Like title says I have a continuing oil contamination issue. I purchased a crank from Jackson Auto Machine. It was milled and balanced and polished. When I replaced the pistons and rods (wiesco/manley) I installed the crank W/ new ACL Main, rod & thrust bearings. I purchased the over sided bearings recommended by J.A.M. and ran the car. shortly after then about 2500 Miles later the FP Green turbo was ruined. the cause... oil contamination caused the journal bearing to wear resulting in massive shaft play. I pulled the block apart only to find that the new bearings that only had about 2500 miles on them where ruined as well. (Sorry no pics)

I then replaced the bearings again and went back to stock turbo (used) Using the same crank but again new bearings. After 600 miles The new Hydraulic tensioner failed causing bent valves. I have then decided to go through the hole car and make changes. I am back now to getting the block back together and again have found premature ware on the bearings. I found in the number 2 and number 1 rod bearings a deep groove number 3 bearing appears to have a round dot.

I'm confused as to what could be causing this. What is the best procedure into clearing the assembly of any debris issue. Any help I can get I am extremely great full for. I'm looking for the most financially friendly fix, and as soon as possible as I'm on a time crunch.

Thanks,
Steven

 

Only thing I can think of is the oil cooler. Are you re-using the stock oil cooler or have you replaced it already?

 

Possibly a badly machined crankshaft. You mentioned it being milled and having to use oversized bearings. I have read of improperly turned cranks eating bearings before. Continuing with the post above, did you replace the oil cooler? It can catch debris and release it back into the system later.

 

and also did you change the oil pump? and around the oil pick up and pan?

 

Hey,
I did reuse the Oil cooler, I did clean the living F... out of it with my shop solvent tank and a lot of brake clean after I ran it through for well over an hour seemed spotless but I guess it is possible to still have debris with in.

I was thinking the crank myself chewing them up as I didn't find much debris in the oil pan it seemed pretty clean. I am running pretty tight clearances so even the smallest piece of debris could be fatal

I did replace the oil pump and the oil pick up seems to be free of debris so in not to sure it oil starvation. I think it could be a combination between bad machined crank and contaminates floating around from the first build.

What are some ideas as far as rebuilding and keeping this issue from happening again. I am thinking about having the crank machined again but not sure if I can mill it again. Also using transmission pan magnets to help catch debris as well as magnetic drain plug and magnetic filter. I will replace the transmission cooler. and oil pump.

Ideas?


Thanks,
Steven

 

Reusing the oil cooler is/was the nail in the coffin.

 

As Travis said, the contaminated oil cooler was the devil in the detail...

 

Ya, it was against my better judgment, but my machinist said it might be ok 50/50 he said and as all my friends know. I'm a gambler.

I have tore down the block to bare block the crank is going to get jet blasted and myced turned if possible. the block and mains will be checked and bearings will be sized and purchased I will also get the block decked and cleaned in and out.

My only question at this point is how many times can the mains rods and head ARP studs/bolts be torqued?

Thanks,

 

To save 400 dollars is never worth it. I found debris in my oil cooler, filter, and under the rockers. Pull off the front cover and oil pump as well. Contaminents can get caught in your crank as well. Any passage oil is found is a place where bearing material can be found. Easiest and cheapest will be to replace oil housing, filter, oil lines, oil cooler, front cover.

 

ya I am replacing everything and having things cleaned. I already got a cover and pump I also and going to replace the oil cooler and lines. Any ideas where I should relocate the cooler as well as making new lines and how to route?

Thanks.
Steven

 

4ea -8AN 90 degree hose ends
~5 feet -8AN hose
2ea 18MM x 1.5MM to -8AN male adapters
2ea 1/2NPT male to -8AN male fittings for the BM oil cooler
BM oil cooler (same as the one in STMs kit, I dont have the PN handy)
~3/4" wide aluminum strips available at most hardware stores to make a bracket. It will fit in the same location as the stock one.

You're welcome

 

Hey Travis,
Thanks for the post I've been looking for a good yet economical oil coolers. I do have plans on making a lot more lines like... Brakes, Power Steering, Catch Can, Coolant Overflow, Ect.... Do you have any recommends on good manufacture for -an lines and -an fittings other then Earls (seems to be the most common) I know Goodyear has a line of hose. I want to use all the same hose manufacture for all the lines. The brake lines need to be -3an and seems -3an hoes and fittings aren't so easy to find in Flexible SS braided hose.

Thanks,
Steven