Any resolution on the issue?

 

We have checked everything and no answers. I disconnected the ebcs and connected the wastegate line to the jpipe line as suggested and boost decreased to 5 lbs.
For FP:
Benjamin Norman
Serial number R69074454
I will do another boost leak tomorrow and will test wastegate with pressure tomorrow to watch it myself

 

try it with the MBC to see if you can get any boost. If you do, there's something wrong with the electrical issue. I have same issue. I can't get boost with 3 port, but the car is fine with MBC. GL

 

I like this approach. Furthermore, the 5# that he is seeing, makes me scratch my head.

 

Just boost test the whole system, then did individual sections and did boost tests in reverse. I can't find one leak. I hooked up the MBC same thing 10lbs max. I am waiting for the system to cool and I am taking the wastegate off and pressure testing it's opening point in 2 psi increments. After that I may have to send back to FP. I had found metal flakes in the intake a couple months ago after I got it on a let it idle. I didn't know if it came from old turbo or current. I checked the shaft it has up and down shaft play no side to side.

 

Testing the actuator on the bench with a bicycle pump is s waste of time IMO. You don't want to waste your time. You just want to boost higher.

 

Disconnect the EBC, or BCS, or whatever you have. By disconnecting it I mean unplug the hose that is connected to the j-pipe and plug thebopen end with a golf "T". Also, disconnect the hose that is connected to the WGA and likewise, plug the open hose end. Do the same disconnect proceedure if you are using an MBC. I want the boost control device out of the loop.

Run a length of 4mm vacuum hose from the j-pipe nipple to the actuator nipple. Loosen the backup nut behind the turnbuckle at the threaded end of the actuator rod. Remove the cotter pin or circlip that secures the turnbuckle to the flapper valve's pivot arm. Pry the actuator rod free from its home on the flapper's pivot arm.

Once free, rotate the turn buckle inward, clockwise 4 complete rotations reattach the actuator rod thus shortened and take the car for a test spin at WOT in 3rd or 4th. Report back the boost reading.

Dont do the bicycle pump test and dont remove the turbo or send it back to Texas. I just recently helped a guy with an HTA 71w/an 18# WGA with a similar problem. I have helped a bunch of peeps with low boost issues. 85% of the time it is actuator related. Usually adjusting or modifying the actuator solves the problem.

 

I just did as you suggested, followed every step still only 10lbs. I'm at a loss for ideas.

 

Sounds mechanical at this stage IMO, waste gate flapper not sealing maybe? Worth checking before you send it off. As suggested before take hotside/comp cover off and check for turbine/compressor wheel contact.

 

Everything at this point is coming off for inspection and if I can't find anything I will call FP on Monday and send it back for inspection. The turbo is about 5 months old, and I have logged maybe 100 miles on it if that probably 75. I have talked to everyone I know and I have tried everything I can think of. Would anything internal in the valve train cause this? The engine runs super at idle and at wot.

 

Don't get desperate just yet please. We have only done the first step so far. There is more to it if you would just bear with me. This will only take a few minutes and it msy save you having to remove the turbo etc.

So, you say 10#. Fine. Don't panic. We are not finished yet, mate. Pop the actuator arm away from the flapper's pivot arm again. Rotate/Remove the turnbuckle off from the tip of the actuator rod. Remove the backup nut. Reinstall the turnbuckle w/o the backup nut and thread it all the way down until the tip of the actuator rod bottoms out inside the turnbuckle. Remount the actuator rod and go for a WOT run.

Note: Now, it is going to require a lot more strength to pull the tip of the actuator rod onto the peg. So you may want to recruit your arm wrestling champion neighbor for this event.

 

Michael has the tolerances on the shaft axial end play. He posted them up in another thread. But, the turbo even with minimal endplay should boost over 10#.

How high did you pressurize the system for the boost test? Did you take it up to 30 PSI?

What DV is on your Evo? If stock metal IX MR DV, has it been crushed?

 

I pressure tested a little over 20 lbs. I have metal evo 8 MR crushed valve then borrowed a buddies brand new MR bov. Tried both exact same result. I am taking the exhaust off to see if there is anything clogged. I drove it alittle last night on the highway and it couldnt make boost in 6th gear. I had Gsc 1 stage cams installed by a pro, could that have anything to do with it

 

I am still convinced that your issue is actuator related. I am not trying to take a position contrary to Michael at FP merely fo the sake of argument either. I have no axe to grind and openly acknowledge that FP makes an excellent product. They are true Evo 16G innovators making excellent turbos and the FP 18# HD actuator is the industry standard....the very best.

Having said that....if your charge air system is not leaking, turbo is fine, no preturbo exhaust leaks, no boost leaks whatsoever, etc. And the turbo cant boost over 10#, then the problem is WGA/flapper related.

Your flapper valve is full open at #10, otherwise the turbo would boost higher. The flapper is opening and bypassing enough exhaust at 10# to stop any further increase in shaft speed. Otherwise, with the flapper closed boost would keep climbing past 10#. So, the flapper is open.

 

To convince yourself, bwhy not just wire the flapper totally shut: block the actuator rod from moving, or otherwise prevent the flapper from lifting at all? Boost should increase.

If you don't believe me then install an open dump. The open dump will let you know audibly at what PSI the flapper valve is lifting.