Did you check for Vaccum leaks also... That could cause your low idle also the iac are funny mines was doing the same thing i took it out and cleaned it put it back and it was fine... Check for leaks at the throttle body... And if you wanna reset the Ecu disconnect the negative battery terminal and pump the brake pedal 10 times

 

Everything in the interior is powered except the climate control lighting but i think the bulbs are burnt out. As for the plugs I just changed them less then 2000 miles ago and they were working good before i changed the IAC valve. I also put in a new battery less than a month ago. The pervious owner told me the starter was changed out last year. I'm thinking maybe TB shaft seals could have gone bad. Already ordered new ones hopefully that fixes the issue.

 

Planning on replacing TB shaft seals this week when they get here. Wouldn't resetting the ecu delete the tune though?

 

No it will not erase the tune. No need to pump the brakes.

 

Good luck, let us now if the latest fix fixes the issue!

 

alright haven't changed the TB shaft seals yet but tried to start it again today. I had to keep my foot on the gas but it started but barely and as soon as I let my foot off the gas it died. I ended up flooding it so I'm gonna wait and try again tomorrow to start and let it run for awhile. Also changed the ignition coil fuse. So I'll see if that helps.

 

If you haven't yet, try checking the timing and timing belt teeth. The timing being off can cause weird idle and can lead to catastrophic failure.

 

how would I go about checking that?

 

Try cleaning out the throttle body. It might be because of carbon build up around the opening. I've had this type of problem with my 4 and now it's all good.

 

Already cleaned out Throttle body and it didn't help

 

Found out that my fuel pump went bad. I had a walbro 255. SO I got another one and swapped them out. Car started right up but as I let it run and went to drive its starting to stall alot. Only when I put it in neutral or push the clutch in. Any thoughts? Oh also I was sitting in line for a car wash and my temp gauge went over the hot mark. didn't seem like it was running any differently. Any thoughts on that also?

 

If the car starts okay cold, but not in closed loop, then it's probably a sensor. A defective or unplugged MAF will do that. That's just one of the things that could be wrong.
If you are overheating and running poorly, it could be a temp sensor.
Again, it could be a lot of things. It's hard to diagnose via internet.

 

I remember my first turbo car and I had the worst idle issues. Turns out it was a boost look as well as the turbo going bad.

 

SO as I said before putting in the new fuel pump fixed the not starting issue. As for the stalling issue it seems like it worked itself out. Probably just air pockets in the fuel line that worked themselves out. As for the overheating issue. Seemed like it was a stuck thermostat and a cracked radiator on the top. Put in a mishimoto evo 6 rad and racing thermostat to fix that (before and after pic below). Keeps it nice and cool now. Replaced the TB shaft seals with some works high pressure shaft seals. Bit of a pain to get them in but I did. Car died a day later on the road. Turned out my coupler to the Throttle body popped off. Ever since I put the new seals in it felt like it was way under power. Took it to a performance shop that I was going to have it tuned to have them look at it before it was tuned and they told me that my bov was broken I had a forge rs bov that was put in by the previous owner and I looked it up and said it was rated for up to 30psi. Current Max psi was set at 16 pounds by the previous tune, and since I put the new seals in I haven't gone full WOT. The highest my boost gauge was at has been 5 pounds. What would cause it to break? At least I can still drive it lol

 

but do NOT clean the black coating on the inside of the TB. it's there to seal the air out while shut and your car will run like crap if you take it off. it looks like sludge, but it's actually a sealant.

also, use a regular-temp thermostat. the aftermarket ones that run cooler don't let the car quite get to operating temp and keeps putting the car into open loop. it's a mess.

as for all this stuff going wrong on your car: have you seen all these broken parts? how much do you trust the shop?