91mm02Z28

iTrader: (1)

I just got this car yesterday, and have been burning the search up trying to figure out what's wrong with the ACD lights/button. Most of the time, all 3 lights are lit, and button unresponsive. BUT....today, 4 different times the button functioned normally and the corresponding light was lit. Each time, this was after shutting the car off for several minutes(store run, gas, etc) and then starting back up again. This seems to be a slightly different issue than any I've found. I'm going to really go over it tomorrow, and just wanted to check to see if anyone had a similar ACD issue and could give me a hint or clue of where to look other than the obvious. Thanks in advance guys.

escodotcarter

iTrader: (16)

The pump will most likely need a rebuild. If you know someone that has evoscan and a tactrix cable you can get the error codes to see exactly what it is. Does the pump prime at all? fluid going down in the reservoir?

Rolston12

iTrader: (1)

Same issue here all three lights are on. After it sits awhile the lights will act normal but can never here the pump kicking on but notice when i get over 40 it will throw all lights. ID see if your pump is kicking on. Try and ohm out the wires to the pump to see if you have a open somewhere. The relay is on the fire wall passenger side check if that has power as well

drive955i

iTrader: (6)

If I remember correctly, you can force the pump to run by hitting the gas pedal several times just after turning the ignition on (don't remember how many times. Somebody with better recollection care to elaborate?) without starting the engine. Also, there's a way to get the system to tell you what faults are stored without a scanner, but I don't remember the steps required. I remember searching the inter webs and finding it years ago. The ACD lights will blink the corresponding codes stored. You have to count the number of blinks to decipher the fault type. I'll scour the web and if I find it I will post it up. But yeah, it's likely the pump. It's exposed to the elements and gets pretty corroded where the electric motor is secured to the hydraulic pump. Moisture gets in there and wreaks havoc.

drive955i

iTrader: (6)

Seems holding the accelerator pedal down when turning the ignition on will force the ACD pump to run, for appx. 30 seconds. You have to short (jump) pins 1&4 on you OBD port, then turn on the ignition, and watch the ACD lights. It will blink long, then short blinks. The long blinks correspond to the first digit of the code, and the short blinks for the second. For example, four long blinks followed by five short blinks means fault 45 is stored. As far as the fault table, I don't have that, but I'm sure that can be easily found as well.

91mm02Z28

iTrader: (1)

Ok, turning the ignition on and going WOT, the pump cuts on and runs. The reservoir has fluid to the "min" line. I guess my next step is to jump the pins to get any codes stored. Thanks for the help guys.

kikiturbo

the pump should start running and gradually slow down as the pressure builds.. if it just runs at constant RPM then it is corroded and needs an overhaul.

91mm02Z28

iTrader: (1)

That's the issue I believe. It runs, but never seems like there's a load on the pump motor. The ACD rebuild page I found seems to be dead. Does anyone still sell the kits?

Acuality

iTrader: (1)

They are available on ebay by a Canadian seller. I bought one recently. However my entire housing was cracked and the solenoid broke off trying to open it. Anyways check ebay they are good kits. YouTube has video on how to do it

91mm02Z28

iTrader: (1)

Are the "premium" kits worth the extra money? or will the basic rebuild kit suffice. I don't mind spending the money, just rather not waste it if not needed.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/PREMIUM-Mits...VTfBMb&vxp=mtr

Acuality

iTrader: (1)

I bought the premium kit because I thought why not..just do it once and the cost isn't much. From what I understand the only difference is the main motor bearing is supposedly higher quality in the premium kit. When rebuilding you may not even need to change the motor bearing it's more just a do it while you're in there thing. The pump plate is what causes the actual issue it gets corroded.

91mm02Z28

iTrader: (1)

Cool, I'm ordering it today. Those 3 lights being on bug me to death.