If you're talking about the turbine side and compressor side, yes, yes they do. There should be a little nub on the turbine side that fits into a hole on the compressor side so you know it's clocked correctly. If you don't have the turbo clocked correctly, you're gonna have issues lining everything up when you go to reinstall.

Attach your WGA back on the turbo and see if it's holding the flapper in the open position.

 

It only fits one way. At least it should. There is a little tit on the exhaust housing that fits into a tiny hole in the center housing so that the two mating surfaces can only be clocked in one orientation. Or is the little titty on the center sections mating surface

Now that little titty can on occasion bust off. As it is just a tiny diameter pin(maybe 1/16"). But still it is not hard to figure how the turbine housing should be clocked....even w/o that locating pin.

 

What O2 dump is on there? Even if you completely removed the flapper valve or wired it open you should still be seeing a certain minimal manifold boost pressure. Base pressure on a stock IX turbo with a stock MHI actuator should be about 9-11#. W/O a flapper valve you should be seeing 3-5# as an absolute minimum I would think.

 

Sorry repeat post

 

I never removed the turbine from the compressor housing I only took the 10.5 hot side off.
I'm just curious if the hot side has to be at a certain orientation with the turbine / compressor side.

Yes the Wga would appear to be holding the flapper arm open...

 

As mentioned above, yes it goes on a certain way. There is a dowel pin on the rotating assembly that fits into a hole on the turbine housing or maybe it's the other way around. Either way there is a pin that sits in a hole.If it wasn't lined up you wouldn't have been able to get clamp back on.
I suppose its possible it could be broken off, etc.
But would the wga line up if it weren't right?
You can't move the wga arm by hand, right? It's tight and pulling the flapper open?

 

Any pics or video?

 

The 10.5 hotside is the turbine housing.

The WGA should be forcing the flapper closed. If it's being held open that's likely your problem.

As I've said already (and others as well) it only goes on one way unless the pin is broken. If the pin is broken you'll need to align it properly yourself.

 

I guess if the mini dowel pin is missing it could possibly line up any direction one would chose, I'm not sure honestly.
As for the OEM Wga it is very tight and I can only actuate it once I have it in my vice on my bench.
I'm assuming that the hotside rolled a certain degree towards the radiator and this is causing my problem. Even when I shortened the factory Wga all the way it would appear as though it is holding the Wga flapper enough to make it dump to atmosphere while idling.

 

Again, pics or video would help immensely.

Do you have access to an air compressor? If so, you can simulate boost to the actuator to see if the arm moves. Then you know it's working.

Are you sure you have the right wga? Sounds like the arm is too long.

When you make the WGA move , you are pulling the arm out, right? Just checking.

 

I just repositioned the turbo, it would appear as if though the mini dowel pin is missing on my turbo. So I took the exhaust manifold off and loosened the v band clamp that holds the compressor side to the hot side and I saw a tiny hole in the 10.5 where a mini dowel pin would go. I checked and felt the turbo side but didn't see or feel a dowel pin. So I put the hot side back on loosely and then installed the Wga for a rough figment check. I definitely made progress in terms of clocking the hot side towards the cylinder head more than it previously was. I got it in a position where I felt comfortable with it and adjusted the Wga accordingly. I reassembled the car and started it up and the O2 dump leak problem is 99% better than what it was. I put my hand under the car and still felt the dump leaking slightly. The vaccum on the boost gauge was 8 on a cold start. And I have a cel for an egr I'm assuming because 1 of the nipples broke off. The replacement should be here this week sometime.

 

This has happened to me before as it has to you. I had the dowel pin on the turbine housing break off once. But, it isn't a biggie when you break it down and analyze it. There is only one way it can go back together....if you think about it. Duh.???

It is no big deal and if you are missing the dowel pin there it is no need to obtain and install a new one. I can explain to you how to do it. This is a simple task.

The hole on the mating surface of the center section that recieves the dowel pin on the mating surface of the turbine housing has not moved or rotated. The turbine housing has only one way that it can bolt up to the exhaust manifold....so the specific alignment of the the dowel pin and its receiving hole only mate in one way. So don't get your panties all bunched up.

There are 360* in a circle. The exact specific circumferential location of that dowel pin on the circular mating surface of the turbine housing will never vary being that it is predetermined because the turbine housing only bolts up one way to the exhaust manifold flange. So the clocking of the dowel pin is predetermined once the turbine housing is bolted up to the exhaust manifold....capisce?

The hole on the center section which receives the dowel pin is already located in its specific clocking because the center section is fixed in place by the oil drain and feed line flanges as well as being c-clamped onto the compressor housing

I bought a used Red once that had a broken dowel pin. At 1st it worried me....but in the final analysis, it is no biggie. There is only one way that it all fits together.

 

cliff notes: put a mark, where you can see it, where the pin was. line it up to the hole. put the clamp on.
it doesn't get much easier.

if your turbo was clocked so far out of whack, how did you get the oil and water lines to fit right???

 

I will use my air compressor to simulate and report back...
It appears to be an OEM 9 Wga... when I actuate the Wga I am pulling the arm out, I can feel the air come out of it...

 

[QUOTE=kaj;11506671]cliff notes: put a mark, where you can see it, where the pin was. line it up to the hole. put the clamp on.
it doesn't get much easier. ..../QUOTE]
Kaj is right. It is that simple.