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Oil pump modifications for big horsepower and high revs

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Old Mar 7, 2014 | 12:43 PM
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Oil pump modifications for big horsepower and high revs

It doesn't seem to be public knowledge or common knowledge, but I'm curious who does what? Are the straight cut gears the only way to go? Can the 90 DSM oil pump gears work in an evo oil pump? Do the helical gears still work fine at 9000+ rpm and 800+hp?

Does anyone do any other modifications to the oil pump itself?

Do evos port the OFH like DSMs?

I did a bunch of searching and didn't find any decent information, not sure if it isn't out there or my search terms weren't proper

Thanks guys
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Old Mar 9, 2014 | 08:33 PM
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X2
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Old Jun 8, 2015 | 03:55 PM
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Bumping this because I too am curious as to what people are doing. Do the straight cut oil pump gears work for the evo oil pump? What other modificationa are suggested for 9k rpm and high hp evos?

Last edited by car_nut15; Jun 8, 2015 at 07:00 PM.
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 07:12 PM
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Bump im all so interested
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 06:10 AM
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https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ve...pump-gear.html
Here is one option
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by IzzyRS
I was looking into this. seems like a good option other than its on backorder for a while and its pretty pricey.
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 09:07 AM
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straight cut gears do nothing but ad noise. side load on gears is not the problem. its the small shaft on oil pump drive that gets side loaded into the input housing. stiff valve springs. lightweight clutch assemblies, over tightened belts and possibly kevlar belts are most of the problem. a good polish and debur of the pump is about the best thing out to prevent. machined down balance shaft is waste of money as well and does zero to prevent.
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 94AWDcoupe
straight cut gears do nothing but ad noise. side load on gears is not the problem. its the small shaft on oil pump drive that gets side loaded into the input housing. stiff valve springs. lightweight clutch assemblies, over tightened belts and possibly kevlar belts are most of the problem. a good polish and debur of the pump is about the best thing out to prevent. machined down balance shaft is waste of money as well and does zero to prevent.
I agree
Also I know it's common knowledge people also remove to balance shaft and try to find solutions to help eliminate the stub shaft options to get the most out of their oil pump (and assembly). However over time its been found out that it does cause premature wear with motor and clutch assemblies.

The stock oil pump is really good
I've taken it that high on previous Evos
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 12:39 PM
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Also if your really going to get on it at 9k all day
You'd probably want to run a dry sump
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by SR Concepts
Also if your really going to get on it at 9k all day
You'd probably want to run a dry sump
My car is primarily street driven and see's the drag strip a couple times a year. A dry sump is out of the question for me.

So are you saying the oil pump won't hold up to 9k rpm pulls for very long?

Last edited by car_nut15; Jun 10, 2015 at 07:27 PM.
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 94AWDcoupe
straight cut gears do nothing but ad noise. side load on gears is not the problem. its the small shaft on oil pump drive that gets side loaded into the input housing. stiff valve springs. lightweight clutch assemblies, over tightened belts and possibly kevlar belts are most of the problem. a good polish and debur of the pump is about the best thing out to prevent. machined down balance shaft is waste of money as well and does zero to prevent.
I've never had an oil pump failure, but with all the talk around about machined down balance shafts and straight cut gears, I always assumed the pump failures occurred at the drive shaft/balance shaft and not the drive shaft. Is this not the case normally?
Curious about the lightweight clutch assembly? Harmonics?
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by car_nut15
My car is primarily street driven and see's the drag strip a couple times a year. A dry sump is out of the question for me.

So are you saying the oil pump won't hold up to 9k rpm pulls for very long?
No
What I'm saying is for your driving the stock pump is fine for 9k

People that source alternate oil pumps are usually those at sustained 9k+ revs
Which is why I suggested previously that the stock unit is fine

I've been well above your revs an hp with a stock unit and had no failures
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 11:16 PM
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What are your guys thoughts on baffling the oil pan specifically around the pickup tube? Is something like the Buschur modified oil pan worth the money?
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 11:19 PM
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Baffling the pan and getting a crank scraper are worth it

But Buschur makes a good pan!

Your choice really
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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by SR Concepts
Baffling the pan and getting a crank scraper are worth it

But Buschur makes a good pan!

Your choice really
Thanks for the response. Buschur baffled pan and cosworth crank scraper ordered. Those combined with the Kiggly HLA should be good for what I need!
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