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Evo 4 won't start nor will fuel pump prime

Old Feb 27, 2017, 10:54 PM
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Evo 4 won't start nor will fuel pump prime

So let me being by saying bought the car after it sat for a year brought it come to fix the crank pulley. Put a fuel stabilizer in it. Car ran awesome but went to go start the car this morning and car just cranks and you couldn't hear the fuel pump prime. So I started trouble shooting. Checked the fuel pump relays and power to pump. Here's where it gets weird. The relay inside the dash has 12v going to it (no issues there) checked the one in the engine bay. It has no power what so ever. Checked fuel pump and it has 10.5v going to it I'm so confused can anyone help. I'm stumped
Old Feb 28, 2017, 04:21 PM
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Why don't you post your question on lancer register too? I think you will find other e4 owners in there.
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Tyrel Bursaw (Mar 1, 2017)
Old Mar 1, 2017, 01:48 AM
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Rom
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Does the Evo4 have the same low/high circuit as the later Evo's? That could explain the voltage at one relay, but not at another.

Anyway, if you have 10.5V at the pump, that should be enough to run the pump, even if it runs at a lower flow rate. If you can't hear it, the pump is probably toast... Other way to see if it's working is a fuel pressure tester on the rail, but if you usually hear it, and now you can't, and you have >10V voltage at the pump, then sounds to me like the pump has failed.

You can try hooking 12V directly to the pump and seeing if it runs to definitively test it too.

Oh, another trick is to whack the pump (from the outside) with a soft mallet a few times, and try starting it at the same time. It's an old trick mechanics use to coax a fuel pump back to life temporarily (I had to do it on my S13 all the time before I replaced the pump).

Thanks!

S.
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Tyrel Bursaw (Mar 1, 2017)
Old Mar 1, 2017, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Rom
Does the Evo4 have the same low/high circuit as the later Evo's? That could explain the voltage at one relay, but not at another.

Anyway, if you have 10.5V at the pump, that should be enough to run the pump, even if it runs at a lower flow rate. If you can't hear it, the pump is probably toast... Other way to see if it's working is a fuel pressure tester on the rail, but if you usually hear it, and now you can't, and you have >10V voltage at the pump, then sounds to me like the pump has failed.

You can try hooking 12V directly to the pump and seeing if it runs to definitively test it too.

Oh, another trick is to whack the pump (from the outside) with a soft mallet a few times, and try starting it at the same time. It's an old trick mechanics use to coax a fuel pump back to life temporarily (I had to do it on my S13 all the time before I replaced the pump).

Thanks!

S.
Hey thanks! I ended up fixing it last night by a fluke. Hardwired to a different battery and it Primed to it wasn't the pump so looked else where was feeling around the engine bay and my hand accidentally touched a fuse that someone wired in ended up being super hot so the fuse was blown and meleted 10$ later and a different fuse holder and fuse and it's back on the road
Old Jul 23, 2018, 02:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Tyrel Bursaw
Hey thanks! I ended up fixing it last night by a fluke. Hardwired to a different battery and it Primed to it wasn't the pump so looked else where was feeling around the engine bay and my hand accidentally touched a fuse that someone wired in ended up being super hot so the fuse was blown and meleted 10$ later and a different fuse holder and fuse and it's back on the road
hey buddy, bringing back an old thread. may I ask where is the fuse that you found was blown? I feel like same thing is happening to mine. Did you smell a little burnt scent of wire / plastic prior to your car won't start?
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