo's. It's kind of odd. You can find the proper procedures on this site.
If all else fails, buy a short slave cylinder rod or shorten the stock one. That fixed my slight grind issue with my HDSS clutch.
If all else fails, buy a short slave cylinder rod or shorten the stock one. That fixed my slight grind issue with my HDSS clutch.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 146
Likes: 1
From: st paul/mpls MN
Make sure you know the proper bleed and adjustment procedure for Evo's. It's kind of odd. You can find the proper procedures on this site.
If all else fails, buy a short slave cylinder rod or shorten the stock one. That fixed my slight grind issue with my HDSS clutch.
If all else fails, buy a short slave cylinder rod or shorten the stock one. That fixed my slight grind issue with my HDSS clutch.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 146
Likes: 1
From: st paul/mpls MN
for those that were interested. it was the sychro. nothing like paying labor to pull and reinstall trans twice in a month, but hey, I guess I kind of signed up for these types of shenaniganswhen I bought a mitsu. On the positive side, Parts were cheap and I have no more grind under load/high RPM. what I find odd is that under all other driving conditions, 3rd gear shifts feel exactly the same
Before:
dead Synchro. It lost its clearance between the gear and synchro and won't free spin itself to be able to get in that gear smoothly. Resulting in a grind when shifted in the gear quick enough.

after:
new synchro. Even while I put down pressure on it, you can see the gap between the gear and synchro. This allows the synchro to move freely on its own and grind free.
Before:
dead Synchro. It lost its clearance between the gear and synchro and won't free spin itself to be able to get in that gear smoothly. Resulting in a grind when shifted in the gear quick enough.

after:
new synchro. Even while I put down pressure on it, you can see the gap between the gear and synchro. This allows the synchro to move freely on its own and grind free.
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