So it looks like I can use the K1, Manley, or the OEM.

 

I used a factory one in my 2.4.

 

search manley or k1 crank failure on google... then look at the price... judge that against what a local or not so local machine shop will charge you to balance your oem crank knife edge the weights and if your feel really crazy cross drill it... i dont know if anyone has tried to cross drill on a 2.4 crank...


in the end... buy a windburg...

 

Do not try to knife edge an OEM 4G64 crank as they are weaker than 4G63 cranks. Knife edging is great for maximum revs but not so good for maximum reliability.

 

I just googled really quick. I didn't really find anything. I used OEM in my first build. Depending on boost and mileage the OEM could crack on the 4th journal over time. I got a manley for the insurance this time. It was only 600 bux. Thats cheap compared to a new motor rebuild.

 

manley has had some issue with their cranks cracking, they said they have fixed the issue but who knows. oem cranks works good. 4g63 and 4g64 cranks are made out of the same material, forged the same way, thus being just as strong, the only difference is the 64 cranks take a bigger beating with the longer stoke, this is why some people have had issues snapping the 64 crank. at the end of the day it all comes down to how much money you have and how your going to drive your car. best bet ofcourse would be a billet crank, but be ready to dish out 1300 bucks for one.