BISS Screw Actuator in EVOscan revealing an Issue, HELP, Kind of an Emergency.
Jun 12, 2016, 02:25 AM
#1
BISS Screw Actuator in EVOscan revealing an Issue, HELP, Kind of an Emergency.
Hi, Thanks to anyone in advance,
Here is my issue. Been working with Throttle Body's for the last week or two. Get both Throttle BOdy's dialed in and adjusted manually prior to throwing the BISS actuator. Most of the time, I was able to activate the actuator, and RPM's would not move, maybe 100 RPM's, but virtually not at all. This suggest that the BISS screw is set properly.
I can then drive the car fine, on either Throttle Body. I can shut it off right after setting it, and restart, no issues. Then if I drive it for a while, to check it out, and see if things are ok, idle, drive, stopping, etc. THings go fine. Shut it off for 20 minutes, try to restart, and the car struggles to get to 750 RPM's and struggles for a while to catch the IDLE that was just set and worked great. Throw the Actuator again, and it kills the car. SOmetimes I can get it hold 500 RPM's but that is hard on the car.
THis issue started out of the blue, made adjustments to my stock TB to get it where it should, threw the actuator several times like I said with no serious drop down. When the issue first arose, it would drop the car to 600 RPM's. Then after about 3-4 minutes, car would idle up like it should and RPM's were where they were set. Deactivate the actuator, and the RPM's would raise maybe 100 or so. Throw it again, and everything would be stable. Next day, car would start fine, drive it around after warming it up, get it good and hot, check the idle again by throwing the actuator, and it would drop down again. Check things out, deactivate the actuator, and car would idle up. Give it a while, throw the actuator again, and no issue.
Now, I have rebuilt my stock TB, and tried my aftermarket TB. GEt both dialed in again, and no matter what I do during setup and adjustment, actuator acts fine, and adjustments look good in logs. Drive it at all, and then check the actuator again, and idle drops to 600 rpm's on the stock, and damn near kills the aftermarket.
This issue seems to be progressively getting worse. No additional adjustments made to TB and it does this drop. I have changed IAC, TPS, etc. Verified all the usual settings. No vacuum leaks, and Fuel Trims are in check.
I am thinking some kind of relay or short somewhere, but have no idea where to look.
I have verified all grounds are good.
WOrthy of note, car idled fine for a week or two, and the actuator was tested with no issues. This sudden issue when I throw it now in the last week or so, has progressively gotten worse.
Please help,
Thanks in advance.
Here is my issue. Been working with Throttle Body's for the last week or two. Get both Throttle BOdy's dialed in and adjusted manually prior to throwing the BISS actuator. Most of the time, I was able to activate the actuator, and RPM's would not move, maybe 100 RPM's, but virtually not at all. This suggest that the BISS screw is set properly.
I can then drive the car fine, on either Throttle Body. I can shut it off right after setting it, and restart, no issues. Then if I drive it for a while, to check it out, and see if things are ok, idle, drive, stopping, etc. THings go fine. Shut it off for 20 minutes, try to restart, and the car struggles to get to 750 RPM's and struggles for a while to catch the IDLE that was just set and worked great. Throw the Actuator again, and it kills the car. SOmetimes I can get it hold 500 RPM's but that is hard on the car.
THis issue started out of the blue, made adjustments to my stock TB to get it where it should, threw the actuator several times like I said with no serious drop down. When the issue first arose, it would drop the car to 600 RPM's. Then after about 3-4 minutes, car would idle up like it should and RPM's were where they were set. Deactivate the actuator, and the RPM's would raise maybe 100 or so. Throw it again, and everything would be stable. Next day, car would start fine, drive it around after warming it up, get it good and hot, check the idle again by throwing the actuator, and it would drop down again. Check things out, deactivate the actuator, and car would idle up. Give it a while, throw the actuator again, and no issue.
Now, I have rebuilt my stock TB, and tried my aftermarket TB. GEt both dialed in again, and no matter what I do during setup and adjustment, actuator acts fine, and adjustments look good in logs. Drive it at all, and then check the actuator again, and idle drops to 600 rpm's on the stock, and damn near kills the aftermarket.
This issue seems to be progressively getting worse. No additional adjustments made to TB and it does this drop. I have changed IAC, TPS, etc. Verified all the usual settings. No vacuum leaks, and Fuel Trims are in check.
I am thinking some kind of relay or short somewhere, but have no idea where to look.
I have verified all grounds are good.
WOrthy of note, car idled fine for a week or two, and the actuator was tested with no issues. This sudden issue when I throw it now in the last week or so, has progressively gotten worse.
Please help,
Thanks in advance.
Jun 12, 2016, 11:16 AM
#4
Are you using the same IAC on both throttle bodies?
I thought RPM are supposed to drop to half of normal when you actuate the BISS? It's been a while, so I could be off.
When rebuilding the TB, did you leave all the sealant on the intake side of the butterfly?
Thanks guys.
Jun 12, 2016, 11:22 AM
#5
I thought you set the BISS to half your desired RPM, but I could be wrong.
The black goop on the inside of the TB is actually a sealant and has to stay. If not, you will have a ton of of air passing through that you can't control.
It would have looked like carbon build up and been right where the butterfly touches, on the IM side. It also would have taken some effort to take off.
If you took it off, you will want to reapply asap. 3m makes some good stuff. I can get a picture of mine, if you need it for reference.
The black goop on the inside of the TB is actually a sealant and has to stay. If not, you will have a ton of of air passing through that you can't control.
It would have looked like carbon build up and been right where the butterfly touches, on the IM side. It also would have taken some effort to take off.
If you took it off, you will want to reapply asap. 3m makes some good stuff. I can get a picture of mine, if you need it for reference.
Jun 12, 2016, 09:31 PM
#6
It would have looked like carbon build up and been right where the butterfly touches, on the IM side. It also would have taken some effort to take off.
If you took it off, you will want to reapply asap
If you took it off, you will want to reapply asap
Has anyone ever had weird issues like this and come to find there alternator and/or voltage regulator is taking a dive. I got creative after hours of testing and adjusting to no end, with low RPM's actuator active or not. I finally unplugged the alternator, and rpms rose to the 900 or so they should be at roughly. Plug alternator back in and it almost kills the car in actuator mode or regular. Logs show voltage of battery between 13.6 and 14.4V. SO I would have never had an idea that my alternator might be going out. Also, it is a 160 amp that are impossible to find anymore. I'v been told by very reputable sources that this can lead to all sorts of issues.
Remember, I have had these three issues, repeatedly since I brought my car back from the dead after the last 4 years of rebuild.
Starting: Every warm start was more than just warm start issues discussed here. The car would start, idle up slowly to 1000 rpms, and then AFR gauge would go completely lean, and would stay like this for a random amount of time, sounding like it was struggling to idle like that, never was the same, either way, after this it would just come to life, idle up like it was going through warm up mode, and then settle back down and sound completely fine.
Every now and again, would throw the Biss Actuator to check idle settings if I had made adjustments in the rom, and it would low idle, even though I had set the BISS to 900. It would idle rough at 600 RPM's for easly 3-4 minutes, and then out of nowhere, come to life, idle up, and then settle back down to the 900 that I had set.
During my testing of both throttle bodies yesterday, it ran like crap, would dip down in actuator mode, and no adjustment woud change anything. Then randomly out of the blue, car comes alive, and allows me to tune both TB's after 20-30 minutes of it idling kind of crappy. During this time if I threw the BISS, it would idle down to 500 rpms or die. Again no adjustment would let me save it.
Also, during this crappy period, with trying every adjustment to BISS, car may have ran at 900-1000 rpms, but sounded like it was bogged down or sputtering like voltage or coils were not firing right, or not enough charge.
Once I did finally get it adjusted like I said, drove it around for atleast 2 hours with various idle times. Shut car off after being super warm, let sit for 30 minutes maybe, and were back to crappy idle, struggle to start, struggle to run, throw actuator and it almost dies, etc.
Today, after 8 hours of playing with both TB's, car will not idle correct at all. Won't let me activate the actuator with out dying, no adjustments can be made to save it or get it to idle. It runs like I just described, sputtering, struggling to maintain 900 rpm's if it gets there, sound like its very low on voltage to the coils, there getting extremely hot, all around just crappy.
Got creative, after looking under every bolt in the engine bay... unplugged the alternator, car idled up, was only running on 12v but idled. Logs showed the alternator was still charging even though I unplugged the wire harness to what I believe is the regulator in the Alt. And it would even let me throw the actuator. Plug alternator back in, and car plunges to no recovery or very low RPM's.
What am I looking at here?
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Jun 13, 2016, 12:08 PM
#8
You are looking at a complex problem that can only be solved one logical step at a time. Please help us by posting a log of RPM, AFR, O2 feedback, LTFT Low, LTFT mid, ISC steps, IPW, 2-byte Airflow Hz, and Battery voltage, so we can see what is going on at idle, try to help you diagnose the problem, and then select a way for you to try to fix it.
Jun 14, 2016, 12:50 AM
#9
Ok, Thank you, here is the current update, and I will post data from logs shortly.
So what is actually going on when the actuator is pushed? I know it drops the ISC steps or freezes them. But what else is the ECU actually doing to the car. Might help in troubleshooting.
Spent all day, literally, on the car, sun up to sundown.
Worthy of note: When I first tried to start the car today, while ignition was on, but not started, the CEL flashed rapidly. Car started, but would not rev past 3K. I only started it to put it back in position to work on it. SHut it off an went about my testing for the day. When I started it later, no issues like I just described.
Went through the entire EGR System. Checked Valve, cleaned, tested. Checked Solenoid, tested. Went through all hoses, tested, zip tied. No Change.
Replaced MAP sensor with new Omni 4 Bar. No change.
Rechecked IAC connector and IAC motor. Connector tested 12v at 3 locations on the plug, this while car running, unplugged from IAC.
Started on electrical checking. Checked every earth ground in the engine bay, and in the cabin.
Checked engine coils while running, signal or input tested at 12v or running voltage.
Fuel pump issue: Tested with key on, not started, voltage tested at 5.85 V. Started car, fuel pump circuit tests at 7.9V. Started checking fuel electrical system.
Ignition 20 amp fuse in fuse panel under hood, good. Only supplies 12v when car is cranking, not when car is in on position, not started.
Checked Relay 3, while car is in on position, not started and while running, it is only getting 6V.
Fuel Pump fuse under dash, 7.5 amp fuse, tested good.
Checked Relays 1 and 2 under dash. Both terminals tested while in on position not started at .04V. Both relays tested at 126 ohms from copper colored leads. Silver leads were dead. Looking at how they plug in, that looks to be terminals 2 and 4.
Tried switching the 2 fuel pump relays around robin with the IC sprayer relay that sits between them, they are all the same relay. No change. Side Note: I have not heard these relays switching like I used to while driving. I haven’t heard them in the last couple of weeks. I can usually hear the switching when cruising on the highway to check cruise trims.
I can get these 2 relays tomorrow at the parts store to check and see if they are actually good.
Checked all connections to this fuse panel, all plugs look tight.
Checked ECM under glove box passenger side, all connections solid. Forgot to test the pin out for the FR Alternator signal voltage. What should voltage be?
I can also get an ignition for in the steering column tomorrow. Was thinking that may be an issue also.
Here is the Data for logs after idling for ever. It struggled to get there, but idled at 950 ish. Doesn't sound like it used to at idle, kind of muffled, and seems off.
This good data info. My log is a mile long.
RPMs - at start, Slow to rise from 400 RPM's struggles for about 1-2 minutes, gets to 950 RPM's.
AFR 14.5 to 15.5 if it swings wildly. But mostly it around 14.7 to 15.2.
When I throw actuator, it slowly richens to the point of almost dying, or saves itself and runs around 13.5 to 14.4.
Load is at 35 roughly
Airflow hover at 40 HZ +/- 2HZ
LTFT low is +/- 2%
LTFT mis is +/- 3%
O2 Feedback right after starting is +11. Once it gets settled with the rise of RPM's it's in check with +/- 2%.
ISC Steps want to hang around 65 +, but the few times the car comes alive and actually lets me set the idle and BISS screw, I set it for 15 at the lowest. That day I was talking about, where I was able to drive it for a couple of hours, logs showed steps running 12 to 30 varying around of course depending on demand. Now no matter what I do, the lowest they go is 55.
IPW is 1.536 to 1.792
Injector Duty Cycle is 1.28 to 1.44
Battery, 14.1 cold start, 13.8 +/-.3v while running for a period of time.
Dwell hovers around 3.584
This does look good, but you should hear the car.
EDIT 6/14/16 morning: Made some progress. Purchased new Relays for Fuel Pump both 1 and 2 for under dash.
New relays, no difference.
Changed fuse under dash per recommendation from reliable source, 7.5 amp fuse to 15 amp fuse.
Tested fuse position, got 12v.
Tested relay 1 with key on, 12v.
Tested Relay 2 with Key on, 12v.
Tested fuel pump with ignition on, no crank, got these wires:
White wire to ground, no voltage.
Big Black wire to ground, no voltage.
White wire to big black wire, no voltage.
Little black wire 1 to ground, no voltage.
Little black wire 2 to ground, no voltage.
White wire to little black wire 1, 5v.
White wire to little black wire 2, no volts.
Tested fuel pump during cranking:
White wire to ground, 12v
White wire to Big Black wire, 12V
Tested fuel pump right after cranking while in high-speed mode, voltage tested at these volts for 1.5 sec. Note: This is what you have set in the rom:
White wire to ground, 12v
White wire to Big Black wire, 12V
Tested fuel pump right after highs-speed mode, voltage dropped quickly to 8.2v.
Tested fuel pump after 10 min of running. Voltage maintaining 8.1V.
Went through and double checked ohms and voltage of vacuum solenoids for Purge, FPR, and EGR. All tested within 30 ohms.
After all this, I pulled the Trims fuse for fuel, ISCV, and anything else. Let car sit for a bit. Took this opportunity to un-preload the BOV which I did about 2 weeks ago, and I pulled spark plugs. Found something interesting there. Cylinder 1 and 2 looked brownish black, a little buildup, but nothing extreme, looked like they should. Cylinder 3 and 4 were interesting. Those spark plugs were still white at the tip, with a very small 2mm skunk stripe of brown down the tip. Metal threads were still silver. Ground piece attached to threads that completes the ark, still silver… Unfortunately I am not sure what this means. At first I thought I had a dead coil, but 3 and 4 are not controlled by the same coil. 2 and 3 are controlled by a coil, and 1 and 4 are controlled by a coil, so I am at a loss. Either way, changed spark plugs to IW24 Denso’s. Put my stock coils back on. Put trim fuse back in. Pulled the IAC plug and left it hanging. Started car, to run it through it’s learning phase of injector cycles, and step cycles. Logged it. Started up with a little bit of low idle, but quickly picked up. Then it idled pretty good. About 10 minutes in, ECU started telling the Steps to drop, and I could watch it in the log, thought the IAC was unplugged. I let it get all the way to 7, and plugged the IAC back in. Mind you, no actuator was thrown. Logs showed the car was idling like it should, with steps raising to 12, then back down to 11, then 10, then 8, then 7, stayed at 7 for a few, then rose back to 10, then 11, then hovered at 10-11. Stayed that ways for about 5 minutes till I shut it off. Swapped coil’s on the motor, and went to restart, and car ran poopy again. Steps in log in the high 70’s, would only come down to 65 or so, and then rise back up. Not sure if it is the coils, or my phantom issue resurfaced again.
Edit 6/14/16 evening:
So the stock coils actually don’t change anything, it runs the same. I am able to however get it to run like it should, with IAC steps logging like they should, repeatable 3 times now. However, so far, when I shut off the car, it goes back to crap. This is with either coils, and either TB.
If I pull the 20 amp fuse that resets all the learn data, and leave it out for a good 10-20 minutes, as well as disconnect the IAC for the same amount of time, I get these results.
Plug in the 20 amp fuse and leave IAC unplugged. Start car, and let it idle. I watch the steps in the log start around 80 and climb to 100 in the first 5 minutes. In the second five minutes, the steps decrease between 20 or 30 down to 70, then climb back up for that period of time. After about 10 minutes of idling with the IAC unplugged still, the ECU starts dropping steps fast. The car actually idles up to about 1300 RPMS, and slowly tapers down along with the steps. In the next 5 minutes, the steps drop to about 15 and hover in the ECU, and logs. They will climb 2-3 steps, and drop 2-3 steps sticking around 15 steps. This suggest BISS on both TB’s is set correctly, cause I haven’t changed them throughout the testing phase since I was first able to get it to run stable the other day. At this point I plug the IAC in. In the logs, you can see it, steps will rise a little, then drop back down and hang around 15 again. I can idle for any amount of time and they seem to stay there.
I logged this entire process, it is the log named idle.
I then drove around town at slow speed for a while, and watch the steps, they climbed a little, but dropped right back down to the set amount when I stopped at stop lights, or pulled over to check idle.
I also drove on the freeway for a cruise, and logged them as well. Same thing, steps seem to be in check. Log named cruise.
I then drove home, and unfortunately had to shut off the car. So won’t know if the settings stayed till the morning.
I did however notice something else. Don’t know if my evoscan formula for the IDLE Position Switch is correct, took it off the forum, but again not sure. Either way, this switch did not seem to represent IDLE. It was on when cruising at 80 miles an hour. It was off when sitting at a light in town. It would randomly change, and not act like it should. Poses a question. If Evoscan is correct, then the car doesn’t know when it is in idle… What is the mechanical switch that this data item is reading. Is that something that could represent why the car is acting crazy?
I have recollection of seeing this switch at 0 most of the time at idle over the last week. From my understanding it should be at 1 while at idle.
If it is directly related to the TPS, then settings for Stock TB are at 11.5, and for Skunk2 TB are at 13.3. I read that as long as it is below 15 we are good….
Edit 6/15/16 morning:
Started car this morning, ran like crap, but Steps were on point. MAF air temp was 15 C, Coolant temp was 18 C, and EGR Temp was 232 C, this is right after cranking. Car started horribly. It has already been tune for cold starts too, and cold started prior to this issue. Either way, car idled like crap, and warmed up, but still had issues. Driving to the shop to get a couple things taken care of, and it stalled at every light. Good news is the ECU remembered step positions, and was running the proper steps all the way their. Pulled into the parking lot, and it idled at 15 steps, but very rough. With in a matter of 5 minutes, the ECU jumped it back up to 70 steps, and it stayed like that while we let it idle for 20 minutes, never coming back down. So I believe I eliminated a problem with the ecu in regards to sending step information to IAC, and that a fresh ignition was not resetting the learned data.
I have attached my current rom/map. ALL Idle and ISCV settings worked prior to my issues. They have not changed. My Tuner is the best, he wrote the book we all use.
Thanks for any help anyone.
So what is actually going on when the actuator is pushed? I know it drops the ISC steps or freezes them. But what else is the ECU actually doing to the car. Might help in troubleshooting.
Spent all day, literally, on the car, sun up to sundown.
Worthy of note: When I first tried to start the car today, while ignition was on, but not started, the CEL flashed rapidly. Car started, but would not rev past 3K. I only started it to put it back in position to work on it. SHut it off an went about my testing for the day. When I started it later, no issues like I just described.
Went through the entire EGR System. Checked Valve, cleaned, tested. Checked Solenoid, tested. Went through all hoses, tested, zip tied. No Change.
Replaced MAP sensor with new Omni 4 Bar. No change.
Rechecked IAC connector and IAC motor. Connector tested 12v at 3 locations on the plug, this while car running, unplugged from IAC.
Started on electrical checking. Checked every earth ground in the engine bay, and in the cabin.
Checked engine coils while running, signal or input tested at 12v or running voltage.
Fuel pump issue: Tested with key on, not started, voltage tested at 5.85 V. Started car, fuel pump circuit tests at 7.9V. Started checking fuel electrical system.
Ignition 20 amp fuse in fuse panel under hood, good. Only supplies 12v when car is cranking, not when car is in on position, not started.
Checked Relay 3, while car is in on position, not started and while running, it is only getting 6V.
Fuel Pump fuse under dash, 7.5 amp fuse, tested good.
Checked Relays 1 and 2 under dash. Both terminals tested while in on position not started at .04V. Both relays tested at 126 ohms from copper colored leads. Silver leads were dead. Looking at how they plug in, that looks to be terminals 2 and 4.
Tried switching the 2 fuel pump relays around robin with the IC sprayer relay that sits between them, they are all the same relay. No change. Side Note: I have not heard these relays switching like I used to while driving. I haven’t heard them in the last couple of weeks. I can usually hear the switching when cruising on the highway to check cruise trims.
I can get these 2 relays tomorrow at the parts store to check and see if they are actually good.
Checked all connections to this fuse panel, all plugs look tight.
Checked ECM under glove box passenger side, all connections solid. Forgot to test the pin out for the FR Alternator signal voltage. What should voltage be?
I can also get an ignition for in the steering column tomorrow. Was thinking that may be an issue also.
Here is the Data for logs after idling for ever. It struggled to get there, but idled at 950 ish. Doesn't sound like it used to at idle, kind of muffled, and seems off.
This good data info. My log is a mile long.
RPMs - at start, Slow to rise from 400 RPM's struggles for about 1-2 minutes, gets to 950 RPM's.
AFR 14.5 to 15.5 if it swings wildly. But mostly it around 14.7 to 15.2.
When I throw actuator, it slowly richens to the point of almost dying, or saves itself and runs around 13.5 to 14.4.
Load is at 35 roughly
Airflow hover at 40 HZ +/- 2HZ
LTFT low is +/- 2%
LTFT mis is +/- 3%
O2 Feedback right after starting is +11. Once it gets settled with the rise of RPM's it's in check with +/- 2%.
ISC Steps want to hang around 65 +, but the few times the car comes alive and actually lets me set the idle and BISS screw, I set it for 15 at the lowest. That day I was talking about, where I was able to drive it for a couple of hours, logs showed steps running 12 to 30 varying around of course depending on demand. Now no matter what I do, the lowest they go is 55.
IPW is 1.536 to 1.792
Injector Duty Cycle is 1.28 to 1.44
Battery, 14.1 cold start, 13.8 +/-.3v while running for a period of time.
Dwell hovers around 3.584
This does look good, but you should hear the car.
EDIT 6/14/16 morning: Made some progress. Purchased new Relays for Fuel Pump both 1 and 2 for under dash.
New relays, no difference.
Changed fuse under dash per recommendation from reliable source, 7.5 amp fuse to 15 amp fuse.
Tested fuse position, got 12v.
Tested relay 1 with key on, 12v.
Tested Relay 2 with Key on, 12v.
Tested fuel pump with ignition on, no crank, got these wires:
White wire to ground, no voltage.
Big Black wire to ground, no voltage.
White wire to big black wire, no voltage.
Little black wire 1 to ground, no voltage.
Little black wire 2 to ground, no voltage.
White wire to little black wire 1, 5v.
White wire to little black wire 2, no volts.
Tested fuel pump during cranking:
White wire to ground, 12v
White wire to Big Black wire, 12V
Tested fuel pump right after cranking while in high-speed mode, voltage tested at these volts for 1.5 sec. Note: This is what you have set in the rom:
White wire to ground, 12v
White wire to Big Black wire, 12V
Tested fuel pump right after highs-speed mode, voltage dropped quickly to 8.2v.
Tested fuel pump after 10 min of running. Voltage maintaining 8.1V.
Went through and double checked ohms and voltage of vacuum solenoids for Purge, FPR, and EGR. All tested within 30 ohms.
After all this, I pulled the Trims fuse for fuel, ISCV, and anything else. Let car sit for a bit. Took this opportunity to un-preload the BOV which I did about 2 weeks ago, and I pulled spark plugs. Found something interesting there. Cylinder 1 and 2 looked brownish black, a little buildup, but nothing extreme, looked like they should. Cylinder 3 and 4 were interesting. Those spark plugs were still white at the tip, with a very small 2mm skunk stripe of brown down the tip. Metal threads were still silver. Ground piece attached to threads that completes the ark, still silver… Unfortunately I am not sure what this means. At first I thought I had a dead coil, but 3 and 4 are not controlled by the same coil. 2 and 3 are controlled by a coil, and 1 and 4 are controlled by a coil, so I am at a loss. Either way, changed spark plugs to IW24 Denso’s. Put my stock coils back on. Put trim fuse back in. Pulled the IAC plug and left it hanging. Started car, to run it through it’s learning phase of injector cycles, and step cycles. Logged it. Started up with a little bit of low idle, but quickly picked up. Then it idled pretty good. About 10 minutes in, ECU started telling the Steps to drop, and I could watch it in the log, thought the IAC was unplugged. I let it get all the way to 7, and plugged the IAC back in. Mind you, no actuator was thrown. Logs showed the car was idling like it should, with steps raising to 12, then back down to 11, then 10, then 8, then 7, stayed at 7 for a few, then rose back to 10, then 11, then hovered at 10-11. Stayed that ways for about 5 minutes till I shut it off. Swapped coil’s on the motor, and went to restart, and car ran poopy again. Steps in log in the high 70’s, would only come down to 65 or so, and then rise back up. Not sure if it is the coils, or my phantom issue resurfaced again.
Edit 6/14/16 evening:
So the stock coils actually don’t change anything, it runs the same. I am able to however get it to run like it should, with IAC steps logging like they should, repeatable 3 times now. However, so far, when I shut off the car, it goes back to crap. This is with either coils, and either TB.
If I pull the 20 amp fuse that resets all the learn data, and leave it out for a good 10-20 minutes, as well as disconnect the IAC for the same amount of time, I get these results.
Plug in the 20 amp fuse and leave IAC unplugged. Start car, and let it idle. I watch the steps in the log start around 80 and climb to 100 in the first 5 minutes. In the second five minutes, the steps decrease between 20 or 30 down to 70, then climb back up for that period of time. After about 10 minutes of idling with the IAC unplugged still, the ECU starts dropping steps fast. The car actually idles up to about 1300 RPMS, and slowly tapers down along with the steps. In the next 5 minutes, the steps drop to about 15 and hover in the ECU, and logs. They will climb 2-3 steps, and drop 2-3 steps sticking around 15 steps. This suggest BISS on both TB’s is set correctly, cause I haven’t changed them throughout the testing phase since I was first able to get it to run stable the other day. At this point I plug the IAC in. In the logs, you can see it, steps will rise a little, then drop back down and hang around 15 again. I can idle for any amount of time and they seem to stay there.
I logged this entire process, it is the log named idle.
I then drove around town at slow speed for a while, and watch the steps, they climbed a little, but dropped right back down to the set amount when I stopped at stop lights, or pulled over to check idle.
I also drove on the freeway for a cruise, and logged them as well. Same thing, steps seem to be in check. Log named cruise.
I then drove home, and unfortunately had to shut off the car. So won’t know if the settings stayed till the morning.
I did however notice something else. Don’t know if my evoscan formula for the IDLE Position Switch is correct, took it off the forum, but again not sure. Either way, this switch did not seem to represent IDLE. It was on when cruising at 80 miles an hour. It was off when sitting at a light in town. It would randomly change, and not act like it should. Poses a question. If Evoscan is correct, then the car doesn’t know when it is in idle… What is the mechanical switch that this data item is reading. Is that something that could represent why the car is acting crazy?
I have recollection of seeing this switch at 0 most of the time at idle over the last week. From my understanding it should be at 1 while at idle.
If it is directly related to the TPS, then settings for Stock TB are at 11.5, and for Skunk2 TB are at 13.3. I read that as long as it is below 15 we are good….
Edit 6/15/16 morning:
Started car this morning, ran like crap, but Steps were on point. MAF air temp was 15 C, Coolant temp was 18 C, and EGR Temp was 232 C, this is right after cranking. Car started horribly. It has already been tune for cold starts too, and cold started prior to this issue. Either way, car idled like crap, and warmed up, but still had issues. Driving to the shop to get a couple things taken care of, and it stalled at every light. Good news is the ECU remembered step positions, and was running the proper steps all the way their. Pulled into the parking lot, and it idled at 15 steps, but very rough. With in a matter of 5 minutes, the ECU jumped it back up to 70 steps, and it stayed like that while we let it idle for 20 minutes, never coming back down. So I believe I eliminated a problem with the ecu in regards to sending step information to IAC, and that a fresh ignition was not resetting the learned data.
I have attached my current rom/map. ALL Idle and ISCV settings worked prior to my issues. They have not changed. My Tuner is the best, he wrote the book we all use.
Thanks for any help anyone.
Last edited by Raceghost; Jun 15, 2016 at 11:05 AM.
Jun 16, 2016, 01:00 PM
#15
Evolved Member
I did however notice something else. Don’t know if my evoscan formula for the IDLE Position Switch is correct, took it off the forum, but again not sure. Either way, this switch did not seem to represent IDLE. It was on when cruising at 80 miles an hour. It was off when sitting at a light in town. It would randomly change, and not act like it should. Poses a question. If Evoscan is correct, then the car doesn’t know when it is in idle… What is the mechanical switch that this data item is reading. Is that something that could represent why the car is acting crazy?
The idle switch is on the throttle body and contacts the throttle bellcrank if you have a 1992 DSM (a car I once owned) and when it messes up you get a 2000 rpm idle (I also had this happen). Anyway, don't know when the idle switch went away, maybe some early Evo had one.
The idle switch is on the throttle body and contacts the throttle bellcrank if you have a 1992 DSM (a car I once owned) and when it messes up you get a 2000 rpm idle (I also had this happen). Anyway, don't know when the idle switch went away, maybe some early Evo had one.