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Bad Compression Test, Now What?

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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 07:33 PM
  #16  
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From: Oc
He didnt , he said "except to the one I got 135psi"...so he didn't add to that one.

He only added to the other 3.
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 07:34 PM
  #17  
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From: Oc
He added oil to all EXCEPT that one.
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 07:42 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by barneyb
Its going to be down in power and maybe run a little rough. If that's not bothering you, drive it. So, agree.
Ok, cool, sounds like this is the general consensus, but at what point will I need to rebuild it? How will I know when that is?

Is there any risk of blowing the motor if it continues to get worse, or will I just start to notice loss of performance and running rough?

I will start saving for a rebuild. Would I be able to do drop-in pistons and rods or will I need to pull the motor and have machining/honing work done to the block?
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 07:46 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Jerry321
He added oil to all EXCEPT that one.
Jerry321, Can you please stop making multiple posts like that. Just put all your thoughts into one post. If you forget to say something, just edit your original post and add it to that.
Thanks.
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 08:08 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by TurboTylerIX
Ok, cool, sounds like this is the general consensus, but at what point will I need to rebuild it? How will I know when that is?

Is there any risk of blowing the motor if it continues to get worse, or will I just start to notice loss of performance and running rough?

I will start saving for a rebuild. Would I be able to do drop-in pistons and rods or will I need to pull the motor and have machining/honing work done to the block?
The engineers at Mitsu have isted in the service manual where they think overhaul is a good idea and you are there. The other school of thinking is ride it until dead and then deal with it. If your engine has broken a ring it is now scoring a cylinder which will require boring to a bigger diameter.

Another thing to think about is how the engine got in this condition in 50K. If it was raced a lot then maybe expected. Otherwise something is wrong with the tune or the fuel injection.

Last edited by barneyb; Sep 17, 2013 at 08:12 PM.
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 09:47 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by barneyb
The engineers at Mitsu have isted in the service manual where they think overhaul is a good idea and you are there. The other school of thinking is ride it until dead and then deal with it. If your engine has broken a ring it is now scoring a cylinder which will require boring to a bigger diameter.

Another thing to think about is how the engine got in this condition in 50K. If it was raced a lot then maybe expected. Otherwise something is wrong with the tune or the fuel injection.
All great points, thanks!
It is odd that the motor is in this condition with on 51k miles. I wish I would have done a compression test right after I bought it with 21k miles on it so I would know if its my fault or previous owners.

I assume that knock would be the cause for worn/broken rings?

This is my daily driver and only car... I would probably need to buy a block and build it up that way the swap is faster. (I do the work myself).

Any recommendations on bottom end parts? I guess I should probably talk to guys like English racing or Buschur...
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 05:44 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by TurboTylerIX
All great points, thanks!
It is odd that the motor is in this condition with on 51k miles. I wish I would have done a compression test right after I bought it with 21k miles on it so I would know if its my fault or previous owners.

I assume that knock would be the cause for worn/broken rings?

This is my daily driver and only car... I would probably need to buy a block and build it up that way the swap is faster. (I do the work myself).

Any recommendations on bottom end parts? I guess I should probably talk to guys like English racing or Buschur...
Knock would cause the top of the pistons to come apart, the combustion chamber to damage. Usually rings wearing out is from running rich. The extra fuel washes the oil off of the cylinder walls and causes the rings contacting metal to metal and hardens them.

Bottom end parts will need to be decided on what your power goals are. This will also dictate your PTW and rings gaps before the build starts. Do you want a stroker or keep it a 2.0L?
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 06:01 AM
  #23  
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Your problem could be either broken or worn rings, or a ring or 2 stuck from carbon buildup. If carbon is the culprit seafoam may help you, add 1/2 can through the blow off valve hose the other 1/2 to the motor oil.
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 06:03 AM
  #24  
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Reading comprehension is always optional on evom. ;-)
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 08:39 AM
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Man those are low miles to be like that. I have 112, 000 on my 05 VIII. I did a compression test a couple of weeks ago and got 170, 171, 173, 171
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 08:51 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by evoIXcencal83
Man those are low miles to be like that. I have 112, 000 on my 05 VIII. I did a compression test a couple of weeks ago and got 170, 171, 173, 171
Wow, nice man, you've got a healthy engine. Those seem like high numbers... what does the service manual say for the evo 8? is it different from the 9?
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 08:59 AM
  #27  
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I did 8 turns per cylinder hot. Im not sure of the spec for the 8, but I know those were good for any motor. BTW I recall someone mentioning seafoam. I use seafoam once a year. I use almost 2 cans. I pour one in with a full tank. The other I suck through the brake boost vac line and save the last 1/3 I pour in the oil. The first time I did it and test drove it; felt like a new car.

Last edited by evoIXcencal83; Sep 18, 2013 at 09:05 AM.
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 09:02 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by evolve_VIII
Knock would cause the top of the pistons to come apart, the combustion chamber to damage. Usually rings wearing out is from running rich. The extra fuel washes the oil off of the cylinder walls and causes the rings contacting metal to metal and hardens them.

Bottom end parts will need to be decided on what your power goals are. This will also dictate your PTW and rings gaps before the build starts. Do you want a stroker or keep it a 2.0L?
Ok, that makes sense, thanks!

What is PTW?

I probably want to keep it 2.0L and reuse my crank, just new pistons and rods.
Power goal is 600 whp capable (dont know that I'll ever get there, but just in case)
Wiseco pistons? Manley Turbo Tuff Rods?
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 09:08 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by cfdfireman1
Your problem could be either broken or worn rings, or a ring or 2 stuck from carbon buildup. If carbon is the culprit seafoam may help you, add 1/2 can through the blow off valve hose the other 1/2 to the motor oil.
Crossing my fingers for carbon buildup!

I'll look more into the seafoam thing, its definitely worth a shot and can't hurt.

On a side note, I was having issues with breakup on boost and I noticed bad gas mileage. This was going on for a while beacause I didn't know what it was and was lazy to do any research about it. So I figured out that my spark plug gaps were too big. I have one step colder plugs that I gapped them to .023 before installing. When I took them out for the compression test I measure them at .028.. wtf?? why would they change? I gapped them to .022 and my car is running SOO much better. no more spark blowout and it feels peppy again. I am wondering if I got carbon buildup from it not firing good for a while...
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 09:13 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by evolve_VIII
Knock would cause the top of the pistons to come apart, the combustion chamber to damage. Usually rings wearing out is from running rich. The extra fuel washes the oil off of the cylinder walls and causes the rings contacting metal to metal and hardens them.
If you have a bad or plugged injector in a cylinder causing it to run lean you will find compression down in that cylinder.
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