Hey guys I’m going to be installing my New QM 8 leg street clutch kit this weekend. Before I go ahead I had a few questions.
First thing I was wondering about is clutch pedal adjustment. Is there a point at which I should start at for adjustment? I Purchased an adjustable clutch pedal stop and found some information on how to set it up but was wondering where I should start with the clutch pedal adjustment. Where should the clutch start grabbing in the pedal travel?

Second thing I was wondering about is the clutch restrictor pill. The pill is still there. I’m guessing this is something I should be eliminating while I’m in there?

I was told the clutch kit does not come with mounting hardwarefor the TOB so I opted to go with the optional install kit that MAP offers. The install kit from MAP also comes with a clutch alignment tool. I found it strange that the clutch kit doesn’t come with an alignment tool. Is the tool actually needed for install?

Other than my questions above do you guys have any other suggestions for the install? From what I have read, it’s important to measure the TOB clearance to make sure it is in spec. Some people were saying the instructions are a little unclear so I’m hoping I can figure it out. Any other tips are greatly appreciated!

 

You eliminate the slave cylinder where the restrictor pill is located and replace it with the hydraulic TOB assembly. The instructions tell you to measure the distance from the engine block to the fingers on the clutch and also the distance from the face of the transmission to the face of the hydraulic TOB. I forget the exact way the formula is written but its backwards. We called QM about this but the tech didnt seem to want to be bothered by our call, it was kind of a turn-off for them to have no concern that their detailed instructions were wrong and we wanted clarification before we installed the clutch without their math making sense. If its a brand new assembly, there is a 99% chance that it will not need any shimming.

I believe the correct formula was:

(TOB-to-tranny measurement)-(engine block-to-clutch fingers measurement)= remaining gap.

If memory serves me, the acceptable gap is around 0.160-0.180".

I have found that setting the clutch pedal to the stock height from the factory clutch pedal-stop allows enough travel to not have any clutch drag and not over-extend the hydraulic TOB. I have never noticed that they didn't come with an alignment tool since we usually have a million of them at the shop. I'm trying to remember how the middle clutch hub assembly gets centered in the clutch to recall if the alignment tool is necessary but odds are good we probably used an alignment tool even if it wasn't necessary, out of habit.

-Jamie

 

Thanks a lot for the reply that is very helpful! For some reason I thought the restrictor pill was in the clutch master...As for the measurements and calculations I have heard from multiple people that they are written backwards. Can anyone confirm the correct calculations?

 

Bump, getting ready to do this job soon, anyone with some more advice?