Every block I have had apart, have these marks. I was told not to worry about them years ago, so I dont lol.

 

Early morning bump.

 

That's pretty normal wear on a cylinder. The reason it is located where it is? Think about how the rod moves as the crank turns. The stroke of the crank, combined with the angle of the rod, causes the piston to push a little harder into those sides of the bore as it goes up and down. That's what causes the wear in that location.

If I were looking to build this block for max effort, big power (700+) I would do a light hone through the block and see how it cleans up. More than likely I would put new pistons in it as well because I like a tight seal on a fresh motor.

But, if I were just looking to have a nice all=around driver or weekend toy in the 300-400hp range, I would probably still take it to a machine shop and have them look at it. Put a micrometer in the bores to make sure they are still round, and go from there. If the bores are round and I was trying to to it as cheaply as possibly, I would probably just reuse the pistons with no hone in the cylinders. You might consider a new set of rings, but then just slap it back together with some fresh bearings in the bottom end and away you go.

 

Pretty much my plan sub 400hp track toy. I just want to clarify that I understand the dark area is normal wear, but the lighter pitting area within the darker area is my concern. My track duty engine of 120k miles does have the normal dark wear, but doesn't have the lighter wear within the darker areas. I understand the reason for the wear, but the different color flake/pits has me intrigued.

I understand that everyone has seen the dark wear areas, and it is normal. But has anyone seen the lighter markings within the dark area?

Thanks!

Cb

 

You haven't seen it. Trust me for my current budget it's toast. Melted piston 4 and took a 3mm deep divot out of the cylinder wall...cheaper to by used and refresh vs salvage the old block.

 

Within reason, yes, but the blocks are getting harder to come by, and more expensive. That block can be saved and ready for use for ~400$.

 

True, but you then add in the rotating assembly and thing get pricy. I got a great deal on a used long block for the price of saving and building the orginal. Don't worry I have plans for the old block, but 6 months without a car and track season starting here in the south...I'm itching to get the car back on the track lol

 

Looks normal to me. If you are taking the rotating assy apart, i would do a light hone and a new set of rings, check clearances, etc, and be on your way. Good luck.

Aaron

 

Thanks Aaron!

Lunch time bump.

 

Bumpity

 

Afternoon bump

 

Hi Craig,

I think those are from side wear. the light patches might be a little galling off the aluminum piston skirt if it is low enough on the wall. You might pull the pistons out and check the rings where the damage is occuring to see if you have ring land issues. check to see if the piston squirters are intact and working properly

I believe a quick light hone then re-fitting new rings and checking the end gaps, filing to get them into spec would be good maintenance. Cross hatch is still visible too.

By any chance have you removed the balance shafts? Congrats on the nuptials too.

Milburn aka WRC-LVR

 

Milburn!!

First off thanks, married life is awesome!

I was thinking of removing the balance shafts, seeing as it will be a track duty car. what are your opinions?

I should be pulling everything apart this saturday, so I will let you know what I find.

Cheers!

Hope all is well!